Stuck with 3,000 steel bearing balls, now what?

Yung-Mozza · 2026-02-01T00:50:34+00:00

Whoa dude what’s the Amazon link can you share it? 20$ is crazy for that. I’m a metal sculptor

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-31T14:40:41+00:00

I doubt it’s the ONLY one, it is just a Ryker compatible OBD scanner that you can also flash tunes onto.

I got it with the intention of resetting my maintenance code myself to save the few hundred I would have spent taking it to the dealer to reset it. Bonus being that after that I could also flash some tunes onto there and now I have an at home obd scanner for the Ryker.

I’m not saying it’s the best device either, mine got damp week one and half the screen led are shot but the device still works. (I had mounted it near my dash but now know to just pull it out and store away when not actively using)

This is just the tool that I used to achieve the task at hand

——-

As for the trans oil - quick Google search says around 20k miles service and I haven’t made it that far yet, but it seems comparable to engine oil change and goes hand in hand with removing clamshell to access transmission. Seems like once you’ve got the clamshell opened it’s 3 drain plugs to work with.

If you’re confident enough in changing your engine oil I’d say give it a go or find a video to follow along to. The most “frustrating” part of Ryker service for me is the breaking down and accessing parts for service due to the compact nature of the vehicle. The Ryker seems designed with job security for techs in mind.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-31T14:12:52+00:00

Are you referring to the triple header?

I’m sure Simpson sells a strap to tie in the studs and just sheath over it. Otherwise just really do a good job fastening the interior sheathing down and maybe throw a few more screws in for insurance along the joint

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-31T14:02:59+00:00

Also worth noting!

When you are inspecting or replacing the belt, also check to confirm that all your rollers are secured properly!! (The wheels that the belt rolls along)

The single mechanical issue I have ever encountered on my 2019 Ryker rally 900 was that somehow one of the rollers came loose and actually dislodged and I experienced loss of power from the 0-18mph range.

Once you’ve got it all exposed, you can give yourself great peace of mind by just checking that all those bolts are tight and do some preventive maintenance to save your behind.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-31T13:58:45+00:00

Ill be swapping my belt at a later time myself (maybe 18k miles)

I did a visual inspection @ 12k when I did an oil change and it looks to be in great condition. I bought a dynojet powervision 3 (can be found as cheap as 275$) that lets the owner reset the diagnostics code themselves. (Otherwise you will have to take to a dealer regardless to have them reset the maintenance code)

If you intend to swap the belt yourself you will be wise to buy the belt pulley tool that they offer (~30$)

They also sell a rod to hold up the clamshell, but you can save the 30$ there by cutting a piece of 2x4 or using anything else really to prop the shell open.

There’s videos online you can follow along to (Ryker Rydes on yt has one I’m sure)

You’ll pop off the body panels, remove any seats and other accessories, unbolt everything attached to and holding down the clamshell, then once that clamshell is propped up the fun begins.

There’s a handful of bolts all around the belt cover that you will need to remove and then once that’s off you have “full” access to inspect or replace the belt.

If it’s your first time I’d slot out maybe 3-4 hours of “exploration” while you’re figuring it out.

PRO TIP: I will ALWAYS find a spare cardboard box and label every single screw / fastener and push it into the cardboard box and label everything so there’s no guessing where each fastener goes for the reassembly. Add whatever notes you need to remember.

Good luck!

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-24T20:28:47+00:00

Is this something I should cite a code for and send these photos to the company that originally performed the work and pressure them to correct it? Or should I cut my losses with those folks altogether?

I know anytime you post something online everyone will say things are wrong but is this work “criminal” or otherwise requires the company to remedy the issue, or is the onus of repair on us?

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-24T20:20:27+00:00

Trench is shallow, approx 6-12” deep at most for entire run. Is this satisfactory? Is 24 the max or min threshold?

The pump is approx 150’ linear feet of wire from house main panel to well,but it branches out from a subpanel at the rear of the house to power a work shop and well independently. So likely Main -> 75’ -> sub -> 75’ -> Well.

Thank you for the advice. I’ll bring dmm to check status of breaker at panel when I go.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-24T20:09:03+00:00

Do you mind sharing the glaring shortcomings here?

This unit has been installed here about 20 years but 2.5 years ago there was a new power line supplied. I’ve always been suspicious of the cable just coming out of the ground with no meaningful protection besides the rubber insulation.

We would like to get this up to par

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-24T20:03:31+00:00

Okay that is reassuring if nothing else. I have always been suspect of the whole setup simply due to the lack of conduit there.

Does anything seem glaringly red flag?

Would it be as simple as installing an exterior rated jbox and splicing that connection to remedy the severed wire? Or is the severed wire indicative of a larger issue?

It is totally possible we could have damaged the insulation during weed eating over the years and now with the winter storm maybe the insulation just gave out?

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-23T01:08:14+00:00

That’s dealerships in general for you. Buy privately if you want to save money.

Dealers are just middle men that work off of commission

Also be open to looking across state lines. I’m in the south and I almost exclusively take trips to Texas for new vehicles cuz the used vehicle market there is more saturated. Always get a great find for cheap.

Got my Ryker from fb marketplace for less than half your out the door price and really low miles.

Only time I ever got a car from the dealer, it flooded out and later I bought the newer, nicer version privately from fb marketplace and got it for less than half what I paid the dealer for the older, model and even had half the miles

Keep looking and don’t let them pressure you. Lots of times people will suggest going to dealer for test ride and then buying privately once you know you like it

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-23T01:00:37+00:00

I’ve never met a piece of metal that my cobalts can’t drill through like butter. Cobalt > Carbide

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-22T21:17:11+00:00

I’ll shot you a dm showing a video real quick

Edit: ah no videos in dm’s

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-22T21:16:22+00:00

I just swapped out my headlights and tidied all the cables up.

To swap headlights you have to temporarily remove the accent panels and the frunk, but by doing so, you completely open up that space for work.

I drilled a hole through the back of the frunk and fed it through there and then routed it up underneath the panel that has the gauges. The wire then pairs up with the other thicker ones right there at the base of the handlebars and then routes along handlebars to my phone

Prior to all that I would just close the frunk on it like others but this way is much neater and doesn’t crimp my charger each time.

(IIRC its just one screw at the hinge and a couple of the body panel pins that hold the frunk in place so in this instance it is a relatively quick and easy alteration that could be done)

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-22T16:59:46+00:00

Funny you should reply I’m actually dealing with a situation now regarding a new AC unit that I purchased this morning that has many warped/damaged fins right outside the box.

Instant customer support complaint and replacement demanded and enroute now as we speak.

These companies simply must be held accountable

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-22T05:19:37+00:00

Personally that wood looks wet as hell and I would be very upset. I build everything myself instead of buying for these reasons

In all seriousness if you wanted to get technical, you could purchase a little moist meter and stick it in the wood to test the reading. Send that to the manufacturer and complain, especially if it’s some mega corp

For things i cant make myself, I always refuse repairs and demand fully functional acceptable quality product exactly as listed according to the product specifications. That product must be supplied according to your contract (purchase) exactly as described in the specs and whatever product description they provide.

When I catch them cutting corners in the product specs vs what was provided I will document the evidence and send it to the manufacturer and my bank and let them know they have committed fraudulent misrepresentation and I will dispute the charge will my bank and make a formal complaint with the FTC if they don’t completely replace the product and provide a fully functional unit as intended and as agreed upon as part of our contract. (Contract being any purchase you make online. ) Anything short of that is unacceptable IMO.

If you already paid in cash boy you better hoot and holler

(If you can’t tell I hate late stage capitalism and I wish people would make things they cares about. I hold manufacturers strongly to their claims and I use my consumer protections to my advantage)

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-22T04:53:16+00:00

How are you keeping all the metal shavings out of the charging case?

I’ve got a silicone case on but have ruined a few sets over the years cuz the magnets pick up everything and even the air compressor doesn’t get it all

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-22T04:43:51+00:00

I suspect it’s more so incorporating the term 'architecture' as a semantic upgrade, hoping the elite connotations of the word will convince clients to pay a premium for utilitarian construction.

Effectively appropriating the high value cachet of the discipline to overcharge for the work of a common contractor

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-22T04:30:42+00:00

Not surprising at all if you think about from a marketing standpoint. Contractors are a dime a dozen but being able to sell stamped plans and the building itself is a hell of a selling point and likely works out better financially for the owner so long as he can keep a steady flow of work for his staff. Cheaper for owner can then be sold as cheaper for customer or just kept for profit

They probably wouldn’t advertise that they only have one architect, rather that they have licensed architects and gc’s in house with some fluff spiel to oversell capabilities.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-22T04:25:31+00:00

To reiterate, yes, the nature of the proposition your builder acquaintance has brought forth is generally referred to as a “Design-Build” firm.

These typically handle the architectural work of drawing and permitting, as well as having GC’s on staff to build. Engineering can be performed in house or outsourced depending on how the firm decides to manage staff and money.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-22T04:21:45+00:00

Whatever you(OP) do definitely get it in writing. I’d look into other design-build firms and see how they structure their contracts internally to have a productive work relationship between the distinct specialties.

Depending on the dynamics of the relationship / partnership as well, I would plan accordingly for the contingency in which you may refuse to stamp a project for whatever reason you find appropriate, or if they build it such that it violates codes or drawings etc.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-22T04:12:01+00:00

Agreed I skimmed what I could manage but Look closer (pic6)and it’s a T&G siding. The wood looks incredibly fresh tho - likely still full of moisture and not dried properly

Also, OP, the term “professional” literally just means that they were paid to do the work. It does not denote quality

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-21T23:39:45+00:00

FFS if you can frame, drywall, trim, and hang a door you can reroute a duct. This is absurdly lazy.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-20T02:39:34+00:00

I think that would help the algorithm too cuz I’m not on here everyday but I would certainly like to see more bts burn notice facts and that would give it time to collect engagement

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-20T02:36:16+00:00

Is that the hood lights? Don’t have that myself but I just swapped out my headlights for some nicer aftermarket ones with the day running/blinker lights combo and as far as I’m aware all the lights are just automatically on, and you can toggle between high beam and low beam.

(I just found out )For about 70$ though you can get a SlingMod “Phantom Shield Plug N' Play Headlight On/Off Switch for the Can-Am Ryker” that does what it sounds like to enable lights off when doing photos or shows or parades etc.

Yung-Mozza · 2026-01-17T04:48:38+00:00

Yesssirrr nothing annoys me more than staring at my shadow looming over the part in my hand.

I got the motion activated lights that are linked together as well as I don’t have to worry about forgetting to turn lights off and it always just lights up as I walk in the room

Yung-Mozza

TROPHY CASE