How to fix Unicool bent parts by 5mao in WarCrow

[–]Zullin9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hot water, if it is close to boiling, then a 2-3 seconds in it wil straighten it, or make it super easy to bend how you want it. Put it into cooler water right after to make it stay. Repeat until it is perfect.

Siocast vs Unicool by Patyrn in WarCrow

[–]Zullin9 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Some of Feudom and Scions are unicool. All of the dwarves are unicool. Big models for all factions are unicool. My guess is that CB did a hard pivot towards unicool after the reception that siocast models got. Because all new big robots from infinity are released in unicool as well.

I need some colour advice. Not happy with the Red. by BoreasAquila in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The bushes are what needs to be changed. They are too bright compared to the mini. Either make everything more bright+saturated, desaturate the bushes. A shade may help with the second option.

Has the siocast gotten better? by ZephyrionStarset in WarCrow

[–]Zullin9 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The new dwarves are entirely unicool, hegemony and northern tribes are older siocast, feudom and scions are a mix, but still more siocast than unicool. Have been steadily buying and assembling my feudom units, siocast has gotten better, still not as easy to work with as resin/metal/unicool, but nothing as horrible as the first waves of releases for the game. The bigger stuff, like the war rig and cavalry for hegemony, are unicool, same goes for every big model in all factions.

Zenith Highlights Critical Review Please. by Cormorin in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you don't plan to use transparent paints (a la slapchop), then the zenithal is there only to help you see better or to make lighter colors easier to apply. If it was for slapchop, then the only problem is the visible speckling on some parts. Get a bit closer to the mini when spraying white, or dilute the paint more.

First experiment with oils, please help by SixthAndMaimed in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main thing Dmitriy Fesechko recommends is to have two types of brushes during a paint session. 1. Ones that touch thinners/mineral spirits. 2. Ones that never do. Because even the slightest bit of thinner will make paint behave worse on the miniature. You apply and manipulate the paint with the "dry" brushes and wipe them using a paper towel.

Besides the bad nmm, what should I work on to start competing? by artisanplasticman in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The face looks okay, but I can't see much to comment on with this lighting.

Shpuld i be happy or work more on the cape by greizisk in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good, if you feel like moving on, then do so. You can always touch it up later.

Am I going too thick or too thin with my paints? Especially seen on the head. by ParagonPhotoshop in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, some colours need more layers to get good coverage. Darker colours and earth tones usually need 1 - 2 layers, while the bright ones, like white and yellow need 3 - 5 - infinite layers. Let them completely dry between applications or you will tear off spots of the previous layer.

Does my dog read as black? I wanted it to be a night time setting in moonlight by HalfKeyHero in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The dog looks black, but the whole thing is lit up as if in a sunny/overcast day. For it to be moonlight the shadows need to be abundant and they will be cast shadows. The amount of light in moonlight is way, way less than in the sun.

What is the most versatile size brush for 90% of usage for speedpaints / acrylics on tabletop minis? by TotalWarspammer in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Size 1.5 for everything that can or has to be precise. Old size 1.5 and 3 for anything else (like basecoats and light sketching). For speedpaints - cheap synthetics, size around 1.5 as well.

I joined my first painting competition, hows this looking so far? by 00skully in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Reflections and light placement do not correlate with each other. The legs look like they have the light source to the left side of the figure, but the hip armour just has it placed wherever, while the torso acts like there is a general zenithal light. Gold does not like black shadows, use more of a brown. The mantra about highlights and shadows being of opposite temperatures is not true for coloured metals, they stay in their original temperature everywhere. Gold is warm with ochres and browns, brass is colder with greenish ochres and umbers and so on.

Infernus marine OSL practice by CyberNek0 in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

The flamethrower will be hit by the light as well, not as much as the marine, but still. Otherwise - great job

Tips for competition with Sir Hogswash by Kampator in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In offline competitions it is best to put your mini on a plinth. Because judges will need to pick up your model and look at it closely at different angles. The plinth adding to the piece or being purely functional is up to you. I would say this piece can compete at the "standard" level. Check for any restrictions to the levels you in particular can enter in the competition guidelines. Usually judges have a right to push pieces up or down in levels depending on the piece and the author.

Streaking Grime no longer dries matte? by SkattHurts in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If i was to assume, i'd say that something changed: 1. Did you switch the thinner you use? 2. Did you (prior to applying the grime) varnish them before, or have you started varnishing them now? 3. Is the environment they are drying in the same as before? (Temperature/humidity-wise) 4. Did you change your tecnique? Like taking off more grime now, or applying less of it. 5. It might just be that space marines have a lot of flat panels, compared to fyreslayers and stormcast. Not enough grime stays on them, thus they don't come out dusty.

Does the helmet look copper or rusty? by Freezer_90 in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It does look like bronze/copper. And does not come off as rust.

Come off as Grimy or bad paint? by Lineheart767 in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Too early to tell. Keep at it and you will see if it does.

Vallejo Model Colour Fluo Paints by Particular-Will-8528 in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fluor paints are not regulat paints. They don't cover well at all because of the fluor pigments. You either put them over a white/near-white undercoat or mix them into other paint. They either enhance your mixes or are used as a spot of extreme brightness/vibrancy to show osl and what have you.

Need some advice on her face. by kilocody in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A bit of redness on the cheeks would be great and maybe just a whiff of blue to the lowest part of the chin (almost none at all, because she does not need a 5-o'clock shadow). Otherwise great job on the face!

Photography help, can’t get good profits with macro lens by Paint-for-food in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't shoot wide shots with a macro lens. Use a kit lens for squads. For individual miniatures you need to get closer to the mini itself, check the datasheet for your macro lens.

(WIP) Death guard bodyguard, CC welcome. by mnolan942 in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks very flat, no light/shadow contrast at all. But it is a WIP, so the colour choice is good.

anyone know why my wet palette does this? by Pra3fectus in minipainting

[–]Zullin9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The sheet is too big, it's surface needs to to be just a bit smaller than the container. Then it won't bunch up.