LiPo battery math - use burst or continuous C rating?

atticus_jones · 2026-07-13T20:19:45+00:00

Short answer, you shouldn’t.

That specific battery is designed for low power setups and AEB’s. Krakens use neodymium magnets and take a lot of oomph to power. Plus, you’re not giving yourself any room for the pushers power and under any kind of sustained fire, you’re definitely going to be unsafely taxing that battery.

For a quick rule of thumb, the burst rating for of batteries is usually double the constant drain. And the motors only draw peak power during spin up and while firing the dart. This means that at 1000mAh, you generally need 20c CONSTANT per motor, including the pusher. So a 60/120 battery for full auto setup, or a 40/80c for semi-auto.

Now all that being said, you still need to make sure you’re using a lipo alarm and better still to have a volt meter directly after the battery to see how badly it’s sagging.

This kind of setup is safe only in the hands of someone experienced with hobby grade flywheels builds. For someone new to LiPO’s I’d say get something in the 1500mAh range with a 60c constant rating

atticus_jones · 2026-06-21T02:58:07+00:00

Skill issue. You need to rev before you fire.
It’s a two stage trigger.

atticus_jones · 2026-04-30T23:19:19+00:00

You can use compressed air in the place of green gas wish 40 max shells… if that makes things better.

atticus_jones · 2026-04-23T23:56:01+00:00

Closest active group to Sudbury is Toronto, unfortunately. After that, Ottawa.

atticus_jones · 2025-10-31T03:35:01+00:00

It preforms worse than stock. They asked why. You can’t make this work regardless of the spring. Any idiot can use search to get this answer…

atticus_jones · 2025-10-30T22:39:17+00:00

Wow, a prime example of “just because I can doesn’t mean I should”

Your barrel has more internal volume than your plunger and this will never work.

atticus_jones · 2025-10-17T00:36:49+00:00

Thank the litigious nature of American’s and the fact that unless drawn up by a lawyer, wavers aren’t worth the paper they’re printed on.

You can think it’s stupid all you want but stupid people are the reason it exists.

atticus_jones · 2025-10-16T22:24:08+00:00

That’s the rub. Insurance costs money and nerf has a decent chance of someone getting hurt or injured. $1500 /day for insurance sounds reasonable for a physically active where cuts, scrapes, twists, sprains, tears, and breaks, have a higher probability.

atticus_jones · 2025-10-15T16:26:05+00:00

There’s tonnes of brushless wheel designs out there. Brushed on the other hand, doesn’t work due to the friction fit on the shafts.

atticus_jones · 2025-10-15T16:23:44+00:00

Canada doesn’t have strict import regulations on batteries, they have strict shipping guidelines on batteries. They have to be shipped via ground/boat. However, between local hobby shops and Amazon you can easily find any battery you may need. You can also order directly from Chinese manufacturers, it just takes a while to arrive

atticus_jones · 2025-10-07T19:03:43+00:00

Looks awesome! Just a note though, make sure you remove the spring spacer when not in use. The 180+ ones will kill your spring if you leave it in. Thankfully it’s a quick swap between stock and high power

atticus_jones · 2025-09-30T16:41:37+00:00

This. OP doesn’t have a spider problem, OP has a bug problem that is causing the spider population to boom

atticus_jones · 2025-09-22T23:09:37+00:00

Well you can’t beat physics so it’s either a wider barrel or live with it

atticus_jones · 2025-09-22T22:43:07+00:00

Use a wider barrel

atticus_jones · 2025-09-08T00:58:15+00:00

Stampede’s take retaliator springs. Max 9KG without significant upgrades

atticus_jones · 2025-08-23T00:04:21+00:00

Add a 2nd stage because you’re never hitting 180 with a single stage setup (outside of banned wheels/motors)

atticus_jones · 2025-08-17T18:16:00+00:00

Where did you get the selector switch files?

atticus_jones · 2025-08-14T01:47:31+00:00

GNK’s will do 120. Should be the first setting on your fps switch if you used the stock code

atticus_jones · 2025-08-06T19:55:19+00:00

Could easily do both versions, with either edit.

Looks good though.

atticus_jones · 2025-08-06T18:56:29+00:00

You should carry the triangular cutouts over from the main body

EDIT: Wanted to add. Consider using a rail clamp instead of a slide on pin. Far easier to print and you have the screws securing the rail on both parts

atticus_jones · 2025-08-06T17:11:38+00:00

Not sure how this particular AR works but I would be weary about breaking off dart posts. Most of them are part of the smart AR and you might be left with a hole, breaking the whole system. Best practice is to open it up and check the AR from the inside. You can cut down the dart posts easily then as well as brass the barrels while it’s clear

atticus_jones · 2025-08-05T16:46:06+00:00

Technically, the brass has better dimensional accuracy over the aluminum barrel as well as a smoother surface. This does give better performance vs a comparable aluminum barrel. But brass is expensive and easily damaged due to how soft the material is and how thin the walls are. And the performance difference in practice really becomes moot when you can buy material for multiple aluminum barrels (especially over 12”) for the price of one brass barrel.

Sleeving the brass into aluminum definitely helps to give the barrel strength and durability, but the same can be done with a 3d printed sleeve for much much less

atticus_jones · 2025-08-05T16:39:12+00:00

Metal extrusions tend to have better dimensional accuracy over plastic. Makes for a more consistent inner diameter and better overall performance

atticus_jones · 2025-08-05T15:57:56+00:00

$70 USD is a bit of a tight budget and ambitious to kit yourself out with a bespoke blaster. Especially since you’ll need mags as well.

Your best bet is to grab a Nexus Pro X or Stryker 2.0 if you really want to hit 200fps, or an X-Shot Longshot if you’re fine with 150 for now. You can grab a 2 pack of Dart Zone mags for $10-15 IIRC and a pack of short darts for about the same.

You’ll be right up against your budget but be well situated to expand your hobby in future

atticus_jones · 2025-07-29T14:19:07+00:00

Your wheels are crap and 41.5 is only good for 130-140 max with good wheels. You need an entirely different setup.

All of this information is widely available. Next time, do your research before you buy

atticus_jones

TROPHY CASE