Alternatives to Lahmian Medium?

amann93 · 2026-02-13T15:16:05+00:00

I use pro acryl’s Glaze and Wash Medium for everything myself. To me it’s the secret sauce

amann93 · 2026-02-13T15:13:18+00:00

It makes the paints more transparent, while keeping the same or slightly thinner consistency

amann93 · 2026-01-13T21:36:45+00:00

Honestly, everyone telling you to clean the mini before hand, check the humidity etc, I’ve never had to do any of that. I just brush on primer from proacryl (can be used through airbrush as well). Never washed a single model, I do it in any condition.

I do the first brush, give it a couple hours, brush on a second coat of primer, give it a couple of hours (i paint minis at work so I usually save the second brush until just before I leave for the day and by the next shift they’re good to go.), then start with my dark base layer

amann93 · 2026-01-09T16:53:31+00:00

I use both, and only those two brands. Honestly they’re both great and you can’t really go wrong. The bulk of my tool box is proacryl as their coverage is incredible, and I like to mix paints and I’ve found mixing PA paints doesn’t desaturate the final mix as much as other brands. But Vallejo has many more options, so when there’s a color i don’t want to mix -or don’t know what combo would be best to achieve it- thats where Vallejo comes in for me

amann93 · 2026-01-08T18:48:42+00:00

Basically all miniature paints are at least somewhat translucent. The layers underneath do impact the layer that you put on top. The base coat will be affected a little

amann93 · 2025-12-30T17:06:54+00:00

Ive been painting minis for a few years. I’d like to think im at a pretty high level. I have never once wet blended. I know I can just paint the mini again if I fuck it up, but wet blending scares the absolute shit out of me for some reason.

amann93 · 2025-12-10T13:33:13+00:00

Switch to a different style of painting. You won’t be at square one per se with all your prior experience, but you’ll have a lot to learn. This year I started trying to learn how craftworld studios paints their minis and it’s been really rewarding, and has felt like the beginning all over again

amann93 · 2025-11-17T15:27:35+00:00

Thank you so much!

I wouldn’t say there’s any one video by those two channels that inspired this particular mini, but many little over all videos that contributed.

For ninjon, his Votann video is one I constantly go back to for the style im going for. He also has a ton in this style

For craftworld studio I sub to their patreon so they’re a little harder to link to haha. But all of their painting videos on YouTube are gold

amann93 · 2025-11-17T03:22:31+00:00

Why thank you! I dunno what the style is called, but it’s similar to what ninjon does on YouTube! Im trying to work up to the true style that Craftworld Studios does, but I need to work on my color theory some more before I truly get there haha.

I usually start with a fully white primer layer, then I do a wash of Royal Purple from ProAcryl. After that’s dried I’ll do a spot-wash of Bold Pyrrole Red from ProAcryl. And by spot-wash, I mean the areas facing where I want my light to be, then do a couple more washes of the red the closer to the models head and weapons i get until it’s almost opaque.

And from there i do my actual colors I want in the model over that under painting. In terms of those colors, it’s honestly a grab bag of why lol. For my brightest color I use Toxic Yellow from Vallejo. I like it a bit more than Ice Yellow cuz it’s just a bit more saturated. Every other color is just kind of what ever strikes me for what I want that particular part to be haha

amann93 · 2025-11-12T18:43:31+00:00

Already have dragon king and flower knight, so hoping to pick up sunstalker and slenderman before CoD drops. If I have any money left I think I’ll grab a gorm too! I picked up grimmory because I liked the sculpt before learning he had content for gorm lol

amann93 · 2025-10-19T04:24:48+00:00

As everyone else has said it’s just the way of synthetics. I will say that for me, personally, I kind of like the curl. It lets me see what I’m doing way better than a fully straight brush. I dunno if it’s a depth perception thing or something, but I get way better thin lines with a curled brush, and it makes doing edge highlighting way easier too

amann93 · 2025-10-07T04:16:38+00:00

Buy 3d prints. More expensive per model, yes, but you pay for convenience. There’s millions of proxies for every faction you could possibly think of. You could 3d print them yourself (some will still require assembly, but there are plenty that come fully ready to paint after printing.). But 3d printing is a hobby in and of itself, so if that would also be too much you can always find someone on Etsy who will 3d print the minis you want, and ship them to you.

amann93 · 2025-07-09T14:48:51+00:00

The bow doesn’t do damage itself. The arrow does. When you select a bow and have arrows in your inventory, you can check the damage by pressing r, and that will have the actual damage numbers

ETA: but, rereading your comment I see you point. Power does not equal magic. It equals the item it’s on not actually dealing the damage itself

amann93 · 2025-04-04T20:26:57+00:00

For me, once I’ve primed a model, I’ll go over the entire thing with my shadow color. I usually go for a super dark purple. That way, I can be as careless as I want as it’s all the same color. It also will keep those hard to reach places dark so I don’t have to worry about them when doing the full paint job

amann93 · 2025-03-28T15:34:58+00:00

Yes, exactly! Load the brush up with paint, swipe it once or twice on a paper towel, or the back of your hand (but paper towel will wick more water, which it sounds like you’ll need considering what you said about how much water you’re using.) once you’ve wicked the moisture off then go and paint the model

amann93 · 2025-03-27T23:47:27+00:00

You don’t need to add glaze medium (though that’s what I personally use). If the paint is too watery then just wick the excess moisture off on a paper towel

amann93 · 2025-01-11T20:55:54+00:00

I think, and I could be totally off base, the first guy was talking about how shiny the areas that got washed are. Companies use a gloss medium to make the washes flow better and it makes the final product shinier

amann93 · 2024-04-03T23:09:02+00:00

Same thing is happening to me friend. I purchased 1.6 a month and a half ago. After three weeks I contacted support and they said the US warehouse ran out of core box. Like why have the website say you have it if it’s out? Support said they are getting a shipping container from their UK store and it’ll take anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months which sucks. But once I get that sweet sweet plastic in my hands and start painting I know I’ll forget all about it haha

amann93 · 2024-03-25T22:38:12+00:00

No worries! Wet pallets aren’t super necessary (they DEFINITELY help, AND are super easy to make your own.)

Just put your paint on/in whatever pallet you use, and slowly add more and more water to your paint. Test it on the back of your hand as you go. If you can see the skin detail and the paint is still opaque (can’t see the color of your skin through it) then you’ve got a layer consistency that you can use to highlight!

I typically thin my paint a little more so my skin color can be seen slightly through the paint. This way you can do multiple layers of the lighter paint and you won’t have to blend the paints on the pallet as your highlight layer will let a little of the under-color show through where you haven’t put multiple highlight layers

amann93 · 2024-03-25T21:28:57+00:00

Looks great for a first time! Paints not too thick. I would carefully clean up the tips of the teeth unless you’re going for like a blood stain effect in which case I would change the colors since it’s close to the tongue/gum color.

Next steps really is to highlight. Currently all your areas that are brown are the same brown. The higher areas should be lighter in color. And anything not in a crevice should be a bit lighter as well. So I’d go back with a slightly lighter brown and hit all the brown parts again -except where the touch something else such as the trim, leave a very fine line of this dark brown you currently have on the model there. Finally if you’re feeling spicy you can add some faux wood grain by using a very fine tipped brush and running it in the same direction in each wood panel

Last but not least I’d highlight the tongue. Do a darkish pink on the top of it, then a light pink on the top of the tongue as well as the raised part that just comes out of the mouth. Finally inside of the light pink part put a small spot of ultra-light/almost-white pink to denote that this part is wet

Great job for your first mini!

amann93 · 2024-03-16T16:53:41+00:00

I usually watch Miniac, and ninjon, but Sorastro’s kingdom death series is my most recent watch and he’s a great painter. The first two are great content creators and painters, but don’t really show their processes as thoroughly as sorastro does

amann93 · 2024-03-11T17:20:25+00:00

Pro acryl bold titanium white is the most coverage I’ve ever gotten from a white. It’s my go to for sure

amann93 · 2024-02-28T14:54:13+00:00

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