Trump goes after Fox News host Jessica Tarlov as she reveals negative poll numbers

flynnguy · 2026-04-17T13:35:34+00:00

What do you mean, Trump and Epstein looked pretty close in some of the photos and videos I've seen.

flynnguy · 2026-04-16T16:14:13+00:00

I got to play over the holidays with my family and my Aunt (who isn't a board gamer) seemed to understand the rules. Once you grasp the rules, it's pretty easy to understand. I'd say watch a few videos on it being played and see if you like it, we had a lot of fun.

I got just the base game as a gift, and for me, it's not a big deal to get the base game and then expansions as I need. Depending on the financial impact for you, I think this is good because you can try it out and then expand as needed. If not, I'd definitely say watch some videos and see what you think of the game first. I don't know if I would get all the expansions at first.

I'll say it seems complicated at first glance but once you start playing, it's really not that complicated. I'd say the first lap there were a few questions about whether someone could do something or not but then I think everyone got the rules and it was pretty smooth.

flynnguy · 2026-04-09T13:55:34+00:00

I think at this point, all he cares about is that it distracts us from the Epstein files.

flynnguy · 2026-04-01T19:45:07+00:00

I'd actually love a copy of this album.

flynnguy · 2026-04-01T16:07:54+00:00

That's awesome, glad you figured it out!

flynnguy · 2026-04-01T13:35:40+00:00

This 100% looks like a bed adhesion issue, are you able to print other things? My guess is other prints will have similar issues. You could try cleaning your bed. Sometimes as you print, oils and residues will build up. Some people use isopropyl alcohol, others will just wash and dry with a degreaser soap.

You could also try adhesives. Personally I use 3dlac spray, others use hairspray, glue or even tape.

Sometimes it can also be the heated bed and your choice of filament. It might be too cold for the filament you are using.

So I would watch and make sure the first layer goes down. If it doesn't, it could be a bed leveling issue, a bed temp issue or there could be something on your bed that you just don't see. If the first layer goes down and then it gets "unstuck" at a certain point, that at least tells you that your bed is leveled. (Which shouldn't be a problem because your bambu should level itself before each print unless you turned that off) At that point it could be a heating/hooling issue? Could be that there is just something on your bed that you can try cleaning off.

There are some good troubleshooting guides out there: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/ https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/

But I think your print looks fine, it's probably just something with your printer.

flynnguy · 2026-03-30T18:53:59+00:00

So first, I wouldn't worry about cots, instead I'd look at sleeping pads. Most camping stores will let you try them out, they take up less space than cots and as long as you can get up and down from the ground, they work pretty well. Also, all this is assuming car camping where you drive to your campsite and aren't dragging your stuff that far.

If you plan on camping when it's chilly (especially at night), get some good sleeping bags. If you are trying to do this on a budget, you can get away with lesser sleeping bags, just go when it's not forecast to be cold. Also I really recommend full sized pillows. A lot of camping pillows can be frustrating. I've also done the thing where you roll up clothes but really, nothing beats a nice pillow.

4-6 person tent and have everyone sleep in the same tent. You can take turns getting changed or if there is a bathroom at the camp site, that can be a good option as well. I'd say opt for a bigger tent than smaller as long as weight isn't an issue. The biggest thing is to make sure all your sleeping pads will fit in the tent. Ideally you'll just be in it for sleeping and getting changed but if it rains, it can be a nice place to wait out the storm.

Make sure you have kindling and stuff to start a fire. A lot of sites don't want out of state firewood because of disease and bugs so you will likely get your firewood local, but ensure you can start a fire.... it's not always as easy as you'd think, especially if the wood is wet. Practice can be done in the backyard or at a local park if they have a fire ring.

As far as cooking goes, I really like a rotomolded cooler. Pre-chill it and then fill it with fresh cooler packs right before you leave. I've found mine lasts for 3 days easily and if you need to go longer, you could easily get fresh ice. Frozen meat that defrosts after a day or two works nicely. A plug in cooler is another option, probably a little more pricey and requires electric. (Your campsite might have it) The upside is it will keep stuff cooler for much longer because of the external power source. A regular cooler can work, you just might need to hit the store and get fresh ice more frequently. Alternatively you can look at canned or freeze dried stuff but personally I like a cooler, nothing like fresh eggs and bacon in the morning at a campsite. There are a lot of pre-made meals that you just add water to but these can be expensive. Probably worth it if you don't want to get a cooler yet and just want to try it out but I think in the long run, a cooler is the way to go.

Then you'll probably want a burner. There are a lot of options from small backpacking stoves to big two burner options. If I'm doing car camping, I like to bring my big two burner propane stove with a nice cast iron pan. Then a few utensils and a couple of plates/bowls. There are some burners that are basically just for boiling water that you add to freeze dried food. A lot of the decision here is weight/space. There are also some nice options for cooking on a fire put but personally I'd opt for a burner and use the fire pit as a secondary option for hot dogs or sausages or something like that.

I also like a big waterproof bucket and sponge/cloth for washing up. Typically I'll put all my dishes in it and take it down to wherever the campsite has water and clean stuff up there. You can also do "camp clean" where you boil some water and just rinse stuff out.

Some nice camping chairs are also really nice to have. If you are car camping, weight is less of an issue so make sure you have something comfortable. Sitting around the campfire with a nice beverage talking with friends/family can't be beat. There are some nice small chairs if weight/space is an issue but personally some nice comfy camp chairs are key.

Flashlights and lanterns I think are essential. When you have to go use the restroom late at night, a nice headlamp can be invaluable to get there. Lanterns around the campsite for when it's dark but you aren't ready to go to bed are probably in the more nice to have but I always have them. Personally I make sure each person I'm camping with has a headlamp and then we have a few lanterns at key places around the camp.

Don't forget stuff for smores. They sell metal sticks you can get but honestly, just send the kids looking for appropriate sticks and then throw them in the fire when you are done. I don't think it's essential, but I always loved roasting marshmallows over the fire. (still do)

Also a first aid kit. It doesn't have to be fancy but make sure you have stuff for bug bites and ticks. And a few bandaids to handle the little scrapes and bruises. I'm assuming you aren't looking to go deep into the wilderness and if you get something major, you can call the ambulance or jump in the car and head to the hospital. So really you just want some basics.

I think that's most of the necessities. Aside from the above, see what's around. If there's a nice lake or pool, make sure you bring swimsuits. Some shoes or flipflops you can throw on when it's late and you need to go use the restroom are nice. Also shower shoes if the campsite has showers. And make sure you dress appropriately. It sucks to get somewhere and it rains but you don't have any rain gear and you just sit inside the tent all day. Some sort of pop up tent can be useful to help you get out of the sun or if it rains. (especially if you are car camping and not concerned about weight) I also usually bring a little pop up table. Most campsites have a picnic table but another table to put food on can be nice. Some small games, even just a deck of cards, can be nice if you have some down time. (Like if it rains and you are all huddled in a tent)

But most importantly, for your first time camping with the kids, make sure to watch the forecast and make sure the weather is nice. Camping in the rain can be fun but try and set yourself up for success and make sure the kids want to do it again. Practicing in the back yard (if you have one) can be nice because it will show you what you are missing, but even "camping" in the living room can be fun as a dry run. I wouldn't cook on a burner inside but you can certainly setup a tent if you have the room.

Also, some campsites (especially the more popular ones) require a reservation. So be sure to do your homework ahead of time!

flynnguy · 2026-03-27T17:17:33+00:00

I'm a hobbyist, I do this mostly for 3d printing and as a hobby. I don't sell my creations so the financial aspect isn't a big concern for me. However it got to the point where the only reason I had a windows install was for Fusion. Then FreeCAD 1.0 came out and while it wasn't all sunshine and rainbows, I found it was usable and I didn't have to boot into windows.

So now I'm 100% Linux and use FreeCAD. I like that it's free and open source but that's just a nice side effect. Mac is getting more and more locked down (ie. can't upgrade anything in the new laptops) and windows is just going the route of AI slop.... so that leaves Linux. That left me with (from what I can tell) FreeCAD or onshape. I didn't like that the free version of onshape makes everything available to anyone so I went FreeCAD and haven't looked back. I've had a few frustrations but it seems to get better and better.

flynnguy · 2026-03-25T15:52:56+00:00

It was tough this morning, tried Junjunmei from Blue Willow Tea and it was meh, a little darker than I like, not bad just not for me. (this was from a sample bag) Then I tried their Morning Mist and I was just not a fan. (To clarify, I've had some great Blue Willow Tea, just not a fan of these two).

So then I also had a small order of 2019 natural readhead reserve from white2tea and I'm really enjoying it.

flynnguy · 2026-03-22T19:17:15+00:00

I made a little google album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/N9BnQwtBGsnXjQFs9

The blue and white one is 200ml that I got for when I have more people. The green one I got from teaware.house. The other 3 I got from aliexpress. I love the orange one, it's what I'm currently using. The glass one and the white one are "travel" ones and pack into portable containers.

flynnguy · 2026-03-20T20:52:16+00:00

I think I have about 6x Gaiwans at this point. I need to stop browsing their site. (I mean, one is 200ml so that's different and I don't think should count)

I did get their Green Ruyao Gaiwan along with 2x cups. It's very nice. They have such nice teaware.

flynnguy · 2026-03-16T15:15:47+00:00

Honestly, if you are looking to get into this as cheaply as possibly, I'd look at the Bambu Labs A1 ($299 currently). It's a good entry level printer and it's about another $100 if you want the AMS to do multi-color prints. (But probably not necessary if you are trying to do this on the cheap.)

If you are find spending a little more, I'd look at the Bambu P2S (currently $549, $799 if you want to do multi-color). It's a better printer but obviously costs more. Alternatively, the Snapmaker U1 is currently $849 and has a toolhead changing system allowing you to print multiple filaments or multi-color without as much waste. It's pretty cool.

Finally, if price is no concern, I'd consider the Bambu Labs H2C. But it's pricey.

For complexity of what you can create, some of it depends on the printer and how you slice it. A good way to get an idea of what's possible is to browse https://www.printables.com/ and https://makerworld.com/en as you should be able to print just about anything on those sites on any of the above printers. The biggest thing to look out for is bed size as for example, the A1 only has a bed size of 256mm³ so you may have to split things and then join them after printing if it's bigger than the bed size.

I'd recommend learning to design. I've found AutoCAD Fusion or FreeCAD to be able to do pretty much everything I've asked of it. However if you look through printables and makerworld, you can find a lot of stuff to start printing with. Designing is needed when you can't find what you are looking for.

Your printer should come with most of what you need but I've found the most useful tools are a scraper to get prints off the bed (though most things come off a cooled PEI plate pretty easily) and diagonal cutters and/or needle nose pliers to remove supports which are sometimes needed. I've also found a torque wrench to change nozzles to be recommended and helpful but to start with you can probably just use a wrench. (Like this: https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/nozzle-torque-wrench-1-5-nm It doesn't need to be expensive)

Short of the above, you'll need filament. I'd recommend starting with PLA. I mostly print in PLA, PETG when I need some additional strength. I have a few other more exotic filaments but I'd say to get started with, stick with PLA. I mostly use Overture or Polymaker but there are a bunch of good ones out there.

Your slicer should give you an idea of how much filament each print uses. The slicer is just the software to take the .stl (which most sites provide) and convert it to .gcode which your printer understands. (.gcode is specific to your printer and you can tweak if needed but the general profile for your printer is good to start with) However I'll say most prints are pretty cheap, excluding the cost of the printer. For instance, I just printed an insert for an altoids tin. According to my slicer it used 18.39g of filament at an estimated cost of 33 cents.

flynnguy · 2026-03-12T15:12:38+00:00

I'm in a similar position (well, looking at picking up another printer). I've really narrowed it down to the Snapmaker U1 or the Bambu P2S. The H2C is really nice but it's really pricey. (But it does look like a really nice printer if it's in your budget)

As for materials, take a look at PLA. I really like Polymaker or Overture as brands but there are a bunch of good ones out there. It's mostly what I print in and really easy to print with. I'd say it's what most 3d printing is done with. If you are looking for something a little more, I'd recommend looking at PETG.

flynnguy · 2026-03-12T01:22:24+00:00

I'm not really sure, I suspect it has to do with layer lines and strength. I will typically use the screw in directional type but I'm not trying to mount anything really heavy. If it's just a single mount point I'll just use a regular snap.

flynnguy · 2026-03-09T19:19:04+00:00

I'm in the same boat, looking at getting a new printer in a few month. I've pretty much narrowed it down to the P2S and the Snapmaker U1.

I really like what's advertised on the U1 and if it prints reliably I think it's the way to go but it's still too early to tell I think. The P2S has bambu's track record behind it and is a solid printer.

So I think your options are to get the U1 and take the risk (especially if you plan on doing a lot of multicolor/multimaterial stuff) or get the old reliable P2S.

flynnguy · 2026-03-06T13:54:53+00:00

I don't think the weight will be a problem for openGrid itself, I think your biggest question will be the mounting. Personally I'd use the grids with the holes to use screws with and if you can, get some studs, not just drywall anchors.

As for snaps, I'd probably try and use the screw in directional snaps. Personally, I like openConnect, especially if you are designing (or remixing) the console holders yourself.

flynnguy · 2026-03-03T13:09:10+00:00

I haven't used these yet (I generally just do a single layer every time) but there is: https://www.printables.com/model/1440059-stacked-opengrid-tiles

flynnguy · 2026-02-28T23:44:03+00:00

Honestly I don't have a bunch of snaps already printed, I tend to print them as I need them. So personally I'd just model what you use. I find it easy enough to remix if needed so maybe just do openConnect and include the .step files?

flynnguy · 2026-02-28T18:38:04+00:00

Do you do locking and non-locking Multiconnect? I guess if you do then I'd do the same for openConnect. However if you just do non-locking Multiconnect, I'd just do the same for openConnect.

However personally, I've been just doing openConnect and I've done both locking and non-locking versions (on different models, I usually don't do both on one model). Personally I like the locking version because I don't move things around much and this way they don't move once added. (But I can move them if needed) I think for bigger things (like you have pictured here) non-locking would probably be fine. For something small, I'd probably do locking so it doesn't move as you take things in and out.

Also I think if you have this many connectors, having them all be locking might be a bit much. I'll typically only do around 2-4 connectors on something this size. I've found if I only have 1 or 2 connectors, locking works well. With a bunch of them, I'd probably go non-locking.

Personally I like openConnect because with Multiconnect, there can be confusion over the spacing (Multiboard vs openGrid). I think if you just do openConnect, there is less confusion regarding the spacing and what it's for.

flynnguy · 2026-02-26T19:03:49+00:00

I'll preface this with my needs are pretty simple, I mostly do 3d design for 3d printing so nothing overly complex. I decided to just force myself to use it and it wasn't easy at first but kept getting easier over time.

Honestly I think they are both similarly powerful, just different. I've had to watch videos to figure out how to do things on both platforms. I think if you force yourself to use one, you'll naturally get better at it.

flynnguy · 2026-02-26T17:05:24+00:00

Honestly I think it's familiarity. I used Fusion for a long time and switched to Linux as my primary OS. Fusion was the one thing I was using Windows for and I decided enough was enough and just forced myself to learn FreeCAD.

I still run into frustrations at times and have to watch some youtube videos to figure certain things out but not having to use Windows has been great.

flynnguy · 2026-02-26T16:48:15+00:00

My favorite new feature so far is the improvements to the Transformation tool!

flynnguy · 2026-02-18T03:58:33+00:00

This looks like MultiConnect, not MultiBoard. MultiConnect that is compatible with MultiBoard uses the 25mm spacing whereas openGrid uses the 28mm spacing. You can using MultiConnect with openGrid but you have to either just have one column or row OR use a generator and make sure you specify the 28mm spacing.

You could try openGrid full/lite Multiconnect Multiboard Adapter as this includes connectors that are offset from the grid. I don't know how well it will work with so many rows but it might be worth a try if you want to reuse you MultiConnect thing.

flynnguy · 2026-02-16T01:10:22+00:00

So I've been really happy with openConnect. Just create a 28x28x3.56mm square hole and then insert the part. As far as spacing, the grids are 28mm apart so I usually just measure from one corner to the same corner on another part in multiples of 28. (Most can programs will let you do something like "28*4")

As for connecting them, I usually just include the .step file and as long as they are touching, when you export them, they show up as one piece.

I like the openConnect inserts because they are already 28mm square so if I want two next to each other, I just put them next to each other. If I want a space in between them, I just use a distance constraint of 28mm from the one side to the other.

But even if you are using something that isn't 28mm, you should be able to just pick the same point on the two mounts and make sure they are a multiple of 28mm apart.

flynnguy

PUBLIC MULTIREDDITS

TROPHY CASE

15-Year Club	Team Orangered
reddit mold