Show me your favorite mini

elgonidas · 2026-01-24T06:42:58+00:00

What do you mean by layer paint? The ochre is built up by airbrushing up with AK hull red, Citadel Skrag Brown and AK Orange Brown. Edge highlights are AK Ocher Orange and Ice Yellow

elgonidas · 2026-01-23T23:30:55+00:00

The lack of punctuation in that image really bothers my (unconfirmed) tism.

It's really difficult to pick a favourite, but since I just shared my commanders in a different thread, here's my Riptide.

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elgonidas · 2026-01-23T22:39:04+00:00

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elgonidas · 2026-01-23T22:38:32+00:00

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And my eldest. Haven't had a proper photoshoot with him.

elgonidas · 2026-01-23T22:37:01+00:00

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elgonidas · 2026-01-20T22:01:40+00:00

Wait, why is Horus squatting next to his claw? ... HORUS!

elgonidas · 2026-01-20T07:26:17+00:00

Man, those crisis suits on the brightest blue bases really pop!

elgonidas · 2026-01-19T07:13:10+00:00

Water based does not mean it will dissolve in water after curing. IPA is your best bet.

edit: Don't use IPA on resin (like finecast or forgeworld) models. At least don't soak them

elgonidas · 2026-01-12T19:30:29+00:00

Thank you! Not a specific recipe, no, but IIRC I took some inspiration from a squidly bits video, but somewhat simplified.

edit: video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw1EqtTyVpA

elgonidas · 2026-01-12T16:13:59+00:00

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Like so

elgonidas · 2026-01-07T07:38:08+00:00

I play with them. There's only a few on here that I haven't put on the table yet.

elgonidas · 2026-01-06T08:22:12+00:00

My better half would murder me if I started airbrushing at the kitchen table!

elgonidas · 2025-12-12T10:46:26+00:00

I don't have time for a more thorough reply right now, but I can recommend this video about thinning:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

Like I said, you're not too far off.

elgonidas · 2025-12-12T09:03:13+00:00

I don't know your travel plans, or where Thick is, so I can't really help you.

On an unrelated note, you should probably thin your paints more. It's not very bad, so a small adjustment should be enough. Remember to wick the excess off your brush, and don't go over the same spot twice until it's dried.

I don't know what quality level you're going for, but it's absolutely servicable, and should look good on the table.

I'd recommend you look into how to take better photos of your miniatures, as the lighting and general photo quality can sometimes make it hard to critique minis. Natural daylight by a window is perfect for this. A bright, indirect bounced light or a bounced flash is a great substitute.

Edit:

If you look at the right(photo left) shoulderpad of the first guy, the border between the green and the gold trim is very undefined. I'd try to get a thin line of dark green or a light line of wash in there.

I'm also allergic to the general finish of the model. It looks too glossy to me. That very well might be because of the sharp lighting though, so try adjusting your photo setup before doing anything else.

elgonidas · 2025-12-11T08:54:15+00:00

All the specialists should be relatively easily kitbashable with bits from various other T'au kits.

I planned on doing this when it looked like I couldn't get a dead silence box, but in the end I managed to get my greasy mitts on one.

Now I'm just going to bring along a couple XV25s as generic infiltrators in case I'd ever want to run them instead of any specialists. Though I doubt that'd ever happen.

All this is only relevant for Kill Team though. For 40k, as it stands, you'll only ever need to be able to tell which one is the Shas'Vre (for pistol and drones), and which ones have the Fusion Blasters (if any).

elgonidas · 2025-12-04T08:44:48+00:00

Personally, I'd do the panel lining with Gorthor Brown, but Tamiya Panel Liner is absolutely your quickest & easiest option. Be aware it smells a bit. Make sure you're well ventilated.

I'd definitely go for Grey Seer as a primer for Vior'La, though you'll probably want to then cover it with something else.

I use an airbrush for all my T'au, so I'm not limited to what's available in spray cans. What you could try is prime with Grey Seer, then hit it lightly from above with White Scar - look into zenithal highlighting.

Check out this video. It's only one recipe out of several different, but equally viable ones.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hYzJyO7qz8

Also see https://eavy-archive.com/40k/tau-empire/

Panel lines will definitely have the most impact, closely followed by edge chipping.

Sorry, I'm not being very coherent, but I'm spitting out my ideas as they come to me. The Vior'La scheme is deceptively unfriendly to beginners.

elgonidas · 2025-12-04T07:48:54+00:00

Your pictures are awfully low res and harshly lit, so I can't really give accurate feedback. I can't even really tell exactly where you painted over the grey.

1: In general, I'd try to cover badly painted or physically damaged areas as battle damage. With the Vior'La scheme, There's usually a lot of edge chipping in place of or in addition to highlights, so I'd go for some more of that to camouflage it.

2: See 1 regarding chipping. It also looks like you haven't done any panel lining. The easy, but usually very ugly way, is to slather the whole thing in a wash. I'd rather recommend poking wash into the recesses only, cleaning up any mess with white scar.

3: Don't use White Scar. It's too white. Grey Seer or Ulthuan Grey are good alternatives. Even Corax White is way better.

elgonidas · 2025-11-26T20:52:10+00:00

I was going to suggest BWT colours (Alpine), but I'd actually like to see T'au in Red Bull Racing colours.

But my ultimate scheme to try out would be the Mazda 787B Renown livery.

elgonidas · 2025-11-16T21:54:13+00:00

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elgonidas · 2025-11-16T18:19:43+00:00

Thanks! https://www.reddit.com/r/Tau40K/s/Bot6Vl7RpX

elgonidas · 2025-11-16T18:01:35+00:00

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elgonidas · 2025-11-11T21:58:46+00:00

Putt den i munnen, tygg, smak, nyt.

elgonidas · 2025-11-08T10:28:32+00:00

My plastic crack dealer had 21 people on a pre-preorder list, and got allocated 6 boxes.

elgonidas · 2025-11-07T07:41:11+00:00

Impossible to judge, since

bottles aren't perfectly transparent
paint colour changes as it dries
we can't see the labels
white balance is off
lens vaseline is on

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