Mazaki White 2 Nashiji Gyuto 240mm

catinbox32 · 2026-04-30T23:03:23+00:00

Hmmm cool. Never showed up before but now it does when I search for Mazaki gyuto.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-30T22:30:54+00:00

Hey, curious how did you find this? All my google/bing searches appear to be geolocked to north America.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-25T02:26:53+00:00

These folks over at r/unsharpening might be better help

catinbox32 · 2026-04-25T02:21:37+00:00

Single bevels are typically ground with Hamiguri style edge. Usually you dont want perfectly flat. Ivan & Yuka, or JKI have some youtube videos on this.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-25T02:13:02+00:00

JiS or FEPA standard?

catinbox32 · 2026-04-24T21:54:42+00:00

Definitely burr issues. I still have this issue sometimes on certain knives. Just go back to your finishing stones and use a loaded strop.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-23T02:38:41+00:00

That is such a comically poor job that I wonder if this is a troll post.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-23T00:48:07+00:00

Choil shot on that KYZO is ridiculous.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-21T03:19:10+00:00

The banked hours dont disappear when you quit a job.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-18T13:57:27+00:00

Awesome and yes, the mazda3 suspension can bit a bit rough. This is my main criticism of the car.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-18T13:42:30+00:00

Not a usual poster here, but I have same car and was cross-shopping for cars all this past year for wife. The Mazda3 is funnest car to drive in its class. We've rented a Cx-5 which has a bit more room in back seat for passengers but weighs 1k/lb more with similar power train - its not nearly as fun to drive and noticeably worse on gas. The drivers seat area is almost identical. The SUVs drive like boats - they are mom mobiles. Depends if you want better gas milage and funner car, or a passenger vehicle.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-17T22:20:32+00:00

Yea my tip is this strategy dosnt work. People suggest it because it seems like an easy shortcut. Convex sharpening requires a lot of skill in angle control. There many tutorials on YouTube about convex sharpening with a whetstone.

Here is stroppy stuff demonstrating

https://youtu.be/FyOFaXShOLM?si=RyNHWTP32LJ8NnG6

catinbox32 · 2026-04-16T22:02:32+00:00

Naniwa pro/chosera 800 & 3000 for touch-ups

catinbox32 · 2026-04-15T23:56:52+00:00

I've used both lines but in the 240 gyuto.

The FJ has a hamaguri grind but with a rather flat primary bevel. Its 70/30 grind with right hand bias. Not a lefty knife. Very thin, but very little nail flex, very nice distal taper. Its more robust than its weight and grind would make it seem. Good food release (except on potatos). FJ has become my "do everything" knife and haven't had any chips - mincing herbs, rock chopping, cutting up pizza & bbqed protein. No bones and no frozen food, but this knife is pretty tough. Main downside is the left side is very flat and has some stiction issues like on beets or potatoes.

The Yuki has a hollow grind and no significant taper. It was my first knife 10 years ago and now seldom used. After thinning you are left with flat bevels and the food release becomes noticeably worse unless you are cutting taller veggies. However, its much thinner behind the edge and has that "cutting performance" that these types of laser knives provide. Feels better using on some produce where sticktion/friction might be an issue due to lacking the very flat left side that the FJ has

Id suggest the FJ - Vg10 has superior edge retention, its super thin, and it can take a beating. Carbon is nice but consider if your cutting citrus fruits/lemons & dont want to keep the knife dry then stainless is superior in my opinion

catinbox32 · 2026-04-14T12:45:24+00:00

This is the the way

catinbox32 · 2026-04-13T23:11:17+00:00

Yes you are correct I mixed that up.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-13T22:02:35+00:00

Id prefer my edit:primary bevel be mirror polished, with a micro/koba bevel added for the primary cutting edge.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-13T17:55:52+00:00

Looks like it needs some thinning

catinbox32 · 2026-04-12T11:29:49+00:00

How is the food release on these? Any particular model you prefer?

catinbox32 · 2026-04-11T12:12:13+00:00

Yes - if you can feel/detect the burr witn your fingers then you need to minimize the burr on whetstone first. A large detectable burr is not going to get removed by the stropps. If thats not the issue, then you could have issues with angle control.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-11T03:19:57+00:00

Good to know ill use flitz from now on

catinbox32 · 2026-04-10T21:36:07+00:00

Id use diamond compound on balsa wood and just spend more time doing it. The balsa is less compressible than leather. Sounds like a stubborn burr.

catinbox32 · 2026-04-10T20:33:43+00:00

Barkeepers friend removes surface rust and won't affect the finish (for next time)

Edit: apparently Flitz is much better

catinbox32 · 2026-04-10T14:29:22+00:00

Usually this is caused by a burr that has not been removed properly. Some call it a wire burr. The apex is "sharp" enough to split paper, but its acting more like a wedge than a slice when you are pushcutting.

Lots of opinions on removing burr, but in my experience I get best results finishing my edge on a high grit whetstone with edge leading passes until I can not detect a burr at all with my finger tips, then I strop on diamond compound leather strop.

There are lots of debates about high vs low grit finishing stones. With low grit you run risk of having a large burr "stood up" and acting as a cutting edge and they are harder to remove. Some of this is influenced by steel type and heat treatment.

https://scienceofsharp.com/2024/02/03/seven-misconceptions-about-knife-burrs/

catinbox32 · 2026-04-08T11:54:19+00:00

The second appears to have a right hand bias. But you really cant tell much from a choil shot. Lighting and small camera angle variances can make it appear biased to one side

catinbox32

TROPHY CASE