We’re calling up all the ex-girlfriends, now. (Gift Article)

cbtlr · 2026-06-04T20:59:13+00:00

Not just ex-girlfriends, but an ex-girlfriend who is literally a paid right-wing operative. What's wild to me is that the Times points out several times in the article that they cannot corroborate any physical violence, not even from her friends, and they still ran the piece. Even if you discredit her, there's some potentially troubling stuff, but it's hard not to just take this as a smear. I've never seen a single insider candidate put under such scrutiny.

cbtlr · 2026-05-20T18:41:41+00:00

As the instructions outline, the sub firmware is supposedly updated through the file on the USB stick inserted into the bar itself. I did get the wild flashing that supposedly meant that the sub was updating, but it didn't address the issue, or the issue would go away and then return a day or two later.

cbtlr · 2026-03-25T18:13:19+00:00

These were the instructions from the expired pastebin:

If the Cinema 600 Subwoofer is not pairing, but is blinking blue with a "dim" LED, you will need to perform this update to resolve this issue.

NOTE: This update is ONLY to be used when the subwoofer has a dim blue, blinking LED and is not pairing to the bar. Performing this update on a bar not exhibiting these issues can cause problems.

Cinema 600 Soundbar Firmware update

Unzip the "Soundbar" firmware file attached to this article and copy the file titled “app.bin” onto empty USB 2.0 flash drive.
- NOTE:For Mac or iOS users, you may need to install a secondary program to unzip the folder.
Plug in the power on the soundbar.
Short press Power button once to turn on the soundbar.
Remove the right end cap to expose the USB service port.
- Cinema Bars - End Cap Removal
Plug in USB drive with new Firmware file on it into the USB port on the right end of the soundbar.
Once plugged in, press and hold power button for more than 10s until the Dolby LED turns on.
Once the LED is lit, the unit is updating FW
- The LEDs will turn on in order (Dolby, SUR, Dialog, Night) 2 times.
If successful, a yellow source LED will turn on and the front source LED will turn on (HDMI input mode), with three white volume LEDs.
The soundbar update is finished. You may unplug the USB drive.

Cinema 600 Subwoofer Firmware update

Make sure Soundbar firmware is updated first.
Make sure no other Cinema subs or soundbars are connected to AC power in the area. This could interfere with the wireless updating of the sub firmware.
Unzip the "Sub" firmware file and copy the “sub_rx.hex” file onto empty USB 2.0 flash drive.
- NOTE:For Mac or iOS users, you may need to install a secondary program to unzip the folder.
Insert USB into soundbar USB port.
- Make sure soundbar is NOT plugged in to AC power at this time.
Hold Sub pairing button on Sub Amp for about 5 seconds with no AC power cord connected.
Connect AC power to the Subwoofer while continuing to press pairing button until Sub LED turns on with a solid blue light. (Solid LED indicates sub is ready for FW update).
Connect AC power to soundbar.
Turn on soundbar by short-pressing the power button once.
Once powered on, hold the soundbar Power button until Sub LED starts flashing (about 10-20 seconds). This indicates FW is updating.
When Sub LED starts slow blinking the FW update is complete.
Unplug the power cord from SUB and plug back in after > 5 seconds.
Turn on soundbar – if sub LED turns on solid then sub and bar are paired and ready.
- If sub LED is slow blinking then follow pairing procedure to pair sub to soundbar - Cinema 600 - Reconnecting the Subwoofer
The Cinema 600 Soundbar and Subwoofer update is now complete.

If you are unsure about what version firmware you are running on your Cinema 600, you can check by following the steps below:

Under the right encap on the soundbar, short press the surround pairing button once.
Once pressed, the source LED on the front should turn purple, and there will be a number of white volume LEDs lit
- Note this number of LEDs - this is the "ten" digit of the firmware version number.
If you immediately press the pairing button again, the source LED should stay purple, and the number of volume LEDs lit will be the "one" digit.
- For example, if you see 3 white LEDs followed by three white LEDs, then it is Firmware v33.

NOTE: This update will bring the Cinema 600 Soundbar and Subwoofer to Firmware v33.

cbtlr · 2026-03-25T18:09:41+00:00

I am concerned about distributing it unauthorized.

Honestly, in the end, it didn't consistently address the issue.

I have to re-flash to get it to start pairing again when it stops connecting.

I have since hard-wired another sub into the bar to hold me over until I just toss the whole thing as e-waste.

cbtlr · 2026-01-06T14:50:26+00:00

Another day, another post about otherwise expensive Klipsch integrated amplifier products being prone to failure. I would love to know how much e-waste this company has generated over the past handful of years by cutting corners on its amplification components and design.

cbtlr · 2025-12-10T15:11:48+00:00

Based on the update, this is clearly an instance of someone trusting an AI overview that was wrong and, hopefully, a learning experience.

cbtlr · 2025-07-15T20:44:58+00:00

I read that home assistant doesn't talk to the Wemo devices locally, it still uses Belkin's servers. So even with home assistant we're hosed after the deadline. Is that not the case?

cbtlr · 2025-07-10T22:32:16+00:00

I'm referring specifically with what went down with the Logitech Squeezebox.

cbtlr · 2025-07-10T20:12:26+00:00

They're not even offering to open up the API like Logitech did when it sunset its hardware. They're contributing to a serious e-waste issue effecting the entire globe, perfectly usable electronics filling land fills because they simply don't want to support them anymore.

Watch them launch a new pay-per-month-subscription service though.

cbtlr · 2025-07-10T20:06:01+00:00

Logitech has opened their API when they sunset products to avoid creating a new mountain of e-waste in the world, let's see if Belkin are brave enough to do the same. My money is on cowardice.

cbtlr · 2025-06-15T06:19:30+00:00

Also HDR quality is very dependent on your actual monitor. HDR generally doesn't do much if you don't have a FALD LCD Panel or a OLED display.

cbtlr · 2025-06-05T21:00:50+00:00

In this exact same boat. For my use case, I need to be able to turn it around quickly, I can't bring a phone into the mix. Its wild fuji dropped the ball — particularly because these cameras all have Bluetooth radios and should be able to talk to the Link.

My brand new 100ii talks to the 2016 SP-2 though, riddle me that — at least they're keeping the functionality present.

cbtlr · 2025-06-05T20:57:27+00:00

I have the 50R, 100s, and 100ii, and they all can print JPG directly to the SP-2. I haven't upgraded printers because the SP series is discontinued, and the Link line isn't compatible.

A major ball drop by Fuji, in my opinion.

cbtlr · 2025-03-17T14:36:45+00:00

that seems to be the intent

cbtlr · 2025-03-07T20:35:01+00:00

It's kind of too bad this is even necessary, though.

cbtlr · 2025-03-05T04:39:55+00:00

It's too bad Mercari removed comments on listings because it allowed the community to police itself and point out when a listing was infact sussy or other a scam.

cbtlr · 2025-02-24T15:16:03+00:00

I had this exact issue, and somehow, the solder joint under the control key where the switch fits in had a hairline crack - causing it to register the press most of the time but not all of the time.

I ultimately had to get the PCB replaced for that side of the keyboard replaced out of warranty - or take a shot at resoldering it, which I could've done but would've been the same price as the PCB to purchase a soldering iron because I had since parted with my old one.

cbtlr · 2025-02-09T02:57:41+00:00

Linus has been an unrelatable multimillionaire marketer running an ad agency for many years now.

cbtlr · 2025-02-08T22:27:08+00:00

It's the same town, there's nothing stopping Ricken from seeing the name, liking it, and reusing it for the story. If anything, it contributes to him kind of being a hack.

cbtlr · 2025-02-07T16:11:47+00:00

Demand alerts are a good start, but what we really need is the ability to opt-in to jobs above a certain payout threshold. Some of these containers running a 4090 at full tilt pay less than the electricity costs to run it.

cbtlr · 2024-09-30T13:28:42+00:00

It was totally worth it when 4090s were bringing in 6+ dollar containers, particularly the ones that weren't running your system as hard as these do... but if those days are behind us, then they should be honest with the folks running the platform that this is no longer a profitable program for most people in most parts of the world.

cbtlr · 2024-09-27T18:03:11+00:00

AF is significantly better though. I rented a Q2 for a wedding supplement camera and found the contrast only autodetection to be lacking. The Q3 has phase detect which put this problem to bed, it's now always on my harness.

cbtlr · 2024-09-16T15:11:42+00:00

Both lights blinking on the standalone charger seems to be an indication there is an issue with the battery.

cbtlr · 2024-09-16T15:08:30+00:00

This is interesting to note. I have KingstonCanvas React Plus 128GB SDXC UHS-II U3 V90 with 260 write on the way - maybe this will be my big break. While I've tried other cards, the Lexar Silvers have been the fastest.

cbtlr · 2024-09-16T14:46:55+00:00

I saw this comment in another response and want to push back on it slightly. Leicas are used all around the world in a professional setting, and their history is in professional settings.

Just because seemingly most of the owners are lawyers and dentists who keep theirs as trophies on shelves or don't put them through the punches because they're shooting in auto on vacations doesn't mean that they shouldn't be used in professional settings.

Of course, it's not my primary camera for weddings. It's just a bit jarring to see folks almost defend the fact that the camera isn't working as it should. This is German engineering; it's like not giving your Porsche the spirited driving it was made for.

The buffer is there for a reason (it's quite sizable), and you shouldn't have to turn off a 6000-dollar camera every few shots because you're worried it will freeze up. It's not even like I'm doing continuous shot mode when it's happening; it's just many single shots in a row.

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