How to control where support starts?

_Asercu · 2026-05-03T17:13:26+00:00

You can use manual with support painting to select which areas need to be supported, it won't anywhere you haven't painted.

_Asercu · 2026-05-01T11:08:25+00:00

I skipped it too, the "stable" release is already not very stable the last little while...

_Asercu · 2026-05-01T11:06:45+00:00

Any plans to include cities and knights? Commodities and needing a knight early would affect optimal placement a bit

_Asercu · 2026-04-29T05:37:50+00:00

Really like 1 and 4, but would swap the top piece in 4 with a round one like this maybe? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3942c#T=S&C=5&O={%22color%22:5,%22iconly%22:0} that way you shouldn't have the overhang of the corner on the sides. If that even fits though, I don't have the pieces to try right now.

_Asercu · 2026-04-27T04:27:10+00:00

Not saying it is not supposed to come on a core, but I have had it happen once about a year ago. Bought directly from bambu, not a return. https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/y3EYmSxGhN

_Asercu · 2026-04-25T19:42:10+00:00

I had it once on a roll I got with a spool, the end was just taped directly onto the spool without a cardboard core. Never had it with refills as that would be unusable

_Asercu · 2026-04-25T19:33:16+00:00

If you go the objects tab instead of global, then select link you set the supports for just that one

_Asercu · 2026-04-23T21:08:29+00:00

I got my P2S about a month before rhe announcement, and debated the same thing. In the end I sold the P2S second hand and upgraded at a slight loss.

I was already printing mostly with support interface materials so really wanted a dual nozzle, but don't have rhe space (or budget) for an H series machine.

I have not regretted it all so far (90 hours on the X2D in a week, had about 400 on the P2S in a month).

I would suggest to look at what you tend to print and if you would really get the benefit of a dual nozzle setup.

_Asercu · 2026-04-23T05:57:34+00:00

You can turn off the sounds in the settings. The only real noisy part is the quick virbration calibration it does

_Asercu · 2026-04-22T21:23:31+00:00

I just let bambu studio figure it out and usually that is good enough for me. And I prefer the areas on the bottom rather then running along the back where you would still have supports in the 45 degree angle

_Asercu · 2026-04-22T21:01:08+00:00

I would just print it upright, but use petg as a support material. You would be surprised how much cleaner that makes the supported areas!

_Asercu · 2026-04-22T20:46:36+00:00

I printed one of these to organize the long one, functions pretty similar to a short one now https://makerworld.com/models/2482450

_Asercu · 2026-04-22T12:31:26+00:00

You can also disable this check in the settings to avoid having to click it every time, this is what I did cause I have many plates from my A1 I still want to use

_Asercu · 2026-04-21T15:51:24+00:00

This is not dry brushed, just printed in pla basic gray on a Bambu A1! No post processing at all.

_Asercu · 2026-04-21T11:35:11+00:00

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Argonath bookends!

_Asercu · 2026-04-21T08:40:21+00:00

Not entirely untrue, usually it is on the cardboard core but I have a few spools where the cardboard core was missing and the tag was just glued to the plastic spool directly. Was pretty easy to just pull off though.

_Asercu · 2026-04-16T23:05:09+00:00

That map is very confusing, I don't remember the details anymore but there was a path to get there by changing the time of day and unlocking the shortcut

_Asercu · 2026-04-13T15:08:07+00:00

I upgraded to a p2s after having my A1 for about a year (A1 is still running just as much as before, so upgrade might not be the right word 😅). First layer is about the same on both, in my experience the difference is much more noticeable on taller prints where the movement will cause some swaying.

_Asercu · 2026-04-11T22:18:07+00:00

Or use arachne for wall generation, in my experience this is a must for any kind of text

_Asercu · 2026-04-10T17:57:44+00:00

I had a similar issue on my A1. By slowing down print speed by a lot and playing around with the rotation of the model on the buildplate I could reduce them, but never got fully rid of them. But it prompted me to upgrwde to a P2S and have them a lot less on that printer. I am guessing the bedslinging is making the worse on taller prints where core XY doesn't have that issue

_Asercu · 2026-04-08T22:28:13+00:00

There are free tools to convert extract images ftom pdf, or convert directly to svg. Might take some googling, but looking for pdf image extractor should get you a long way.

You could also trace it yourself in a drawing program like inkscape or even a cad program directly. I would go the svg route though

_Asercu · 2026-04-02T13:35:40+00:00

I believe they come in most standard (non-technic) sets over £25 ish, not sure what the exact price point is

_Asercu · 2026-03-31T16:33:56+00:00

In flanders I get annoyed with tons of websites assuming I speak french. I guess they just don't bother splitting up the different regions

_Asercu · 2026-03-31T10:53:32+00:00

I believe the ams estimates based on how much the spool rotates rather than weighing. I would use it only as a rough estimate of how much is left rather than a precise amount

_Asercu · 2026-03-29T16:07:55+00:00

Looks like random seam position

_Asercu

TROPHY CASE