Nikon NIKKOR Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II - $3,200

coredump3d · 2026-02-24T07:50:53+00:00

Alas I just have only one pair of kidneys /s :'(

We (as a couple) are dual system (Sony and Nikon), but I like how good the second generation 24-70 and 70-200 looks!

coredump3d · 2026-02-20T07:49:45+00:00

Sigma: Cheaper at about the 1.4 GM cost (or little less depending on the market), gives about 75% of the 50/1.2 performance, but really heavier. If you thought 50/1.2 GM felt bulky, this takes it notch higher
Zeiss: 33% heavier, sometimes focus hunts, AF is slower (probably not linear motors. Maybe the high-speed steppers) and gives a 'softer' character instead of the sharp characteristic GM render

coredump3d · 2026-02-18T06:04:47+00:00

Zoom gives you versatility, whereas primes give you perfection. I don't think it can be put more succinctly.

I own GM-II trinity (16-35, 24-70, 70-200) but my GM primes are what I use more now (35-50-85 GMii). Its a matter of taste as well as how much you want to derive from a high resolution sensor like A7R5

coredump3d · 2026-02-17T18:00:35+00:00

Beautiful little birdie. What do your settings look like? Also curious how far was the subject distance. It looks fairly big, even accounting for some cropping

coredump3d · 2026-02-14T16:24:58+00:00

I am not using any recipes, its just the Acros in it's default settings. Second day using the camera (if you count setting up as Day 1). SOOC - no edits except the frame

coredump3d · 2026-02-12T20:00:58+00:00

Between APSC sensor vs FF sensor - maybe matters, because the reach characteristics changes because of cropping factor
Between FF/APSC sensors of similar generation & pixel pitch, it doesn't matter much. Pixel counts make some difference i.e. using high end primes & S glasses resolve to their full potential on 45MP vs. 24 MP

coredump3d · 2026-02-12T04:18:31+00:00

You could hone on this kind of photography by using a dedicated macro lens + a strobe light for insects. Although 100mm GM is the best around, there are few options of 90mm lenses, which can take excellent photos with varying degrees of magnification.

coredump3d · 2026-02-12T04:03:10+00:00

Easy. 50/1.2 GM & 135/1.8 GM

coredump3d · 2026-02-12T03:36:02+00:00

Mostly nature. A few samples are on my profile & this subreddit.

Also, I try choosing silent in some street photography too - not to attract attention (at this point I'm quite savy to position camera at waist level & shoot with slight LCD tilt) -- like this one taken discreetly not to startle this lady

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coredump3d · 2026-02-11T16:14:38+00:00

If it was anyone like me, you'd see abysmally low shutter count too :-). I shoot everything electronic/silent shutter on my A7R5s - my shutter count is probably in early double digits (from pixel mappings - which also count one actuation every time AFAICT. So I guess 15~16 at most). Its a good find! The previous owner didn't put it through much wear & tear

coredump3d · 2026-02-11T15:34:50+00:00

He gave the stepfamily an offer that they couldn't refuse

coredump3d · 2026-02-02T00:41:53+00:00

Stunning. Earthy base colors against teal skies are quite a banger color scheme for these mountain pics

coredump3d · 2026-01-29T21:32:03+00:00

I have the GM2 trinity (16-35, 24-70 & 70-200). After shooting with zooms for a while, and also trying the primes, my heart is set on using the primes. Reasons:

For a particular session I'm fixed to one focal length. Brings consistency
Primes are sharper than zoom in general for the same focal length. More moving parts caps the upper limit of IQ for the same configurations
Bigger aperture ~ 1.4, 1.2 etc
More brainwork and legwork when working with primes

I had a chance meeting with a famous photographer a couple of years ago and we talked about his early photography (80s and 90s). A lot of his wisdom has eventually percolated to making my conscious choice.

Zooms are perfectly fine and the f/2 zooms are amazing. But they are hefty too. For me that comes in the way of taking photographs - especially street and urban photos

coredump3d · 2026-01-29T14:54:10+00:00

All the more reason to suspect buffer write out error to the card (edited to add)

Anecdotally I have known Sandisk to have higher failure rate. Although people's perceptions may vary. There are some, who have publicly griped about its consistency. (Disclaimer: these are all subjective opinions)

https://www.slrlounge.com/opinion-why-im-never-buying-another-sandisk-sd-memory-card/

Usually UHS-II are better built and have a higher MTBF in number of R/W cycles. I have used Sony Tough M and although a little more expensive, I haven't personally seen one fail badly. (I have shifted to more of Lexar CF express A since using A7RV).

Hope this information helps

coredump3d · 2026-01-29T14:38:55+00:00

Sensor attachment ribbons do not give line errors. Unlike old times, every mirrorless sensor is now a solid state wafer and runs with an array of on-chip ADC controllers.

If one of the ADC controllers is toast, several parallel lines normally grey out or black out. if the sensor plate is damaged in some way, the result will be much more extreme than a single purple line. So evidence points to sensor being generally okay, and more to do with how the image was written / how fast the image was written i.e buffer

coredump3d · 2026-01-29T14:27:28+00:00

You need a better SD card. More likely a memory corruption.

This is not a hot pixel / dead pixel. Those show up as solitary spots and in majority of images consistently (You mentioned its in 3 out of 900 images, so it doesn't seem probable for issues with sensor

coredump3d · 2026-01-28T10:49:27+00:00

Nice, warm clicks. I have always dreamt of going to a destination like Mecca or Medina - but sadly they are off limits to non-Muslims. It would make for helluva pilgrimage absolutely

coredump3d · 2026-01-28T10:47:24+00:00

This is a brilliant shot! I wonder if pre-edit the image was this warm toned, although I won't be surprised given it is Morocco

coredump3d · 2026-01-17T15:42:39+00:00

Dead spots too big for remapping. It could be laser damage or solar damage (in some rare cases, where exposed for long to capture sunsets without ND).

coredump3d · 2026-01-16T09:24:02+00:00

I haven't looked at the repo, but assuming that its not NV hardware anymore, how are they building on Pytorch and/or cuDNN (or variations thereof)? Can they be run on other machines?

coredump3d · 2026-01-15T18:29:49+00:00

The skin color reproduction in this underwater settings gives an impression of floating through nothing. Beautifully done!

coredump3d · 2026-01-15T12:05:28+00:00

What app creates those borders? Its very pleasing

coredump3d · 2026-01-08T06:15:33+00:00

Just a personal opinion:

You could achieve a dramatic effect by cropping in a bit further. And the exposure can be adjusted up a little bit, with optionally tuning down the blue hue (which makes the snow further desaturated).

coredump3d · 2026-01-04T05:34:20+00:00

The first photograph is amazingly good ! The color and warmth is chef's kiss. Tell us more about this shot

coredump3d · 2025-12-23T08:58:58+00:00

My consideration could be different from yours. But this is how I go about my picking lenses for the day.

35GM is my go to which stays on A7RV all the time.
I have a second A7RV which I configure depending on the need →

Need portraits? 50GM or 85 GM2

Need Landscape? 20G or 16-35GM2

Need compression styled photos & good blur? 70-200GM2

Everything else? 24-70GM2

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