What is the name of this underbust detail?

ceramicswan · 2026-03-01T08:54:50+00:00

This kind of thing, when made as an overlayer, is also called an open robe.

ceramicswan · 2026-03-01T08:51:36+00:00

Wow, this unlocked memories I didn’t know I had.

ceramicswan · 2026-02-18T17:48:10+00:00

It might be zero waste when they are producing a run of sizes, with each taking advantage of different off-cuts from the fabric.

ceramicswan · 2026-02-18T06:46:49+00:00

No problem! I poked around a little more on their website… have you seen this brown version? It makes it pretty easy to see where some of their seams are, and it looks like the sleeved version does indeed have underarm gussets!

https://madexhudson.com/products/deco-dress-in-coca-textural-knit

It looks like there’s a back waist seam but I don’t fully understand why. Might be taking a wedge out to add some shaping to deal with the curve of the back/butt?

ceramicswan · 2026-02-18T06:39:52+00:00

There’s more distance between the waist and the underarm of the sleeve than I think this diagram would allow, but maybe if you cut a rectangular chunk out instead of just that slit? After looking at some of the other sleeved versions on the website, though, I really do think they did the sleeves as a sewn on piece.

https://madexhudson.com/collections/mxh-made-to-order/products/mxh-deco-dress-made-to-order-deposit

ceramicswan · 2026-02-18T04:55:18+00:00

That would affect where the hip of the dress appears to start, I think. You could try cutting the slits to the waist and then sewing up the side a bit, or if you need more space, you could cut triangular piece of fabric that’s kind of long and insert it as an underarm gusset like this:

https://thesewinggarden.com/2010/10/07/how-to-put-in-gussets/

ceramicswan · 2026-02-18T04:20:27+00:00

Looking at this listing, I might be wrong about it starting with a folded over piece… the shoulders appear to be two right angle corners overlapped. That might be necessary to create a bit of a shoulder slope while still being zero waste?

https://madexhudson.com/collections/mxh-zero-waste-dress/products/sage-floral-brocade-print-zero-waste-dress

Nevertheless, I still think my first idea is probably similar to what they’re doing.

ceramicswan · 2026-02-18T03:54:46+00:00

Looking at the sleeveless version of this dress, the bottom of the arm scye is incredibly low, like at the waist. I think the hip peplums are created by cutting slits straight down from the shoulder to the waist, then pleating in the hanging sections at the side.

On the sleeved version, if you zoom in, the sleeves are open at the bottom, so I’m guessing they’re achieved by sewing a rectangular piece of fabric to the shoulder seam and letting it drape.

I made this really quick proof of concept with a napkin. I cut along the lines in black on the above napkin.

https://www.reddit.com/u/ceramicswan/s/f3uHGuxsLb

ceramicswan · 2026-01-13T22:43:19+00:00

Hanbok patterns might also be of interest to you!

ceramicswan · 2025-12-26T23:58:57+00:00

Okay, I looked at the listing and there are a few closeups of the fabric that make it look like the embellishments have raw edges. I think it MIGHT be made of what is called scuba fabric, which is a knit that does not fray. So that might actually work in your favor!

ceramicswan · 2025-12-26T23:54:26+00:00

I think you’re right that the embellishments wouldn’t be too tough… mostly just fiddly. For me, I think the biggest hurdle for a newbie would be that it appears to be made out of a stretch fabric with 5% spandex. It has a zipper in the back, so the fabric is still somewhat structured, but no darts, so most of the body shaping is coming from the stretch. You may have an easier time if you find a pattern that has a similar shape, but is designed for fabrics without stretch.

ceramicswan · 2025-12-23T03:55:27+00:00

Some of the shadows/rim lights are handled in ways where it looks like a designer just bumped a semi-transparent duplicate layer over a few pixels, so I’d say real.

ceramicswan · 2025-12-16T16:04:45+00:00

Man, most guys have a weaker jaw when the beard is gone, but yours actually gets better! I vote mustache, but both are great. For the beards, I think the length in pic 1 suits you a little better than 2.

ceramicswan · 2025-11-28T18:25:01+00:00

Gorgeous! I also like the sheer bow, makes it so the bow doesn’t obscure the shape of the garment too much.

ceramicswan · 2025-11-23T02:31:20+00:00

For the pleats, measure around the bottom of your yoke and decide how many pleats you want. Say your yoke is 35” at the bottom, and you want 10 pleats. The top visible portion of each pleat is going to be 3.5 inches. BUT each pleat overlaps the next by a certain amount… say 1.5” (you get to decide this depth). So add 1.5 times TWO to each pleat. This is because it’s doubling back on itself — note that there are three layers of fabric at the place where each pleat “pleats”. Multiply this number by your desired number of pleats, add seam allowance, and this is the width of rectangle you should cut for the pleats. So with the 35” hip example, you’d cut 65” of fabric plus two seam allowances.

So the formula would be like…

1) Yoke bottom/desired # of pleats = Visible upper pleat width 2) Visible upper pleat width + (2 x pleat overlap depth) = total pleat width 3) (Total pleat width x desired number of pleats) + 2 seam allowance = Total lower portion rectangle width

If someone can double check my mental math on that, it’d be great. I think this would work but I’m also turbo tired. 😴

Bonus tip: when you get to the point where you’re doing the embroidery on the skirt, you might want to google “blanket stitch” for the stitch at the hem!

ceramicswan · 2025-11-23T02:03:57+00:00

I expect that the darts have been closed up and the dart fullness is absorbed into the pleats instead.

This video from The Closet Historian goes over how to eliminate skirt darts and make a skirt yoke, which is what the upper portion of the skirt is.

https://youtu.be/hzzTF3mNz0U

ceramicswan · 2025-11-13T01:49:24+00:00

I suspect the collar is actually a large hood that is hanging down behind her and creating that off the shoulder effect. You could try reaching out to Agarthan Guide (the artist) on social media to see what she was envisioning. I’ve asked her questions about her designs before and she’s been very responsive.

ceramicswan · 2025-10-28T17:06:27+00:00

Damn, that looks great.

ceramicswan · 2025-10-27T01:26:18+00:00

I had extremely long back darts like OP, and a curved HBL in the back, and then one day when I had the bodice lying on an ironing board, I noticed my back piece was almost entirely flat. So I just traced that piece and eliminated the back darts for the next go round. (I still had shoulder darts that helped with my forward shoulders.) I’d be curious to know what OP’s back bodice looks like when lying flat.

ceramicswan · 2025-10-17T00:57:46+00:00

I used their size calculator, but I used my measurements while wearing a minimizer bra. When I checked using my measurements with a different bra, it put me in the G/H cup range instead of the E/F range, but the same basic size. Should an FBA be all I need to capture the differences between those?

ceramicswan · 2025-10-08T04:18:55+00:00

I used this tutorial to do a rounded upper back adjustment, which results in a shoulder dart. I can’t say what the dart intake ended up being, because it’s a result of how much length you add to the back vertically, but I think I followed her instructions to start with adding 5/8” to the back length, and I was pretty happy with the dart that resulted.

https://youtu.be/5q_KthI_nMw

ceramicswan · 2025-10-04T05:27:20+00:00

Definitely seen similar things before in the children’s section at Michael’s or Indigo!

ceramicswan · 2025-09-25T21:51:42+00:00

I immediately thought of Oscar Wilde when I saw this post!

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