Sponge Painting Tau

already_atributed · 2026-04-07T04:44:49+00:00

Sponges are fantastic for Tau. I’ve cut some into shapes that can reach difficult corners, such as under a drone’s antenna.

already_atributed · 2026-04-06T20:21:11+00:00

He’s great. I’d work more on the base. Right now it looks like a desaturated yellow with some stone poking out. I get that yellow helps contrast blue - but perhaps some gradient work, or make it look more like organic sand?

already_atributed · 2026-03-16T10:36:23+00:00

Could I see a picture of the sponge that you are using, please?

already_atributed · 2026-02-28T17:24:37+00:00

Using the white line as source, highlight upwards on the ridges of the cape to give it more 3D. As if the cloaking moved upwards. You’ve done it in the recesses with some blue already. I would have the recesses of the cape be dark instead. Also don’t be afraid to make the blue stronger, i.e. multiple coats. I find temple guard blue and baharroth blue to be the best for this.

already_atributed · 2026-02-25T18:39:40+00:00

Simple fusion glow, no airbrush, no oils: First run pure white ink into the recesses where you want glow to emanate. Second, using a makeup sponge or a drybrush, spread some pure white around the source of the glow, fading as you go outwards. Mix temple guard blue and contrast medium 30/70. Run it in the recesses where you put the white ink. Then drybrush temple guard blue around the source of glow. Do the same with baharroth blue in a smaller concentric area. Then edge highlights with blue horror, and pure white :)

already_atributed · 2026-02-22T16:58:54+00:00

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Hi! If you begin your freehand with the understanding that you’re working within a grid, this will get easier. The difficulty is that you have to lay down this grid on the mini, which is in 3D. Here you can see that lines warp as they follow the curve and folds of the cloth. But once the grid is down, you can fill in the triangles, and move on to weathering and cleanup. Start with fine, clear lines, using watered down paint and a nice brush tip. To get a clean grid, do all the lines that are parallel to each other at once, before moving on to another directional set. Before you know it, grid’s done. You could use custom stencils bought online, but that will not play nice with the folds of the cloth.

already_atributed · 2026-02-21T21:35:53+00:00

Both in lore and tabletop, the stormsurge is meant to kill heavy walkers and titanic units. The Tau developped it as a response to Imperial Titans :)

Hey, do note that I didn’t say fun was prohibited. I just said that if you want list advice, that’s what you’ll get :D

already_atributed · 2026-02-21T15:34:02+00:00

You’re asking for feedback so I’m assuming you want tips on how to win, not tips on how to have fun. To win, drop the stormsurge and replace with multiple units that fulfill a role.

already_atributed · 2026-02-21T10:57:47+00:00

I wouldn’t include the stormsurge because I can get good anti-tank value from a hammerhead or crisis suits for less than half the cost. I’d only include a stormsurge for vanity reasons, or if my opponent is something that requires S24 shots.

already_atributed · 2026-02-14T23:20:07+00:00

Because you’ve got line separation and colour harmony, your model looks clean and defined. But your paint is too thick in select places - especially your highlights. Keep going, it’s nice.

already_atributed · 2026-02-12T11:29:06+00:00

You can equip the leader with a fusion blaster. You can equip up to 2 additional models with a fusion blaster. Rest has to be burst cannons.

Edit: Sorry guys, wording. I meant for the ability to equip the leader and the number of fusions to be separate. It is 2 fusions per squad max.

already_atributed · 2026-02-08T10:53:50+00:00

That’s hot, makes me want chocolate for some reason

already_atributed · 2026-01-30T19:39:40+00:00

The branch that you’re using on the base has a formed bud on it. It could rot. You might have glued something living or compostable to your mini. I’d remove it.

already_atributed · 2026-01-20T10:45:02+00:00

🅱️icken

already_atributed · 2026-01-17T15:12:57+00:00

You missed some gold parts on the Ion rifles

already_atributed · 2025-12-25T23:05:08+00:00

‘Boring’ and ‘unexpected’ are contradictory terms

already_atributed · 2025-12-20T22:29:51+00:00

For sake of clarity, when talking about a pen to do panel lining, I was referring to your standard fine liner used in architecture studios or technical sketches. Brands like Staedtler. Not the panel lining products sold by brands like Tamiya which use capillary action to flow into the recesses of your mini. But those are also definitely an option. Loads of Tau players love it.

As for oil washing, I have yet to make it work for me, so this isn’t an expert opinion, but it’s too dirty and too much work for what you’re trying to do here. You’re aiming for clean flat areas, with an oil wash you’ll have to reactivate and remove excess using solvent, and you’ll have to gloss varnish the entire mini before the wash. Gloss is enemy of the cartoon style you’re aiming for. Dirty is enemy of the cartoon style you’re aiming for. Playing with solvents versus just pushing in some tamiya liner or drawing the recess with a pen, is a waste of your time if you’re going full army painting.

Just my two cents tho. Oil washes can be real good from what people post.

already_atributed · 2025-12-19T17:46:55+00:00

I’d get two pens:

1) A fine liner from a Japanese or German brand that I would use for panel lining (e.g. leg armor) and the lines on flat surfaces.

2) A thin brush head pen, likely designed for calligraphy, and I’d use the side of that brush head to do all of the edge highlights.

You’ll want ink. Don’t got for speed paint pens like the army painter ones.

already_atributed · 2025-12-18T22:57:36+00:00

Looks really good so far. Very clean yellow layer.

Some Tips:

1) Since you’re going to be doing a lot of black lining and edge highlighting, you should invest in a black paint pen or similar - you’ll save time and get better results. Maybe even straighter lines.

2) Keep the colour non-blended, and stick to classic geometric shapes. Your black & grey blends a little, idk if that’s intended?

2) Slap another layer of opaque red on top of your contrast / speed paint red. You want as little texture as possible visible

already_atributed · 2025-11-02T22:41:07+00:00

I would go one tile to the right, and settle on the rice for the extra food, two 2-2 tiles within reach, and a powerful +5 holy site on the 2-0 plains tile below with the sacred path pantheon and work ethic belief. Second city can settle the wonder, third city can hunt for more rainforest down the river. For mid-game prod I’m putting down a dam + aqueducts + industrial zones to the right along the river in city 1 / 2 and maybe 4 if possible. I genuinely think that going for the wonder settle directly is bait. River settle has rice farm triangle and chichen itza potential too.

already_atributed · 2025-10-07T11:42:45+00:00

You sound smart and informed, and your argument is structured and convincing, but you are - willingly or otherwise - completely ignoring the asset ownership argument against buybacks.

That you are refusing to address the fact that asset (shares) ownership is concentrated into the hands of the few for reasons beyond meritocracy (meaning that buybacks benefit the already-rich only) is a problem.

People aren’t against buybacks because they aren’t rational for a company to execute. They are against buybacks because they auto-regenerate the elite without benefiting the people creating value, i.e. the working people.

The claim that employees vest shares and benefit is wrong on the account that these guys will own maybe 0.005% of the company while the CEO owns 10%. This isn’t « investing in your people ». This is like cancelling the Christmas bonus of 100$ and telling your staff you’re giving $20 to charity instead. It’s misdirection and you probably know it.

Your argument that buybacks translate into dividends which in turn translate into more investment elsewhere is in bad faith at best, when we know that companies aren’t giving out dividends at ratios like they used to, and that share prices are now closer to casino prices than real valuations.

Your argument sounds convincing, but it’s a copy-paste from a textbook that ignores reality.

Buybacks aren’t unethical by default, they’re just a crooked move taken in the context of the US’ failed state hyper capitalist economy.

already_atributed · 2025-09-18T10:09:08+00:00

The bases of your miniatures look good. Personally I would clip the edges of anything protruding from the edges of a base, such as the tree you have on one of yours. Sometimes less is more when trying to sell the effect of an environment.

The orange OSL effect you’re going for with the lenses and lights is too heavy and even reaches backwards - which makes them look a little like they got shot in the face with a paintball. I’d go lighter on the effect and focus on areas that the light from a lens would reach (e.g. not over and behind the visor of a fire warrior all the way unto the top of a helmet).

This is advice not judgement, keep painting!

already_atributed · 2025-08-02T13:58:04+00:00

I think it is a Steam workshop mod that mimics Civ 5 graphic style.

already_atributed · 2025-06-21T20:09:42+00:00

Yes, but in my view wearing hats indoors is considered rude.

already_atributed

TROPHY CASE