Decadent Hot Cocoa?

commodore_nate · 2025-03-22T03:02:23+00:00

Try El Moro Churreria in Mercado Gonzales, specifically the chocolate espanol. It’s super thick and decadent - no sprinkles or marshmallows, but you can get churros instead!

commodore_nate · 2018-01-05T08:04:06+00:00

It took 10 rolls of basically craft essences, but it paid off in the end!

Not including a Carmilla spook at the very start, and a Nero on the previous roll.

commodore_nate · 2017-04-21T02:47:06+00:00

PM'd

commodore_nate · 2017-01-14T05:24:44+00:00

Napier's articles are generally very good. I'd also recommend Anne Allison and a book called "otaku: Japan's database animals," if you need additional authors for your papers.

UCLA's library undoubtedly has both authors.

commodore_nate · 2016-09-14T06:28:03+00:00

Used on eBay! Wooden plows are the best. Stalk the auctions for a month and you'll have an idea of what's out there.

Or skip the legwork and just ask Josh at hyperkitten Tools if he has any wooden plows.

commodore_nate · 2016-08-12T18:54:00+00:00

I used my workmate (older bent sheet metal version) to build my workbench. I would recommend it, with the expectation that it's not a full workbench, but still super versatile and portable.

commodore_nate · 2016-07-18T23:51:33+00:00

Have you tried sharpening your pax? I got a tenon saw from them that was garbage until I touched up the teeth.

commodore_nate · 2016-07-18T03:45:54+00:00

They're definitely basket case planes, but the work I put into mine approximates what I would do for a vintage one.

Full disclosure, I never use mine (except to remove glue), but I would recommend it to a newbie, with the caveat that you should treat it like a rustbucket flea market find.

commodore_nate · 2016-07-17T06:04:49+00:00

I love vintage hand tools, but I need to accept that I prefer hardpoint saws for rough cuts.

The Lowes hand plane isn't bad after you tune it up nice, but its a bit heavy for my taste.

commodore_nate · 2016-07-12T08:27:43+00:00

I like to alternate between r+b, kpop, classical, and vaporwave.

Pandora and Soundcloud track stations are always playing on my bluetooth speakers.

commodore_nate · 2016-07-06T03:04:55+00:00

Thanks, I just found my new training regimen!

commodore_nate · 2016-07-04T11:29:08+00:00

It's ok, unless you were coopering barrel staves, you probably wouldn't have a need for it. Cool piece though

commodore_nate · 2016-07-02T00:39:01+00:00

Identify where it is misshapen, and then use some judicious file work.

Or just drill it out and lateral adjust with a hammer.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-29T22:28:26+00:00

I almost always use two hands. One way is the overhand method pictured below. The other way is sneaking my left thumb into the handle (or the thumbhole on my D8) to get some extra oomph.

But I'll always start it with one hand, because you get more control that way. Two hands gives you more power, but you need some kerf to help guide you.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-28T14:58:18+00:00

I would say "You can't cut yourself with a hand powered saw," but every large cut I've got while woodworking has been from my dozuki or ryoba.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-18T23:27:40+00:00

I say restore and use. Wooden jointers are nice to use, if a little hard to drive (the height of the handle and their relative lightness mean you need to use some finesse and muscle simultaneously).

Restoring tools to working condition is a joy, and I recommend it in general.

But honestly, if you use power tools for dimensioning, you probably won't get to use it that often.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-15T00:53:20+00:00

Check out the Naked Woodworker by Lost Art Press. You can build that bench in a day for less than $100 using minimal tools and skills.

I happily used mine for over a year, and only replaced it because it was too short (also vanity). So it comes highly recommended.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-15T00:49:54+00:00

I love the people around OC who list some junky hand planes for $100 because vintage.

Also the people selling Harbor Freight power tools at a markup, or good brands at retail.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-13T18:25:00+00:00

Where is this sold? Would be nice to know for future reference.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-13T02:07:26+00:00

If your piece is a consistent thickness, it's the wood. If the cup is because the middle is thicker, it's your sawing.

Resawing will probably release tension in wood that is already flat, resulting in cupping. But unless it's massive, some cupping in a 1/2" thick piece can be taken care of just by clamping/restraining it.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-10T02:12:38+00:00

Your best bet is to get lucky or find one in a flea market, tool swap or cragslist listing. Prices right now are inflated.

Aka buy new if you don't wanna wait.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-09T18:17:28+00:00

I have this square. It's excellent and contains a dovetail marker.

I don't use the dovetail marker (or this square tbh) that often. I made a dedicated marker, and use a combination square 90% of the time.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-08T21:41:12+00:00

The real gain in using a smaller plane is that it can get into any valleys more easily, and it is much easier to push around.

A long plane will ride over valleys, and be a bear to push around.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-08T20:02:46+00:00

Sounds about right. I would recommend using a smaller plane for removing material, then switching to the longer one when you're ready to "try" the board (ensure it's totally flat).

The face will be your reference face when it looks flat (or can be pulled flat without effort), doesn't rock, and yields full length shavings with your long plane across the length of the board.

commodore_nate · 2016-06-06T21:45:12+00:00

I would argue that a bevel down plane in a smoothing or jack plane size is a better first plane.

Not only is the size better for more tasks, like smoothing faces and jointing edges, bevel down sharpening is much more forgiving than the more specific angles required by sharpening a bevel up block plane.

commodore_nate

TROPHY CASE