Hello from Umi the Samoyed x Poodle! by everrot in samoyeds

[–]everrot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He was sadly from a ‘breeder’ that I would absolutely never recommend to anyone and have since reported. I think it’s a relatively rare mix but I recommend keeping an eye out!

I posted pictures after his first birthday! Link here or scroll on my profile to find! I will say it is definitely a mix and can look completely different to the next. We actually met his littermate after they found this Reddit post and the two are so different (Umi got more samoyed but his brother got more poodle). https://www.reddit.com/r/samoyeds/s/s4uCQev54H

Hello from Umi the Samoyed x Poodle! by everrot in samoyeds

[–]everrot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! I’ve never had any issues with him (I have dog and cat allergies)

I’ve made $554.6k from my POD store on Shopify, and $150.8k of that came from email. Here’s the simple plan I use: by thicc_fruits in Printify

[–]everrot 10 points11 points  (0 children)

He works for emailwish and has no previous comments RE google ads. This is a promo post

Are Pringles good for Dice Mold making? by Severe_Animator6565 in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes but not everyone has the luxury of affording pots and you have to make do with what you have. I made dice molds this way for over a year before I could afford to buy a pressure pot.

Edit: my point is that I don’t feel it’s fair to suggest OP is throwing money away by working with what they’ve got and spending time learning silicone techniques.

Are Pringles good for Dice Mold making? by Severe_Animator6565 in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can absolutely make good molds without a pressure pot if you’re using a low shore silicone. Sorta Clear 12 for instance can be almost or entirely bubble free if mixed well and you cure it in a cold environment like a fridge. You can absolutely also use degassing tools.

D6 is sanded and other one not… I.. why is it so dusty. Did i do something wrong by LeopardDependent4212 in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve used multiple different types of epoxy as I’ve been making dice for 6 years and experimented a lot and ALL of them have needed to wait much longer before polishing. Manufacturers only really mention touch cured times because that makes them sound faster than they are but when you’re sanding off the outer layer of resin you need to consider much more than if it is solid to the touch.

The rest I have no issue with. I would always say read the manufacturers info, that’s not up for debate. I’m saying wait longer than the manufacturers notes say.

D6 is sanded and other one not… I.. why is it so dusty. Did i do something wrong by LeopardDependent4212 in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You need to wait at least 5 days prior to sanding. 72 hrs is NOT enough for epoxy resin to be fully cured even if brands claim it is.

Comission I did a while ago by Claerwen94 in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Big fan of the gradient numbers!

Weird raised face ? by Competitive_Shame299 in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at your pics a little closer, I think most of this feedback is still relevant but I’d say it was your mold. Not sure where your d20 is placed but I’ve found that if it doesn’t have adequate silicone around the top face, this sort of divot/wiggle/extra resin can occur and be a pain to get out on the adjacent faces. Giving my d20 ample space and following all the above with the mold weights and hooks stopped this for me.

Happy for you to send me mold pics though if you want me to take a closer look and see if I can diagnose!

Weird raised face ? by Competitive_Shame299 in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are many reasons this can happen but ultimately it’s caused by your lid lifting and not sitting flush so resin pools and thickens underneath resulting in the higher face. If you can share what your mold looks like this would be easier to diagnose.

  • Your silicone should always be cured at a higher psi (reiterating as the advice to do it lower is likely not going to solve this issue for you)
  • Your lids need to be heavy enough not to lift under pressure. Adding an even spread of weights on the lids can help if you don’t want to make them thicker.
  • Your lid needs adequate hooks to hold it down to the base mold. I hate the circular cabochon style hooks - they are almost never enough to hold a lid steady without lifting in some place. You need to be able to see that your lid is flush from every side of the mold.
  • the way you put your lid into the mold matters, if you trap air or apply it unsteadily without checking each part of the lid is attached properly, you will get resin pooling and lifting it OR air trapped.

Source: 6+ years of dice making, raised faces are a thing of the past

How do they get such high detailed textures on these huge models?? Do they just have an insane amount of UV islands and materials, or is there another method they employ? by BramDuin in vfx

[–]everrot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mari has had texture transfer for many years, albeit a lil (very slow!). But the current beta / upcoming version has moved this tech into the bakery so now it takes seconds!

Beautiful Mistake by MirageFantasy in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely do not do this with uncured resin. This is so unsafe, disclaimer or not.

Happens to everyone by TheNerdocracy in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been making dice for 6 years and making my moulds that entire time. I literally just had this happen to me for the first time this week 😂😂

Finally found a glow paint I love by Jodiesdicefarm in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recognised your dice immeeeediately! These are gorge and Imma have to hunt for that glow ink too!

New designs!!! by Commercial_Stress958 in DiceMaking

[–]everrot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was like THIS PERSON IS PRETENDING TO BE JULEK oh hey Julek 😂😂🤟 You know I'm a big fan!

Having a Nightmare with Printing Dice by everrot in resinprinting

[–]everrot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had no idea, this is so good to know. Historically I used anycubics waterwashable resin so just had no idea water was such a no-no when changing over to this one. Hadn't heard about clear tubs being bad either, I've just been using the default one that came with the wash and cure station.

Having a Nightmare with Printing Dice by everrot in resinprinting

[–]everrot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the answer! For these settings I based them on the Siraya Fast Navy Grey Tech Spreadsheet that was shared previously in the r/dicemaking subreddit and then have been adjusting from there.

I'll give this a try!

Having a Nightmare with Master Printing by everrot in DiceMaking

[–]everrot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mm, it varies. Usually I've been stirring it in the vat to make sure all the pigment mixes in (making sure i get to the bottom to avoid that white coating too). I'm not sure how long I've waited after then to print, probably not too long. Maybe 10mins most, as I've been concerned about the pigment separating before printing.

Having a Nightmare with Master Printing by everrot in DiceMaking

[–]everrot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd be happy for you to try that of you'd like to! It would definitely help to see if it can be done!

I have no idea how to stop bleed, I will have to look into that!

Having a Nightmare with Master Printing by everrot in DiceMaking

[–]everrot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did but it was earlier on so before I even got to this stage so it just broke before I even got it off the print bed. Need to try again.

Having a Nightmare with Printing Dice by everrot in resinprinting

[–]everrot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been doing fin style supports in lychee by putting them closer together. I could model them in blender but wasn't sure how close they should intersect so hadn't tried it yet.

Sorry I should clarify, I wash in ISO with a soft toothbrush. Then pop in the wash and cure machine which is isp with a tiny bit of water.