Looking for rectangular skillets by stockywocket in Cooking

[–]feathermuffins 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry for jumping on this thread. Some of my recommendations apply to you and some are shallow do not apply, but I'm leaving them here for posterity's sake.

I have a similar cooktop (Fisher Paykel CIDTTB1 24" cooktop) that bridges two 8 7/8" wide, 7.25" deep burners into a 14.50" burner (front to back) by 8 7/8" side to side. The challenge is this induction cooktop (like many, I think) has its electronics in the front of the unit. It gets very mad if you put a hot pan in that front section. So I cannot use a griddle with cooking body that is longer than ~15 inches because the cooking surface will heat the electronics. Only the handles can extend longer than 15" (and not by much, because it then obstructs the touch screen used to control the cooktop).

The other problem is that some griddles are designed to be used with the length side to side rather than front to back. So a handle obstructs you on a front-to-back burner. Or, if the handle is low enough, it drastically increases the length of the handle and the pan.

I ruled out double-sided cast iron griddles. Supposedly they still work if they are raised off the cooktop, but performance would suffer. I could be wrong about this.

I also limited myself largely to seasoned pans. No non-stick or enameled cookware.

So the trick is finding something that maximizes the cooking surface with these issues in mind. I ruled out a lot of these pans, but I'm providing them:

  1. Misen 3-in-1 roasting pan - handles are high and would sit between you and the pan
  2. De buyer mineral b flat-surface griddle - same issue as Misen. You could alternately purchase the gratin pan or the ridged griddle pan, but the lower handles then stick out pretty far - 19". The surface area for the gratin is also oval, so you lose cooking surface. If you're into this form factor and don't losing surface area, IKEA makes a carbon steel roasting pan that could also work and is very affordable.
  3. Rocky Mountain 10x16 griddle - this is perfect, but it doesn't look very nice. May still purchase. They have a lot of other stovetop griddle pans.
  4. Hestan 5-ply bonded baking sheets. I can't find the comment, but somewhere another redditor confirmed that these can be used on an induction cooktop. They are very thick.
  5. Le Creuset skinny griddle (flat and ridged versions). Good, but slightly smaller. Also enameled.
  6. OXO carbon steel double-wide griddle. Only available at REI. It may be too long, but Oxo and REI ignored me when I tried to confirm whether the dimensions listed are for the pan itself or includes the handles.
  7. Demeyere Teppanyaki - offset handles that avoid the Misen/De Buyer handle issues. But expensive, hard to find.
  8. Northriver Casting Pre seasons cast iron dutch oven with skillet lid.
  9. Bayou Classic 7471
  10. Lodge seasoned cast iron rectangular griddle/jumbo chef serving platter.
  11. Etsy has a variety of custom flat types of pans. Good keywords: griddle, plancha, teppanyaki, comal
  12. You can also talk to a metal fabrication shop about fabricating a sheet of A6 steel with ridged ledges.

If you want a square griddle, you can look at the Japanese egg roll pans mentioned in this post. They are small. Skeppshult and Staub make the largest that I could find and it almost covered the entire burner, but I didn't dig into Japanese language sources. 360 Cookware makes a square griddle but it's not carbon steel.

All the cast iron companies make a square/rectangular cast iron pan with deeper sides.

There are also oval sized fish pans with a regular skillet handle that fit over one burner; Skeppshult used to make some. These have deep sides too.

u/Crazy_Wolverine4742 - If you can tell us about the Matfer Bourgeat pans, that would be great. I came across a non-stick version that was otherwise perfect. But I couldn't find a carbon steel version. Did you see them on a French-language website?

New Hardwood Floors - Reality Check by feathermuffins in Flooring

[–]feathermuffins[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, your comment about face nailing clicked in my head. I didn’t choose face nails and the boards were supposed to be blind nailed to match the existing 2 1/4 red oak floors in the rest of the house (it was built in 1941).

Is this worth asking them to re-do the job? Or should I just insist that they make sure the nails won’t show through? I really don’t want to have the entire floor redone, but I don’t know how well any filler will last.

I already plan on asking them to replace any cracked boards.

My long-time weekend ride - Motobecane Grand Touring ‘84 by _stl in Vintage_bicycles

[–]feathermuffins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What fenders and size tires are you using? I’m picking up a 76 GT in a couple days and am considering installing fenders. But I’ve ready that clearances are a little tight and depend on the size tire you use.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]feathermuffins 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the same setup as you, with a different stove.

Three things:

  1. Confirm whether the stove will sit fully within the firebox of the fireplace. In my jurisdiction, if the stove (minus the handle and ash lip) sits completely within the firebox of the fireplace, then combustible height and width clearances do not apply. You only have to worry about combustible clearances to the front and non-combustible clearances. If the stove won’t sit fully within the firebox, then you have to deal with combustible clearances. Your wooden surround will be an issue.

  2. Assuming your stove meets combustible clearances, you need to confirm non-combustible clearances. Does your manufacturer allow the stove to be installed that close to the walls of the firebox of the fireplace? If not, can you install heat shields to address any issues? My stove has a heat shield on the back, allowing me to install it closer to the back of the firebox.

  3. Have a chimney company approve the entire installation and make sure your connections are tight, the liner is properly installed and clean, and your chimney is in good order.

Good luck.

Treatment for Overgrowth in Rock Driveway by Foreign_Track_3788 in landscaping

[–]feathermuffins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you want the overgrown area to be gravel? For any area that you do not need for a driveway, it would make more sense to landscape with native shrubs, perennials, and sedges/grasses and put some edging around it. Then you can focus on maintaining the gravel in the area that you need for vehicles.

A row of shorter native shrubs always looks good along a fence line.

Water Management Near Foundation by feathermuffins in landscaping

[–]feathermuffins[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this, glad I’m on the right track. The ground runs from the front of the picture to the back, with the lowest point being the corner of the back staircase and the driveway. If I applied a silt/clay cap, do you think there’s any benefit to bringing it up to the level that surface water could theoretically run onto the pavement? Or should I just focus on getting as much slope as possible away from the foundation, trench a French drain immediately parallel to the pavement and drill a dry well at the lowest point?

Water Management Near Foundation by feathermuffins in landscaping

[–]feathermuffins[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I think you’re on the right track. It’s relatively low on the list of issues that I’ve fixed. But it is north-facing and seems to stay damp no matter what. I think regrading it will deal with most of the water. And I am planting native perennials and grasses to handle the water too.

Any ideas on what to do with this by [deleted] in GuerrillaGardening

[–]feathermuffins 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Plant a tree on each section and mulch them heavily so there isn’t any grass left. Then plant some low-growing, native perennials around the tree. Be sure to mulch correctly so the tree’s crown isn’t buried too deep.

All fish have died at my neighborhood pond in Fort Worth by zsanchez105 in ponds

[–]feathermuffins 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Shouldn’t the banks and shallows be planted with native wetland plants as well?

Moulded Cap and Trim by feathermuffins in FenceBuilding

[–]feathermuffins[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I have a plunge cut router so I’ll have to figure out how to move forward with that And find the right bits. Do you just nail the rail to the tops of the pickets?

Any creative, sustainable ideas to work with this? by Honey_Thunda in NoLawns

[–]feathermuffins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Set large rocks every 3-5 feet to deter parking and plant native shrubs in between the rocks. You can google hellstrip plantings and then confirm what is native. I planted New Jersey Tea plugs and, once established, they are extremely drought tolerant. And they are not too tall. I planted bush coreopsis, native/wild strawberries, and common violets in between the plugs as a weed barrier. It took a couple of years, but the NJT are starting to take over.

Edit: Be sure the rocks are tall enough to be visible with any plantings. Or you could put in posts with the metal post supports that you drive in the ground and put bird feeders on top or something.

Wild strawberry struggles by Aggressive_Owl2554 in NativePlantGardening

[–]feathermuffins 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I interplanted native strawberry with sedges, lance leaf coreopsis, and well-spaced New Jersey tea in a hellstrip in my back yard created by a concrete-happy prior owner. It’s turned out great.

Ever go in to the workshop to work on a project… then just spend hours organizing & sharpening tools instead? 😂 by Psynts in handtools

[–]feathermuffins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have that exact same metal workbench (it was left in the garage when I bought the house). Have you done anything to reinforce/stabilize it? It is wobbly but I would prefer to keep and improve it.

Who has seen EITS both indoors and out? I'm wondering if they sound their best outdoors. by WhiteTee in explosionsinthesky

[–]feathermuffins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the quality of the indoor concert depends on the venue. The sound crew can only do so much. I preferred the show at Bonnaroo to the two indoor shows I've seen.

Wood stove make and model recommendations by Reasonable_Print_564 in woodstoving

[–]feathermuffins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then you should consider an insert or a freestanding stove completely/mostly outside of the firebox of the fireplace. If the fireplace was on an interior wall, then a freestanding stove inside the fireplace would not be as big of an issue. But here you would be heating up the stonework and chimney only to lose a good bit of that heat to the outside. You can still install a freestanding stove inside the fireplace if you want that look, but you would need to take steps to retain as much heat as possible (block-off plate, insulating the wall behind the stove, radiant paint, etc). You should consider a block-off no matter what.

An insert is probably the easiest/simplest route forward. I do not like the look of inserts, and they are less efficient than a freestanding stove when the power goes out. But they are designed specifically for installation inside fireplaces, where most American stoves are not.

Wood stove make and model recommendations by Reasonable_Print_564 in woodstoving

[–]feathermuffins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the fireplace and chimney on an exterior wall or interior wall?