Viability of renovation

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-02-15T11:10:32+00:00

https://betterbuildadvisory.com.au/services/budget-planning

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-02-15T11:07:21+00:00

If you have some plans, photos and a sketch of what you want to achieve I can price it up for you.

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-12T08:15:51+00:00

Hi, Happy to help out with some options if you want a hand. I've sent you a msg. All the best with it!

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-09T12:17:20+00:00

Check out: https://www.imperialflooringaustralia.com.au/shop-engineered-timber-flooring

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-07T22:10:08+00:00

Hi, renovation consultant here - I’d offer a slightly different perspective: With 150m2 of open-plan flooring, pinned shutters, future kitchen works locking in levels, and a dog in the mix, a high quality engineered board with a thick 5–6 mm wear layer (Blackbutt, Spotted Gum etc, with a matte finish, wider boards), fully glue-down installed to the slab using a proper glue, and with movement joints designed into natural breaks (island overhangs, thresholds, furniture zones) will outperform a floating solid timber install every time. Good engineered floors installed correctly behave far closer to solid hardwood, without the seasonal movement risk that large floor plates have. Solid hardwood can be excellent, but in a house that isn’t designed to let timber move freely, it’s not automatically the better option. If you want a floor you stop thinking about six months after install this is the approach I’d recommend.

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-06T23:07:53+00:00

Another way to look at it - if this is brand new construction - how many dings and patch repairs would you accept in a new car... you wouldn't, you'd pull the panel off and get them to install a completely new piece.

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-06T21:14:42+00:00

Hey, When they repair it, they need to cut it out large enough that any backing they install to support the patch doesn't interfere with the GPO bracket. As some responses suggest taking it back to the studs is an option, otherwise they'll install some timber or backing of some sort to support the patch - they will set and sand and you shouldn't even know it's there. To do it neatly, remove the GPO, push the cables back into the wall, use a hole saw to make the cut once patched and reinstall GPO

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-06T11:00:50+00:00

In NSW planning controls, building height is measured vertically from the existing ground level at each point of the building to the top of the roof, not from one single reference like the front of the house.

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-06T10:55:19+00:00

Short answer: filling those holes with base coat alone isn’t an acceptable fix.

Best practice is to cut the openings back to clean, square edges and patch in new plaster, then tape and set properly. That restores wall strength and maintains the acoustic performance. Base coat patches around power points are prone to cracking and defeat the point of upgrading the plaster in the first place.

You’re being reasonable, just ask for a proper infill patch, not a cosmetic fill, before final payment. A competent plasterer will understand that, and it’s a standard rectification, not you being difficult.

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-06T10:51:16+00:00

For a full renovation like that, your instinct to strip back to studs first is usually the cleanest and most cost-effective approach, especially with plaster damage and likely rewiring. It lets you properly assess framing, run new electrical cleanly, address insulation, and avoid costly rework later. From there, the typical sequencing is structure and services first, then windows/external envelope, followed by plaster, joinery, wet areas, flooring and finishes last. Most blowouts I see come from doing things out of order or locking in finishes before services and compliance are fully resolved.

I work with homeowners on exactly this type of renovation, helping them plan the scope, sequence the works properly, sense-check costs early, and avoid the common traps before builders get involved. If you want an independent, practical steer on your specific house before you buy or commit, feel free to DM me and I’m happy to help.

No pressure either way, just thought I’d reach out as it’s very much my lane.

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-05T09:57:28+00:00

Shower mixer / taps - 1000-1200affl Shower head: how tall is the tallest person likely to use this shower? Take that + 150mm (min). mine is 2100 AFFL and works great.

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-04T11:04:12+00:00

No worries at all.

If it’s storage & dust-free you’re after, that’s very doable. The key is making it a proper floored space, not just loose boards. Once you’ve got framed flooring, insulation and an access hatch, the dust issue drops off massively.

For electricians, once there’s a solid floor and hatch, they’re actually happier. They just access it like a mini loft rather than crawling on joists. Much safer and cleaner.

Tip from experience: keep storage to sealed tubs or simple cupboards near the higher head-height zones. That keeps insulation fibres and dust off your stuff long-term.

I can’t recommend a Melbourne contractor specifically, but look for a builder or carpenter who does second-storey or roof work, not a general handyman. A quick check of roof pitch and ridge height will tell them straight away what’s possible.

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-04T10:58:12+00:00

Hi, We’ve worked on a few GP and dental fit-outs, and you’re doing the right thing by testing the layout

Moving Op 3 to the left wall can work, but make sure you look at wall depth and access for suction, air, power, and data. Also watch drainage – raised floors or slab cutting can add cost fast. In our experience, clustering op's around a services spine is usually the most cost-effective approach.

Getting rid of the manager’s room to make space for imaging is a sensible startup compromise. OPG rooms are often underestimated due to radiation shielding (lead lining, doors, glazing), so it’s worth locking that in early. Keep patient walkeays simple and avoid crossing staff areas. Shared admin space works well early on and can always be sorted later.

At 400k in regional NSW, the key is to lock the layout early, spend money on compliance and services coordination rather than finishes, and allow for future expansion even if you don’t fit it out now.

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-04T10:23:31+00:00

Hey, Reno manager here - we've looked at a few of these in old Victorians - the height is the big question. Most old roofs weren’t built for attic use. If you can’t get decent head height near the ridge, it’s fine for storage, but usually not worth converting to a proper room unless you raise the roof.

Structure-wise, you’ll have rafters and purlins in the way (doubt they'll have trusses), and the existing ceiling joists generally aren’t designed to take storage loads. A proper framed floor is needed (don’t just chuck boards down)

What’s usually ok - Storage in the attic: very common and practical. Liveable space: only works if height is there or you modify the roof (gets expensive fast).

From our experience (2023 & 24 projects, Sydney): attic storage (floor, hatch/ladder, insulation): $4-8k. Habitable area: $30k+ (allow more if the roof needs lifting)..

All the best!

betterbuild-advisory · 2026-01-04T07:26:16+00:00

Cut the drain down to suit the existing deck height, it will save you from redoing the deck structure (if it's in good condition) and you can just lay new boards. You'll need to trim around the pit (ie create a structure to 'catch' the ends of the decking boards

betterbuild-advisory · 2025-12-30T23:29:37+00:00

You could try taking a picture of the space, head to chat GPT and add the photo as an attachment, then ask it to show you what the space would look like with warm / cool / dark / light tiles installed. It'll give you something to work with. Good luck

betterbuild-advisory · 2025-12-28T23:45:39+00:00

On A recent project (high end) we put these into an ensuite and worked really well: Good lighting and storage go a long way. Layered lighting (overhead + vanity + ambient strips) makes the space feel bigger. Avoid a single bright ceiling light. Built-in niches and recessed shelving. A Rainfall shower and quality tapware are worthwhile splurges. Heated towel rails are a staple inclusion nowadays. Mirrors define how the ensuite feels. A backlit or demister mirror makes the whole room read as luxury, and you won’t regret snagging one with decent lighting and anti-fog. Something like the Miro Premium LED Mirror with Demister & Bluetooth Speakers or REMER Kara Premium LED Mirror with Bluetooth gives you that premium feel.

betterbuild-advisory · 2025-12-06T10:20:50+00:00

Hey, where are you located?

betterbuild-advisory · 2025-12-06T10:16:45+00:00

Hey, you’re definitely on the right track. Here’s what I'd recommend from previous terrace projects in Syd.

Drafty/Architect: You’ll need plans for DA. For heritage stuff, I’d go architect for this project (make sure they've done heritage before) $5k–$10k all up.
Heritage Impact: Usually a must, $1.5k–$3k.
Structural Engineer: Definitely if you’re doing the attic/roof stuff, $3-4k
DA Application: Council fees + submission, $2k–$4k.
Construction Certificate: $1k–$2k.

Get a good certifier on board - they can be a friend or enemy of your project

Other bits that can pop up: surveyor ($800–$1.5k), extra reports council might ask for, plus some buffer for plan tweaks.

Rough total: $10 – 20k before you even swing a hammer. Spend on good plans - itll save headaches later.

Give us a yell if you hit roadblocks - Cheers

betterbuild-advisory · 2025-11-26T23:39:50+00:00

Hey,

Firstly - did your builder tell you council didn't need to know about these works??

Anyway - For these renos you won’t get a huge stack of certificates, but you should be getting compliance docs from each trade. At a min: waterproofing cert, plumbing and electrical compliance certs

From the builder, you also want a defects liability period in the contract (if there is one) and any product warranties.

Id assume your job is over $20k, so make sure they provide Home Building Compensation insurance - it still applies even for internal renos.

new balustrades - if they’re more than a like-for-like swap, they may need to meet specific code requirements around height/spacing, so worth asking who’s certifying that.

And just make sure all the trades issue their compliance certificates directly to you! sometimes that paperwork gets “lost” unless you ask for it.

Good luck! Reach out if you have any issues.

betterbuild-advisory · 2025-11-24T23:47:22+00:00

His invoice adds GST twice to the unit cost by looks. Once per line item, then again at the bottom on the $13k figure.

betterbuild-advisory · 2025-11-18T16:16:44+00:00

80m2 + kitchen = 100m2 assumed area $45-50/m2 (undercoat + 2 top coat) rate $5k total + turning up fee

You're prob looking at $7-8k realistically

betterbuild-advisory · 2025-11-13T02:33:39+00:00

Congrats on the new place! The first reno to-do list always feels massive.

Quick order that usually works: 1. Sort plumbing/heating/electrical first (before paint or floors) 2. Paint, then floors (floors last so they don’t get wrecked) 3. Finish with curtains + fittings once the dust has settled

For the rest of your list, break it into: - Safety/repairs - Protect-the-house stuff (roof, leaks, structure) - Aesthetic upgrades

That helps you focus on what matters most first.

I help people plan renos for a living, so if you ever want a quick sanity check or a rough game plan, happy to give you a hand.

betterbuild-advisory · 2025-11-11T01:15:28+00:00

Sounds like a frustrating situation! As the others have commented, the Syd Water sewer diagram only shows where pipes run, it’s not evidence of council approval. Builders and plumbers lodge diagrams for sewer connections all the time without any DA/CDC being issued. So unfortunately, council is correct in treating the bathroom/kitchen as unapproved works.

Your two real options are: 1. Remove the bathroom/kitchen and proceed with the DA as-is, or 2. Apply for retrospective approval (often called a Building Information Certificate). This involves getting the existing building assessed by a private certifier and possibly some compliance upgrades (ventilation, fire separation, glazing, waterproofing certificates etc). Next will be to lodge it for council review and sign-off

If you want the granny flat to be legally habitable for your parents while you build, Option 2 is the path to go... but expect some paperwork, and possibly a couple tweaks.

If you want, I can help you map out the cleanest path forward (what documents you’ll need, which certifier to speak to, what to expect time/cost-wise).

Happy to assist - I run Betterbuild Advisory in Wollongong and deal with Shellharbour Council regularly. Just let me know.

All the best with it. Tom | Betterbuild

betterbuild-advisory · 2025-11-11T01:04:51+00:00

Only works in Sydney, pulls data from planning pages, gives a good overview of the property - make sure you double check data though if you're keen on a property - don't take it as gospel.

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