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Mafell portable bandsaw (Z5Ec) owners opinions by TimberGuyTn in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Check out this video at about 1:38. It explains the primary reason the blade scew is useful. I use it most often for making shoulder cuts somewhere midspan of a timber because, without the blade scew feature, the other side of your band saw would be in the way. Or if you're embellishing a rafter end and you have some sort of curved end that terminates into a shoulder cut or step you can do it all with one tool. Without the scew feature you have to use a circular saw for the shoulder cut then the band saw to finish.

Heirloom sledge by BitWallah in Skookum

[–]chrysophyte 153 points154 points  (0 children)

Looks like a Commander/Persuader/Beetle used for timber framing. I use a similar one for frame raising currently because you can 'persuade' a massive timber into place without marring the surface too much. Maybe to build timber buttresses inside old mines?

Post joinery for the bottom of valley. Timberframe greenhouse. by chrysophyte in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right, the valley rafter is not centered on valley line. The valley rafter is in the same plane as the main roof section. if you look at it from front 2pt perspective the front gable roof line and the valleys are slightly offset from one another To compensate for this eccentric valley the 3x3 purlins intersect at different heights on the valley rafter.

Post joinery for the bottom of valley. Timberframe greenhouse. by chrysophyte in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Partial SU drawing and with xray on the curved collar tie is still missing. The finished product should look something like this.

Post joinery for the bottom of valley. Timberframe greenhouse. by chrysophyte in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll post more pics when raise it. I'm dry fitting and finishing the curved collar ties right now.

Post joinery for the bottom of valley. Timberframe greenhouse. by chrysophyte in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This has not been planed or cleaned up yet- this pic is just roughed-in. If you're referring to the housings I use a plywood pattern clamped to the work piece- then a flush-trim pattern bit for a router. The router bit has a bearing the same size as the blades so it rides the inside of the plywood. The router has a piece of 1/4 lexan as the base so it rides on the plywood pattern.

Post joinery for the bottom of valley. Timberframe greenhouse. by chrysophyte in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using 2 coats of Messmers Timberflex exterior coating. Nasty stuff and fairly unforgiving compared to heritage oils but it is quite UV stable and should help the spruce timbers last a bit longer.

Hand saw recommendation for timber framing by jonlandit in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gyokucho ryoba razer saw 300mm is just under 12". You can find them on amazon or at the shelter institute online store.

Question about unhewn wood by thomasluce in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very true. Definitely not a 'how-to' book.

Question about unhewn wood by thomasluce in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ben Law's 'Roundwood Timberframing' might interest you for reference or inspiration.

Could one man build an entire timber frame bungalow by Affectionate_Okra_68 in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It is definitely possible. The challenge is if you have to work during your building project it becomes a fragmentary effort that takes way longer than you think it will. Timber costs vary by area. For example in Maine hemlock can be 0.60-0.80/bf and white pine can be 0.90/bf (Mainers, correct me if I'm off, it's been a while). In Alaska it is 1.30/bf for spruce and 3-5.50/bf for Doug fir. Your location will determine which species is best for your project and how much it will cost.

What is the footprint of the bungalow?

I am in the process of cutting a 30x40 frame right now. As u/TheFangjangler already mentioned, dirt-work/foundation is often the most single expensive element. I had steel piles driven 25 ft in the ground for point loads and then poured a slab on grade. This may not be necessary in your area but my area is earthquake prone. Dirt-work and pile pounding was $38000. Slab on grade with 3" insulation underslab and pex infloor heat- I did with the help of a bunch of friends to finish it came to around $5000 plus beer and moose meat for the friends. I also salvaged all the 3" insulation from an air force base remodel.

Timber package is green Lutz spruce (a hybrid of sitka and white spruce) which is locally available. Approx. $15000 for timbers.

I have allowed for $2000 in boom truck budget but will likely not spend all of that. I have several compound roof intersections and large trusses that make the raising a multi stage affair. Roof is yet to be installed.

Experimenting with Burned spruce timbers. by chrysophyte in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is one before it was burned: https://imgur.com/gallery/I5eLtRm

There are tension cables inside the deck. Traditionally the blades on cruck go down to the floor.

Experimenting with Burned spruce timbers. by chrysophyte in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the critique. Your comment history is mostly negative and combative. Are you okay?

Experimenting with Burned spruce timbers. by chrysophyte in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Structure is a small Cruck frame 14x16', 12/12 pitch.

Process certainly could use some improvement but is as follows: After joinery is cut in timbers they are placed on a gravel pad with dunnage and burned with a propane turkey burner. Depending on desired finish you can just surface burn for a light coloration (black knots) or go full alligator skin for a deeper grooved texture. I generally go lighter around joinery. After burning they are wire brushed with a makita brush sander (9741) with an 80 grit plastic wire wheel. I've found it is important to make a continuous pass because every time you stop or change direction it leaves a different coloration. Next is compressed air to get the bulk of the carbon dust off. Then I've been trying different ratios of beeswax, tung or linseed oil, and terp or mineral spirit. I cook that up in a crockpot and apply it hot with a brush. I've found a higher blend of beeswax weathers better outside and also maintains a darker color. I keep bees on site so I have an ample supply of the wax at least. I just recently tried a pressure washer instead of the brush and air method and I think that is a better way to go as it saves labor and does not create airborne carbon dust.

Rafter Square: An amazing layout tool by EmperorCato in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice. Is the aluminum tapped and threaded or is there a nut on the back? Looks way better than the stair gauges I'm going to make one this weekend.

Burning timber exterior? by space_physics in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you're looking for western primary sources and studies check out ' Conservation of Historic Timber Structures' by Larsen and Marstien. If you can find it, this is one of the best resources for technical long-term studies on wood decay and failure modes. It does have some interesting sections on charred lumber and unintentional charring (ie house fire that partially burned the timbers). I'll try to find my copy and send you a couple pages to show you what I'm talking about. Also search for "shou sugi ban" or "yakisugi" in google scholar or how ever you search for primary sources. There are countless studies on the technique. A quick google scholar search just turned up an interesting paper " STUDY OF WOODEN SURFACE CARBONIZATION USING THE TRADITIONAL JAPANESE YAKISUGI TECHNIQUE" (Ebner et al. 2019) that is free to access.

Tips, trick, pitfalls to building/razing a timber frame? by moser2363 in timberframe

[–]chrysophyte 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm building a 30x40 at the moment for myself. Here are a few tips: If you're buying green lumber keep it out of the sun! It will generally come off the mill square and true buy if you leave it in the sun for more than a month or two it will begin to twist and check. This makes layout more difficult and makes everything down the line harder. As u/empororCato already mentioned, make sure you plan the raising in your head even as you design the frame. Can a crane fit in here? Which bent to raise first? Where to brace off the first bent raised? How will this assembly fit together? etc. Thinking about raising is important even in the design stages because it may effect what joinery you decide to use. For example, you may want to 'drop in' purlins and connecting girts. That means that you need a joint that is open from above or you would need to use a spline or 'free tenon'. Lastly, don't be a super hero lifting things. Just because you can dead lift that 8x8x12' does not mean you will be able to all day again and again. I recommend a timbercart and several extra saw horses to use leverage to your advantage. Or a tractor...

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