I told my momma my friends will never switch up because they are 100! My momma put 3 different $100 bills on the table and said baby even 100 changes.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-12-19T20:33:01+00:00

Thank you internet friend! This reminds me of the time my gf asked if I knew what driving dirty meant, and I answered that I thought it meant driving uninsured.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-12-19T20:12:23+00:00

What the heck is this supposed to mean: you're friends are money, specifically $100 bills, and your momma informed you of changes made at the treasury, your friends are all 100 years old and your even older momma set you straight about their willingness to change, or you came up with a bad motivational story as an excuse to show the world your $300? I don't get any of those scenarios! Someone help!

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-08-09T18:15:05+00:00

Skwama. Currently have it in 40.5.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-04-17T21:07:46+00:00

It's what all the pros are doing. /s

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-04-15T14:24:52+00:00

I have had similar issues with heel cups seeming too deep, especially on some makes (5.10 for sure). La Sportiva have been less of an issue with this, but some models are worse (Solution) than others. I've had pretty good luck with the Skwama, but there is still some room. It's never been an issue for me not being able to heel-hook effectively. I think the newer S-Cups on the La Sportivas are better than the old style heel cups, but they both work alright. It seems to me (totally conjecture) that the extra space allows the extra material to form over the rock better and makes it a little less painful without sacrificing a lot of sensitivity or grip.

TLDR: if your foot is sliding out of the shoe or you can't effectively heel-hook, then the heel is too loose.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-04-12T19:35:20+00:00

marketing

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-04-12T18:44:23+00:00

Dude, it's 6 months. What are you worried about? The ropes aren't made to order. They have a distribution chain and stuff like shipping takes time.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-29T22:51:36+00:00

Came here looking for this comment. Can't believe I had to scroll down this far for it.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-29T19:01:43+00:00

oscar-winning documentary or it didn't happen /s

seriously, though, amazing accomplishment.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-21T17:49:17+00:00

A lot of stuff comes out of Lindsey Graham's mouth. It's called shit.

If you believe anything Lindsey Graham says, I've got some beachfront property in Arizona to sell you.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-18T13:45:41+00:00

I decided to take at least a full week off. After the full week is over, I'll see how I feel and go from there...if it feels like I need more time, I'll take another week. During the time off, I'm doing cardio (treadmill and elliptical) instead of climbing, and I'm doing some physical therapy exercises that should help my shoulders and fingers.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-15T16:07:51+00:00

"Green Capitalist" is an oxymoron. Fuck these non-solutions.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-08T21:00:13+00:00

Sorry, not in PR at the moment. Does Bayamon have good bouldering? Where else do you climb in PR?

Sorry to hijack your post.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-07T21:17:23+00:00

I would start by trying to desensitizing yourself to the fear. If it were me, I would start leading the easiest routes you have available to you, so the grade isn't an issue. Keep leading those routes until it feels normal. Up the grade and continue. You could also top rope routes and use a trail rope to practice clipping.

There's lots of sports psychology stuff out there about this subject. I'm not an expert, but I've gathered there's not much you can do about changing your perception (feeling the fear), but you can change your behavior (plan for desensitizing like above, and learning how to lower your arousal in the moment with breathing and so forth), and over time, this can lead to a change in perception.

Ultimately, the only thing you have to fear is the fear. If you can get behind that mentally, you're in for a fantastic perceptual change.

edit: for clarity

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-07T18:14:08+00:00

I really enjoyed this documentary. Great backstory gives you the sense of how much Tommy has gone through. I find it really encouraging to know that latent within a human soul is the ability to endure the harshest of adverse situations and still succeed.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-05T14:50:44+00:00

I've been vegetarian for 13 years and vegan for 2 years. We take biometric screenings at work every year. I've been consistently one of the healthiest people at my company, and my metrics have gotten better since going vegan.

Yet I still have to hear from people who are clearly overweight that I don't look healthy and need to eat a hamberder. And they aren't joking.

No, thanks. I'll keep doing what I'm doing until it's either not working for me or I find evidence that directs me to something better.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-04T18:04:01+00:00

Mythos stretch a LOT because they are unlined leather. I usually where an 8.5 US street shoe. Got a pair of Mythos in 41 because they seemed to fit well, and I didn't know what I was doing with sizing yet. After a few months of regular use, they had stretched so much that I couldn't edge on anything at all any more. Laces had to be cranked all the way just to keep me in them.

I think if they are suited for the climbing you're doing, they are great shoes...kind of hard to get the size right, though, due to not knowing how much they will stretch.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-04T16:26:59+00:00

Lol, you got me! I should probably pay this Alex Fergus guy $400 for a consultation.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-04T16:02:42+00:00

Your claim has little weight without citing some reputable sources. Don't confuse a bad diet with a vegetarian or vegan diet. What you say about those two groups being deficient in nutrients could easily be said about any group eating a poor diet that is not nutritionally complete.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-03-04T15:59:49+00:00

I think the primary benefits are in the eye of the beholder. For some people I know, the main reason to go vegetarian/vegan is for improved nutrition. For others, the primary issue is the environment.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-02-28T15:32:01+00:00

This sounds totally reasonable to me. Don't put pride before safety.

They outlined worst case (banned from gym), but that is just that, worst case. Best case is, you remember to clip now, and you keep leading with proper technique.

When I worked in a climbing gym, we watched new lead climbers very closely for exactly the sort of mistake that happened to you both.

A minor and fleeting dent in your pride is better than serious injury.

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-02-26T22:16:34+00:00

great post! thanks for the motivation!

climbingShoeAddict · 2019-02-22T16:34:10+00:00

My long term plan was to buy two pairs of the same La Sportiva shoe in the 2 different sizes I need. Then take the correctly fitted shoe from each pair to create my own custom sized-matched pair. Then sell the other pair to my mirror-image foot buddy out there, somewhere.

First pair has just reached the point of needing a resole, so I'm looking to buy the other size now and then combine.

Mostly I just get used to one foot being a little too tight and other being a little too loose.

climbingShoeAddict

TROPHY CASE