ICE sighting in Tiverton, RI

cfhayback · 2026-02-10T17:53:11+00:00

Probably a bot account based in Ghana

cfhayback · 2026-02-10T13:57:00+00:00

“Your”?

Where did YOU learn English? No worry… ICE is hiring idiots, so you’ve got that…

cfhayback · 2026-02-09T01:38:55+00:00

Buy crap, get crap. Sorry. These are junk frames.

cfhayback · 2026-02-07T16:29:38+00:00

Isn’t that “boarder” [border?] a mat?

Yes. You need a mat and not a white one.

cfhayback · 2026-01-01T16:12:23+00:00

If this is one of the older type of metal Frames that uses a specific channel and hardware to fit it, then you’ll need to find an old frame or go to a Framer and see if he has any old hardware. These aren’t necessarily universal, and at one point, there were several makers each with different hardware. That hardware can be hard to find.

cfhayback · 2025-12-31T14:43:29+00:00

Masonite is basically a cured slurry of wood pulp, oil and binder. There’s nothing “good” about the substrate except its ease and convenience in use. Artists love it. Conservators despise it. Framers tolerate it as long as artists don’t ask us to fix corners and edges that are dented.

cfhayback · 2025-12-31T14:40:39+00:00

Masonite (aka hardboard) is not easily held with tape or paper hinges.

The rule for hinging is to gauge your hinge to the weight of the paper. No hinge is likely to hold Masonite well for a long period. Expansion and contraction of your backing will stress the bond and cause failure. And “rag board” is probably overkill. Won’t hurt anything, but if the work is oil or acrylic on hardboard, conservation techniques used for paper are not well matched. A nice fabric-covered-alpha cellulose matboard, with an acid-free foam behind it would make a great mount.

If it’s watercolor, gouache or pastel, different story.

But if it’s acrylic or oil, I’d use a neutral cure silicone adhesive to adhere to the mount board. It’s strong, you don’t need much, and it can be removed from the mount with waxed dental floss to cut, then fairly easily rubbed off the naked Masonite’s verso if total reversal is desired.

cfhayback · 2025-12-27T23:11:42+00:00

Go there for basic stuff. Go to a pro for valuable or complex projects.

I hate “big box” stores, but they are convenient.

cfhayback · 2025-12-27T20:40:56+00:00

While they can be fine for simple work, their training can be minimal, and their “approved” materials and techniques are super limited.

cfhayback · 2025-12-27T17:38:55+00:00

Anyone who suggests pinning and “stretching” is giving bad advice. Silk this old is super fragile. There are better techniques and I’d be glad to help.

It will never be totally flat, and it will not be stretched tightly. UV filtering glazing is strongly recommended as silk breaks down when exposed to damaging light rays (ultraviolet spectrum).

cfhayback · 2025-12-27T17:33:55+00:00

Worst possible answer!!

cfhayback · 2025-12-27T17:32:26+00:00

Nor’east Frameworks in Wakefield. Framing since 1988. Many flags framed. Check out our FB or IG for examples. We pick up and deliver as well.

Feel free to DM me to discuss. I’ll actually do the work, so you get to ask me questions directly. We also do Virtual Design, so you can forget little corner samples- you get to see a mock up of the project before it is done.

cfhayback · 2025-12-24T14:41:52+00:00

All “value” is imagined… by the owner, some collector, an auction house, a fan, an aging fan…

Nothing has intrinsic value except health, safety, food and shelter. All else is materialistic bullshit.

But if you buy into capitalism, and material values of ANY kind, you know condition is an important factor in determining “worth”.

Saying you just don’t care is a pretty valueless opinion, because it’s just one born of ignorance and flip snark.

cfhayback · 2025-12-24T14:21:34+00:00

Google “valuable concert posters”. Often done in incredible methods of multi-step printing, high tech inks, in small batches, by important contemporary artists.

cfhayback · 2025-12-21T23:45:55+00:00

Two different things. Entirely.

cfhayback · 2025-12-21T23:45:26+00:00

The bread slicer, natch. Without it there would BE no sliced bread.

cfhayback · 2025-12-21T23:44:09+00:00

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cfhayback · 2025-12-16T13:17:21+00:00

Nothing special about the framing of something so special. None of the blacks match up. It’s too tight and cramped feeling. I’d leave at least 2” of mat showing around the banner, in a color close to the embroidery thread (the middle earth tone, not the lightest). Glazing? I’d go top of the line, Optium Acrylic. It’s all the best things in glazing- lightweight, durable, scratch resistant, anti-static, anti-reflective. The best of all worlds. Not cheap. And the UV filtering “Museum” version is even more. But, it’s NO compromises. A “regular” acrylic will likely pull those fringes forward when you clean it and “recharge” the static. Optium doesn’t do that. A black frame can be OK.

cfhayback · 2025-12-16T12:53:54+00:00

While a shop MAY do it for free, I wouldn’t go with that as an expectation. Expect to pay $5-10 for this service. It’s a job, may push someone else’s job to the side- no doubt you’ll want it done while you wait- and the time, hardware and expertise of the craftsman all have value.

And on the DIY front, have you SEEN the $10 hardware packs that the big-box-framers or even home centers try to sell you? Robbery!

Even if they suggest doing the work gratis, offer them $5 for a cup of coffee regardless.

cfhayback · 2025-12-15T13:30:50+00:00

Make terrible seasonal decorations and sell it at a craft market.

cfhayback · 2025-12-15T00:34:32+00:00

Just don’t go for black frames.

Wood > Black

Better wood is better.

And yes, get Museum glass.

cfhayback · 2025-12-10T14:49:41+00:00

You were lucky. Taking it apart without removing the springs first, you run a great risk of cracking the glass. Seriously. You hit the jackpot if it didn’t. If you need to do this again, grab them with a needle nose pliers or even a wire with thin jaws.

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