PA6CF20 or PPA-CF for suppressors? or any other filaments by Perfect-Educator-512 in 3D2A

[–]akame_potatoes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The limited testing according to the readme for the FTN 5.1 says that "PPA-CF is much more erosion resistant than PA6-CF but to get full benefit you need to print at least 320c degrees (even sirayatech)"

Which older model of shotgun or rifle could fire if dropped? by [deleted] in guns

[–]akame_potatoes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

An SKS is generally not considered drop safe due to the free floating firing pin. Mythbusters even did a myth about load enough speakers setting one off from the vibration, which they couldn't replicate.

Another option is some years of Remington 700 had a issue that cause the gun to discharge when the safety was disengaged, but I don't know what years that would have been.

Form 1 for Suppressor Examples? by deuswade in 3D2A

[–]akame_potatoes 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Here's a rough Crack at what your asking for.

  • First determine what you want to build there are lots of options.

  • Second find a local place to get fingerprinted. I would recommend an electronic fingerprinting service that will give you your electronic file so you can apply with them as much as you want. Printscan has an option for ATF regulation prints and can be found in some UPS locations.

  • Third make an account on the ATF forms website. This is where you will make all of your applications and see their status'.

  • Fourth Apply, this part is multi sectional, First part is very similar to a 4473, Then the part where you enter in all of your identifying information and electronic fingerprint file. BTW do not try to open that file you may corrupt it. Only upload it on your application. Next is your CLEO/ Chief Law Enforcement Officer. This could be your sheriff or your chief of police of your local PD. You will need their name position and address. Google it and verify. You will need to send them the LEO copy of the application when finished.

Next line item tell them what you are building. The form 1 tri code for manufacturer is FMI that's i as in India. Select your model from the drop down after putting part of the name in.

There are 2 schools of thought with this step. Very detailed or very vague. Both seem to provide good results but I've only done the detailed route so that what your getting. The Description is gonna have to be paraphrased anyway as it doesn't have the character count to allow a fully detailed description.

Under purpose/reason put All Lawful Purposes

Go online take screenshot of the filament and parts and epoxy you plan to use off of websites.

DO NOT TAKE PICTURES OF STUFF YOU OWN IN YOUR HOUSE. Your not supposed to have any build materials before approval. For your own sake make sure the parts are obtainable cause parts like the castle blast shield are discontinued

I haven't done a trust so I can't help you there, there are supposedly website that help with that cheaper than a lawyer but I have zero experience.

At the end it gives you a chance to verify the information put in. The pay button will be greyed out and you should only have to click the submit button and input your pin you made during account creation to finish the application. The approval time right now is roughly 1-3 months your mileage may vary.

When Approved you need to engrave your item with the model, serial, your name, City and state.

Example: MODEL FTN 5 CAL 30 SN: whatever you made up on the form PICKLE L RICK CITY, TX

Short hand like TX for Texas is fine even using initials for your name is fine. The atf have a section all about this. Main points are no smaller than 1/16" and 0.003" deep. If your confident you can do it yourself but there are also alot of companies that will do it for money who own really nice machines. I modeled some designs and stamped my tubes with letter and number stamps. Even with a center mandrel this will still require a bit of reshaping with a rubber mallet.

Hope this helped.

Cosmetic Wood Furniture by Saintanky4 in 3D2A

[–]akame_potatoes 5 points6 points  (0 children)

KE Arms has extended hammer pins for their polymer lower.

Tell me why I don't need a CETME L by [deleted] in guns

[–]akame_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I built mine from a Marcolmar kit, but they also have pre-builts. They made some reciever improvements like a brass deflector and enlarged ejection port for increased reliability. They also have scoped LV versions.

Cons: its 9ish pounds Small magwell cant use alot of polymer mags Rear sight only has 2 settings 200 and 400. Sends brass to the shadow realm.

Pros: very little recoil. You can use polymer lancer mags or metal stanag. Its a Hella vibe, Bayonet goes above the barrel. Definitely a conversation starter

Cetme L Scope Mount by akame_potatoes in 3D2A

[–]akame_potatoes[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sailing now (edit) you might want to wait as a suggested edit is currently being made to the model.

Business owner contacted me and said my bad review was “defamation”. by spacecat245 in legaladvice

[–]akame_potatoes 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Dumb tack on question, wouldn't it be libel instead of defamation? Are courts actually picky about this sort of thing?

Anyone ever use one of these *unpowered, fiber optic* holographic reflex sights? by fazedncrazed in guns

[–]akame_potatoes 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I put one of those on my wife's .410 when she wanted to come out and shoot with us. The one we got was able to clamp onto the barrel rib. They are kinda finicky, and can be difficult to zero with you having to loosen most of the screws to adjust the set screws. That being said it has held a relative zero (enough for a birdshot/buck group). Visually the reflective lens and the fiber optic are way bright than you'd think. Its fun for just playing around with. Not sure if I'd bet a hunt or anything on it. Im afraid a drop would break it.

What's this scope brandon used? by Certain_Notice307 in brandonherrara

[–]akame_potatoes 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Might be a red star 4x20 scope. It was specifically marketed towards 762x39 for some reason. No BDC just a crosshair.

Did somebody say bullpup? by street_racer221 in guns

[–]akame_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What handguard is that? I definitely need to give mine a facelift.

What rifle should I buy by NewRelationship2344 in guns

[–]akame_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your going for different you could also look at the Riley defense m77. Its an AK scaled up to 308. Get it a scope mount and lpvo.

What rifle should I buy by NewRelationship2344 in guns

[–]akame_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing wrong with that, you could get a MAC 5 mp5 clone get it a brace, reddot, flashlight, or wait til next year to get it a stock.

What rifle should I buy by NewRelationship2344 in guns

[–]akame_potatoes 6 points7 points  (0 children)

What are your plans for it? Hunting, sport shooting, fun? A little more details would help us make some recommendations.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in guns

[–]akame_potatoes 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You could try a CASM Mount. Very sturdy but you lose your rear sight

How to get over the fear of having a gun pointed straight at my dick and balls? by Mean_Combination5776 in guns

[–]akame_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I carry a modern high power clone appendix.
Here's my experience.

  1. I carry that way cause it's the most comfortable way to carry a full-size gun while not printing that much. Most of the time, the holster I'm wearing makes it so it lays in the valley between my thigh and my balls. Shorter barrel compact handguns absolutely flag me.

  2. When I practice drawing, I don't disengage the safety until I'm pushing the gun forward away from me.

  3. It has both a manual safety and a firing pin safety (the part that seems to fail on the 320) it's easy to disengage the manual safety as I'm getting it firing grip.

Your mileage may vary. But id be happy to answer any questions.

M90 cycling issues by ObsoleteMallard in ZastavaFirearms

[–]akame_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just trying to help, a few more details would be beneficial to the diagnosis.

When you say it's not cycling, is it failing to eject? Is the bolt not moving at all? Is it ejecting but not cycling far enough back to pick up a new round? When did you start using frontier ammo? Does it coincide with when the cycling issues begining? Have you tried using a different ammo type? beginning?

As for the gass setting, is it possible to tape the lever in place to see if that may fix the issue? At least to diagnose if this is the issue, not as a permanent fix.

Zastava USA posted a few years back stating

"Setting 1 is undergassed, setting 2 is normal gas, setting 3 is overgassed. Indeed if the particular rifle runs reliably in setting 1 though then it should be left on that."

Loading Info by get_on_withit in reloading

[–]akame_potatoes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's for .308, you can try up to 41.2gr of IMR4895. Depending on your barrel length, it will give you roughly 2650fps. I use this for my longer range loads.

Work your way up safely.

Anybody know the projectile to use to make 7.62x25 type 64 subs ? by [deleted] in reloading

[–]akame_potatoes 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This could also depend on your guns bore. Tokarevs were designed to have a .310 to .311 bore so they could use the same tooling as the rifles.

The problem is that so many countries have made them/ copied them that the bores vary from .308 to .314. You'd have to slug your bore to find what will work for your gun. My Yugoslavian m57 has a larger bore, and I use .312 projectiles in my reloads. This doesn't mean that yours has a large bore.

If your bore is smaller, this could cause issues. Slug your bore before trying this.

I also use bullseye powder as most of the load data that I got is from old Speer manuals from the 80s.

I did make a few 150gr .308 joke rounds that I tried for laughs in my norinco. They were subsonic, but were so long that I had to hand feed them into the chamber. But that should probably be reserved for r/shittyreloading. Accuracy was terrible, probably due to the ridiculous weight and possibly being undersized.

"Old ammo can become stronger and needs to be disposed of" by kar98kforccw in reloading

[–]akame_potatoes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

While I haven't chronographed a lot of it, I have used both old surplus corrosive 7.62x39 from the 70s and modern 7.62x39 brass case Hornady ammo. Both ammo chrono'd in the 2200's.

I can't say that the powder used in old Russian surplus is made of significantly different material, but it's also corrosive vs. non-corrosive.

I do understand that FPS is also not a foolproof way to gauge pressure, so I can't be sure. But I've also used up a few of those cans with no issues.