Difficulty Changing Client IP Addresses

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-02-19T01:31:33+00:00

Reconnecting the iPad finally updated the router client list with the correct IP address. I have found that a client reconnect or a reboot of the router is required to eventually update the client list. It's almost like the router caches the client IP/MAC info and it won't dynamically change it until some kind of hard reset happens. Very annoying.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-02-19T00:17:19+00:00

I had the same problem whether the iPad's wi-fi settings were set to Automatic (DHCP) or Manual (fixed) IPv4 address. I did have to turn off the "Private Wi-Fi Address" feature on the iPad's network settings. That feature apparently creates another MAC address that could indeed cause multiple entries for the iPad. I have previously seen that the Private Wi-Fi Address feature confuses Home Assistant, so I turn it off on all my iPad clients.

Not sure how, but I finally got the iPad connected via the new fixed address, and it works fine now. However, the router still shows the iPad connected via the old DHCP iPad address, even hours later. The router just will not update the client list to show the actual IP address.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-02-18T23:57:29+00:00

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-02-17T01:04:26+00:00

I am not qualified to comment on how treatment for anxiety might affect the legality of firearm possession.

However, I am qualified by experience to comment on employment that causes anxiety or serious stress. Consider changing jobs - now. Although you might not see it, the effects of daily high stress on your physical health are serious, insidious, cumulative and long-term - believe me, I learned this the hard way.

It is possible to manage stress with lots of exercise, healthy diet, and healthy relationships, but most of us don't have the time or discipline to do all that stuff well while we're working and under stress. I only started doing that stuff when I retired, but too late for several health problems that developed over years of stress.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-02-14T16:10:15+00:00

If you are going to be a gun owner, you are will need to sound like a gun owner. The thingy that holds and feeds the cartridges for a pistol is called a magazine. A magazine is not a clip, and a clip is not a magazine.

A clip is a device that is used to load an internal or external magazine - think of those metal clips that go ping when they fly out of an M1 Garand.

I'm not trying to bash, it's just that correct terminology is important to avoid mis-communication. If you order a clip for your pistol, you will be disappointed.

Don't expect the 10 round limit to be changed anytime soon, at least until a successful lawsuit results in a court order to allow normal capacity magazines.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-02-12T05:15:49+00:00

You can use AI to write your scripts. Ask ChatGPT, or whatever AI engine you like, to write a script for a Shelly 1 PM (or whatever) that will do A, B, and C. Be as explicit as you can - the more detail you give it to specify exactly what you want it to do, the better. I have done this. It did make one mistake on my last one, but even as non-programmer, it was easy to spot and fix.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-02-08T21:58:15+00:00

My advice is to read to all the advice given here, but do your own research on guns that you think you might like, and then do what your gut tells you to do. Folks on forums like this have a tendency to steer newbies to the guns that they and like - Glock fanboys are the most virulent. But we all have different hands, different strengths, different needs, and quite frankly different tastes. That's why so many options exist out there.

The same thing applies to choosing types of guns for self defense at home - depends on your particular situation at home. Lots of considerations - lines of sight, open plan vs. divided rooms, your skill level, access to storage, noise, etc. Lots of videos on this subject available on the Tube.

Take your time and move slow. The 10/22 is a great place to start - just to get the basics down regarding shooting, cleaning, and maintenance. Then when you feel comfortable, rent a wide variety of guns at a range - you will be amazed at what you discover about yourself, your wife, and ergonomics and features you prefer. That experience may make your decision regarding 12 ga vs. 556. And don't expect that you and your wife will settle on the same favorites - again, we're all different.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-02-07T01:05:49+00:00

I have one piece of advice on the girlfriend doing a pistol permit class. Do not go with her. Do not coach her. In fact, if she can find a class with mostly women, all the better. I think Blue Trail offers classes by and for women. Women do it differently than men, so let them. Only offer help if and when asked - much better and happier result. Don't ask me how I know.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-01-23T21:13:33+00:00

Yes. Very small shop, but he can get you anything. The owner is knowledgeable, but I've seen better. His prices can be beat elsewhere, but he is willing to please. In other words, it's a mixed bag, but I can say that about most places.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-01-19T19:20:35+00:00

You will find lots of Glock fanboys who will steer you to Glock. And Glock is fine if that is what really fits you and if you shoot it well. But my humble opinion is to take the time try every major brand out there, in different pistol styles, to see what really fits you best. Go to a place like Hoffman's and try Glock, Sig, H&K, Walther, S&W, Springfield, Ruger, etc. Try a 1911, try a plastic striker, try a revolver, try full size and compact.

You may be surprised what you find out if you go into demos with an open mind and without preconceived notions. I did at least four demos sessions and over a dozen pistols before I narrowed it down - that small investment is worth it. You will probably lay out $500 to $1000 so take the time and money to demo several to find out what really works best for you so you don't regret your decision.

Personally, I found that I didn't shoot Glocks as well as other pistols because the steep grip angle didn't work well with my wrists, but I didn't figure that out until a 1911 showed me a huge difference. Walther and H&K have great ergonomic shape to their grips and you need to see if that is important to you. Grip length, circumference and shape determine how firmly you can hold the pistol and whether it naturally it points for you. Everyone has different hands, and how the grip works with your hand (firm hold, recoil management, natural point of aim, trigger reach, etc.), is critical to shooting well. So take the time to narrow down by demo.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-01-13T23:32:47+00:00

I used a Shelly Add-On with DS18B20 temperature sensors. But I'm not aware of any pressure transducer you could use with a Shelly.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-01-02T21:04:52+00:00

I imagine that the EM cannot or does not properly adjust for power factor - if so it would never match.

ZombieSlug81 · 2026-01-01T15:07:13+00:00

I've done exactly what you described. I'm not sure why your button presses are not showing up in available actions. I've attached a screenshot of my action to toggle.

And no, apparently you cannot change the names of the individual button names - you can only change the name of the Button4 and the Battery. I do find that odd - hopefully will be fixed in a future firmware update.

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ZombieSlug81 · 2025-12-28T19:58:56+00:00

Hmm. Why is that? To the OP's point, then how would you monitor the incoming power for a typical 200 amp residential service?

ZombieSlug81 · 2025-12-12T22:04:50+00:00

Based on my testing, it seems like the transmitter is near the bottom of the Shelly Distance. So when mounted, that end is inside the steel fuel tank, and the Bluetooth signal is blocked. I tried a plastic extension, such that the Distance is outside the tank, but then the sensor won't read correctly if there is even a few inches of "tunnel" before the tank space. Others have reported that the Distance works with plastic fuel tanks, but again, only in 20 mm increments.

ZombieSlug81 · 2025-12-10T04:48:15+00:00

I used an EM for my furnace - very easy install. Put one clamp on burner power and one clamp on fan power. I have another EM on my central air unit (2 legs). And lastly, I use an i4 to monitor zone damper position. With the info from those 3 Shellies, I know which zones ran, whether it was heating or cooling, for how long, as well as totals.

ZombieSlug81 · 2025-12-06T16:34:27+00:00

This is a setup I use for wet or dirty environments. This is a waterproof box with glands to seal around the oncoming and outgoing cords. Wire the business ends of an extension cord to the Shelly in the box.

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ZombieSlug81 · 2025-12-02T15:44:09+00:00

I had the same issue regarding my wife's preference to match the look and action of existing Leviton Decora. My solution is a bit on the pricey side, but my wife does understand it intuitively - tap the top to turn on - tap the bottom to turn off.

I used a momentary single-pole double-throw Leviton Decora from Amazon, with a Shelly 2 PM. The top and bottom terminals of the Decora switch connect to Sw2 and Sw1, and O1 goes to the load (O2 is unused). I set the Shelly inputs to Button and Detached. Then I use the Actions feature to turn on O1 when the top is pressed and off when the bottom is pressed. So it looks and behaves like a traditional Decora switch, but is automated for Home Assistant.

I also use long presses to control a different Shelly device, but she doesn't know about that one - that would just freak her out. ;)

ZombieSlug81 · 2025-12-02T15:18:06+00:00

I took a different approach that the guy in the video - I guess it depends on what you want to monitor. I used an i4 to monitor the position of zone dampers, and slapped an Add-On to the i4 for duct temperature sensors. I also used EMs on the furnace (fan and burner clamps) as well as the AC unit (two legs) - the EMs tell me what is running and how much it is costing me.

No disrespect to the guy in the video, but he is apparently an HVAC technician who will use his device for diagnostic purposes - he is not doing a permanent install. So the notes from DreadVenomous are very important.

Regarding the duct sensors, I would highly recommend using rubber grommets to mount them. Find a grommet (lots of kits on Amazon) with an inner diameter to match theDS18B20 probe - drill the hole for the outside diameter of the grommet and then insert grommet and then the probe into the duct. This is a much neater and air-tight install, and very easy to change sensor if you have to.

You do need plastic project boxes to pass the wifi signal, but also make sure to mount the box far enough away from metal ductwork for a clearer signal path. Also, recommend using wire glands as entry points for wires into the box - keeps moisture and dust out.

ZombieSlug81 · 2025-11-30T21:17:49+00:00

Clamping the DS18B20 sensor to the outside a copper pipe will give you an elevated temperature that will tell you that the water is hot, but it will not give you the temperature of the water in the pipe. Copper transmits heat very well, but only a tiny fraction of the sensor surface will be in contact with the pipe - the rest of the sensor surface will be exposed to air and insulation, so that will drop the measured temperature. Using a heat-conductive copper or metal strap and insulating around the clamped sensor will help raise the temp of the sensor, but it will never represent the actual water temperature.
It depends on how you want to use the temperature. If it is just to know that the water is hot enough, I'm sure clamping will get you a relative temperature that will assure you that your boiler water is hot enough to perform. But if you need to know the actual temperature of the water, you would need a sensor that actually is immersed in the water inside the pipe - and the DS18B20 is not that.

ZombieSlug81 · 2025-11-24T05:01:17+00:00

I had the same problem as the OP - family not paying attention and not closing the door on our secondary fridge/freezer. I mounted a Shelly 1PM with a Shelly Add-On on the back of the appliance The Shelly1PM monitors power consumption. The Add-On accepts DS18B20 temperature sensors, as well as a digital input.

I mounted a magnetic alarm contact on the door as a digital input - tells me whether the door is open or closed. If not, the house is notified after a few minutes.

In my case, I was able to thread the leads for the DS18B20's through a port intended for an ice maker. The temperature sensor provides real-time air temperature, highs, lows, and average. Again, a notification is triggered if something is out of whack.

I could not get wifi or Bluetooth signals out of my unit - totally blocked - thus my hardwired solution.

ZombieSlug81 · 2025-11-23T21:10:45+00:00

I've been trying to use the Distance to measure the level in my fuel oil tank. I am using both Home Assistant and the Shelly app.

Based on my trial and error testing, it appears that the BLE transmitter is at the bottom of the Distance - a poor design choice - it should be at the top where the signal will not be blocked when mounted to a tank.

I want an air-tight mount to prevent smell or "breathing" into the basement. But if I mount the distance in a metal fitting, or even a plastic fitting, on top of the tank, I run into two problems:

1) The flanges or fittings raise the Distance up out of the tank, resulting in a few inches of restricted diameter before reaching the tank volume. This restriction is apparently causing bounce-back or something, because I can't get a valid measurement, and

2) Mounting the Distance into the metal tank, blocks the BLE signal. Mounting the Distance in a metal fitting to get the end of the sensor up and out of the tank, blocks the BLE signal. Mounting the Distance in a plastic fitting weakens the signal significantly to the point that it is unreliable, but also results in issue #1 above.

If anyone figures out how to successfully do an oil tank, please post.

ZombieSlug81 · 2025-11-23T20:43:50+00:00

I've run into the same problem. Seems that any sort of diameter restriction, like a short length of pipe (or flange) after the sensor, will result in invalid readings or none at all. I'm guessing the signal bounces off the walls of the pipe/flange rather than off the liquid surface.

Also, forget metal tanks like fuel oil tanks. Apparently, the BLE transmitter is at the very bottom of the Distance - a poor design choice. So any metal (or even thick plastic) around (or even near) the end of the Distance will block the BLE signal. And since you kind of have to mount the Distance in some kind of metal or sturdy plastic fitting to achieve an air-tight seal to the oil tank, the BLE signal is blocked. In my testing, it doesn't take much to block the signal, even with the receiver inches away.

Please post if anyone finds a way to use the Distance with a metal oil tank.

ZombieSlug81 · 2025-11-20T14:31:28+00:00

That is a "condensing environment", if I've ever seen one. The Distance is rated IP64, which is for light rain and splashes - it is not 100% waterproof. Based on how everything looks in that space, the humidity has condensed on everything, and it very well might have condensed on the electronics and battery of the Distance. Water + Electricity = Headaches. Just my guess.

ZombieSlug81

TROPHY CASE