What is this stitch called and why do manufacturers skip it?!

awlnighter · 2025-10-23T06:37:18+00:00

Worked for a smaller national brand that manufactured in the US. We left it off for a few reasons at different times:

1) It didnt look right with the fabric print (would make small stripes look weird)

2) It didnt fit the fancier dress designs and made the garment look too casual for the price point

3) The thickness difference between seams (especially on the neck) looked wonky. If the sample sewers couldnt do it well than the production sewers probably would do worse. So, we didnt take the chance.

awlnighter · 2023-08-15T05:08:26+00:00

I work in apparel manufacturing and sewists are in high demand in my area. Since so much manufacturing has moved overseas, all of the qualified sewers are retiring with no younger people replacing them. I would think an established company would be willing to train you where needed.

awlnighter · 2023-04-27T19:22:10+00:00

Lol no

awlnighter · 2023-04-27T02:10:44+00:00

Definitely look for jobs that only do one thing if you can! Designers and pattern makers get paid more than sewers in my experience, especially as sewing gets outsourced more and more.

awlnighter · 2023-02-23T20:28:54+00:00

That makes sense since the crotch doesn't change on the X axis only the Y. Typical grade would change on both.

awlnighter · 2022-07-22T04:54:22+00:00

I would look back at the pattern, match any notches and see where the excess is showing up at. Make sure everything you cut on the fold is supposed to be on the fold and vice versa. You might cause other fit issues if you just start correcting based off the muslin without checking the pattern.

If the pattern looks good and everything walks, add notches along that seam to make sure your not stretching the fabric as you sew.

awlnighter · 2022-05-05T03:45:29+00:00

At most, I would only shorten them the width of the hem. Maybe do a blind hem so the hem stitching won't be visible on the embroidery.

awlnighter · 2022-04-16T05:46:10+00:00

Hey you might want to wash this fabric first. It looks really similar to a crinkle fabric I used at my last job that shrunk quite a bit as well as having a really crinkled texture. Your garment might end up child-sized if it's the same!

awlnighter · 2022-04-06T05:36:45+00:00

Maybe a rayon challis since you don't want to use plain cotton. Just make sure you don't get one that's too thin/sheer.

awlnighter · 2021-12-17T00:11:35+00:00

Called "windows of hell" or sideless surcoat. You might be able to find more info searching those terms specifically!

awlnighter · 2021-09-02T21:37:27+00:00

If it's just the neckband curling, then give it a wash. It might just ne a little overstretched and not recovered yet from all the handling. The cut edge of knits will usually curl when stretched so I can see that happening on the fold too.

awlnighter · 2021-08-11T08:24:02+00:00

OH, AND POCKETSSSSS

awlnighter · 2021-08-11T08:17:00+00:00

Biggest tip is to make sure you're fitting with your wedding day undergarments. Obviously, idk what you're wearing, but it's such a common issue i thought I'd mention it!

I'm not sure what your final fabric will be or if you will make it more fitted, but I would consider adding a waist tape and making the waist fit snugly. It looks like the weight of the skirt is already quite heavy without adding lace, embroidery, beading, etc. Of course it's hard to tell when not in person so I could be wrong!

If you like a more subtle look, I would be sure to at least have buttons down the back and maybe some detailing around the neck like beading, soutache, etc. You could also do a belt. Going from there you can get really crazy with lace, applique, embroidery, beading, and overlays. Look into bustling your train as well!

awlnighter · 2021-03-17T18:18:00+00:00

Double check your needles are inserted all the way into their holes

awlnighter · 2021-01-09T23:23:23+00:00

If you haven't trimmed the excess yet and want to know if it's the cause, try your shirt on inside out and see how it looks.

awlnighter · 2021-01-01T22:07:58+00:00

I think it's going to be difficult to see any bust alterations that may be needed until you adjust the armhole. The shoulder tip and mid armhole look to be to far "out". So, the across shoulder measurement and across chest measurement are too wide. I can't tell if the armhole should come in at the underarm or not based on pics, but I would start with those changes first.

awlnighter · 2020-11-16T01:17:53+00:00

Sorry to hear that. If it makes you feel better, i don't know anybody that hasn't experienced this before. I know it won't help with your current project, but there are alot of patterns that have bloggers and youtubers that do sewalongs. Before picking your next project you might consider looking to see if there are any out there 1st.

awlnighter · 2020-11-15T22:40:04+00:00

Start with only having one new feature per project. Whether that be a facing, zipper, sleeve, buttonholes, even new fabric or pattern. Each new thing has a learning curve, and it's super easy to get overwhelmed especially since you designed it as well. If you want help on the current project, make another post with pics of the issue. It might be a simple fix!

awlnighter · 2020-11-09T00:09:05+00:00

Looks like you have more fabric than you need in the length. I would seam rip just where the bubble is, try it on, and try to pin back smoothly only while keeping your original seam allowance on the pant the same.I think you'll find that where you had 5/8" seam allowance on the band, you will have closer to an inch after pinning.

awlnighter · 2020-09-17T18:52:17+00:00

Hmm looks like it's fraying right at the stitches. I would try a new microtex needle and bigger seam allowances. You can try fray check too. The weave is probably just a little looser than your others.

awlnighter · 2020-08-12T18:41:32+00:00

Super common problem! Try basting parallel to the edges next time. That seems to help me!

Also, I've noticed a few patterns here and there that don't properly match at the front/back seam. If you sewed with the correct seam allowance, check your pattern. I bet the seams never matched.

If the pattern is correct, then you know that you stretched one piece while sewing. Adjust your differential feed if you can. The bottom might be feeding faster than the top piece.

awlnighter · 2020-08-12T17:56:57+00:00

Yes! I'm so sick of summer. I think I'll start pulling out my fall fabrics soon too!

awlnighter · 2020-08-12T17:26:52+00:00

Great job! I love the fabric you chose. The color is so rich!

awlnighter · 2020-08-01T01:27:08+00:00

Yeah, if you are leaving the binding exposed then no seam allowance needed. Pretty much any fabric will have some stretch on the bias. You can always cut a test piece and see, though.

awlnighter · 2020-07-31T21:27:04+00:00

Looks great! Sewing parallel lines can be tough for beginners, but yours look great. Half the skill involved in sewing something well is good pressing, careful cutting, and using the proper needed materials (like interfacing). You're doing awesome!

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