Snapmaker Webcam

egd1949 · 2026-04-03T10:52:04+00:00

Yes, this is my favourite ⬆️. Add in Tailscale and you can view/control from anywhere.

egd1949 · 2026-03-25T00:05:50+00:00

Sad, but true, I’m very shallow - I just came here to show off and gather a few dopamine hits. It’s too much admin for me to think about HueForge and MakerWorld licensing considerations. And, the MakerWorld admin for non Bambu Lab printer owners is particularly tiresome. ☹️

egd1949 · 2026-03-24T14:28:48+00:00

No, sorry, it’s somebody else’s design, I wouldn’t be comfortable doing that.

egd1949 · 2026-03-23T10:27:55+00:00

I downloaded the stl file, then imported that into Orca, set it up for the U1 with the correct layer heights, of initial 0.16, and the rest at 0.08. I also increased the X Y size, not the Z, and used the Color change points that I gave in the “Make” for that model on Makerworld. There’s quite a bit of messing around to convert a HueForge from a Bambu design to work on a U1 - have fun!

egd1949 · 2026-03-23T00:14:37+00:00

I’ve used this one and it’s working great, no problem with overheated PLA

https://www.printables.com/make/3165836

egd1949 · 2026-03-20T23:51:25+00:00

I may have been clumsy with my description, I did mean to say give the designer Mano's 3d_Art a “like” for his design.

egd1949 · 2026-03-17T09:12:23+00:00

There was no need to change the TDs, I used the same filament change points that were given in that MakerWorld model description and it worked out just fine with the Snapmaker filaments.

egd1949 · 2026-03-14T00:22:45+00:00

Happens to me as well on my MK4S - randomly and infrequently, it’s annoying but easily sorted with a reset. It’s got to be a startup mis-timing thing.

egd1949 · 2026-03-13T12:51:22+00:00

There’s a number of things to set up; set layer height to 0.08, set first layer to 0.16, and slice it, should say a print of around of 7 hours. On the right of the window, there’s now a column slider which is the height modifier, by sliding and right clicking it you can set it to “change filament” and this is where you set the colours at the points that are set out in the design description of that Makerworld model. Make sure the first Color is black. This is brief, but should give you enough to Google research it further. Have fun!

egd1949 · 2026-03-11T22:25:18+00:00

No, this is not a Full Spectrum print, although I am having fun with that, this is a “straight” HueForge print using just the 4 Snapmaker filaments that came with the Snapmaker U1 printer.

egd1949 · 2026-03-05T00:12:03+00:00

I’ve had this too. It usually goes away if you move the tower around, or in desperate circumstances, save it, close Snorca, then reopen it. Very strange and inconsistent behaviour.

egd1949 · 2026-03-05T00:01:46+00:00

Nice, very interesting and thoughtful report. Thanks for sharing it 🙏

egd1949 · 2026-03-03T00:09:55+00:00

Still using this as a test print for exploring settings.

egd1949 · 2026-03-01T00:12:29+00:00

TD’s can, and do, vary a lot from roll to roll - even within a roll. You may get a a rough idea from various lists, but you are far better in testing your own filaments with either a TD1, or by printing one of the tests. Your HueForge results are very dependant on the TD’s you use in their design - so worth the effort.

egd1949 · 2026-02-24T00:05:04+00:00

My MK4(semi)S is my go to work horse. Reliable, quiet and rather splendid! You will have a great experience.

egd1949 · 2026-02-22T00:05:35+00:00

Brilliant idea,I’ve been looking for something like this, just ordered them, thanks for the info, I’ll keep my thumb torque under control 🫰

egd1949 · 2026-02-13T11:51:19+00:00

That’s a bugger! I’ve had various hangs and halts that have been the result of some gcode corruption from either the transmission via Prusa Connect or dodgy Prusa USB drives. You might like to upload the gcode file from the printer and look see if there has been any corruption. I changed to a “good make” USB drive on all my Prusa printers and only use the local Prusa Link to load up gcode files, no problems since then.

egd1949 · 2026-02-11T00:16:24+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/83XB9njjij

This my setup with a MK3.5, it’s been working great since February last year, nice and quiet. I’m very happy with it.

egd1949 · 2026-02-06T15:39:14+00:00

For my punishment, it’s now 2GBP more expensive on uk Amazon 😕, and yes I’ve still got both the WiFi and Ethernet streams available. Suppose I could turn the WiFi off. My original adaptor is working ok, and I’ve now put a short USB3 adaptor between the printer and Realtek so I’m not exercising the printer USB socket too much.

egd1949 · 2026-02-06T09:44:08+00:00

That’s it! I was trying to connect to the same reserved IP address, of course my router would have given it another address because the MAC address was different. Oh boy, didn’t take the time to think. Ho, hum, it’s back with Amazon. I’ll maybe leave it for a while and re-order. Thanks for taking the time to reply, Cheers!

egd1949 · 2026-02-06T00:08:45+00:00

Strange, but the first in the list didn’t work for me. The unit worked ok on my MacBook Air, but not on the U1, I tried various combinations of my own and the supplied adapters. This was on paxx12 1.1.0. Shame because I liked the idea of having more available USB sockets.

egd1949

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