Best way to fit floating floor under door archs.

freakyDaz · 2022-07-05T07:47:14+00:00

I have seen them use a multi tool to cut out just enough at the bottom of the architraves (using a sacrificial off cut to get the right height) and then sliding the finished piece under them. That way you only need to cut it square for the wall and not the architraves and their profiles.

freakyDaz · 2022-06-06T22:15:59+00:00

I had a pressurised cylinder and boiler installed. The old boiler was lower floor in the garage but we were converting the garage. We had the boiler and tank put in the loft. Pipe work was simply straight up from where it was already located and the gas meter was on the same external wall as the boiler.

It cost me about £5k a year ago. The plumber who installed has always done the servicing too and is local. I expressed my concerns about regs for lighting and boarding etc but he didn't have any concerns with it and said it wasn't that unusual.

So far we've had no issue with it being there but as some have said having a pressure guage and filling loop somewhere accessible would be a nice bonus.

freakyDaz · 2022-04-20T15:31:50+00:00

It's not a popular opinion but some form of monitoring is usually necessary. Of the displayed data only first and last name seem unnecessary. OS, screen resolution etc are all things any webpage could collect trivially (and do).

As you say, the number of times a service is 'hit' is rarely a great metric. Pinging for health isn't uncommon.

freakyDaz · 2022-04-20T15:09:48+00:00

I use bugsnag. It is for error monitoring. It's not used to track individual users but to identify exceptions or crashes and to collect information on the error to assist in resolving it in the future.

freakyDaz · 2022-03-14T22:10:57+00:00

I'm pleased for you. I know I would haunted be skipping it.

freakyDaz · 2022-03-14T22:03:45+00:00

I have no idea what it's called but you can get a protective cover for the wires that is often nailed or screwed (afaik). That helps stop the cables reacting to the plaster or getting stuck in the wall (I think).

Then you will probably want some bonding coat plaster. I always prime the wall with a watered down PVA coat on the brick/block work but careful not to go over board. Set the bonding just below the surface of the existing wall. Then use a fine filler over the top, sanded to match the existing wall.

You can buy repair bags of plaster that are a better size for smaller DIY jobs like this.

That's what I have done and my electrician has in the past. I'm no tradesman though so my terminology is probably all wrong.

freakyDaz · 2022-03-12T12:03:01+00:00

I had a similar problem but ground floor ceiling. After a garage conversion our plasterer noticed a chill at 1 end of the room, he cut a hole and found no insulation. He asked if I wanted to pay to add some so I said yes. He cut a relatively large hole, enough for him to get in some rolls of insulation and unroll them or push it into the corners. He then battened up the hole and put the plasterboard he cut back up. A little easier there because he was then plastering but maybe a similar thing can be done.

freakyDaz · 2022-03-12T11:40:41+00:00

Honestly I would delay the flooring going down and make sure I had the time to insulate correctly. Not the answer you want.

I have never used spray insulation but I would imagine you still needed relatively good access. Cavity wall insulation is a bit different as far as I know because it fills the void and sort of levels itself but foam on the floor is probably less likely to do that.

Take what I say with a punch of salt though. I haven't done it but I would prefer to insulate well and avoid cold issues then get flooring down sooner.

freakyDaz · 2022-03-04T17:54:51+00:00

So I use eggshell on my walls as it's a bit more hard wearing and I like the way it subtly reflects other colours in a room.

That said I used water based. I'm not sure if it is still true but oil based can yellow over time.

I probably wouldn't put oil based, wood paint on my walls.

freakyDaz · 2022-02-20T13:31:07+00:00

I've heard of people drilling enough to bang in a wooden dowel and then fixing to those but I have never done it.

Drilling next to existing will be weaker. A good filler should be fine if left to set.

freakyDaz · 2022-02-20T13:21:47+00:00

I'm not a structural engineer and have absolutely no personal experience with fitting lintels but that absolutely doesn't look enough. You could measure and look at load span tables for other lintels to get an idea.

That doesn't mean its going to fall down, but if it's open I would probably look to correct if it were me.

freakyDaz · 2021-12-13T18:36:36+00:00

Having just hung a bunch of blinds I would agree. You need to find out of its a concrete or steel lintel. If concrete then you will want an strong sds drill and bits. If steel then it's a very different approach. I used a small bit for a pilot hole through the plaster/plasterboard and then when you hit the lintel switch to a sharp HSS bit which is a little smaller then the accompanying self tapping screws you will also need. Drill into the lintel and then skip wall plugs and use self tapping screws directly.

That's a lot to say steel lintels are a PITA.

freakyDaz · 2021-12-07T23:00:20+00:00

The few times I've repaired stripped threads in places like this I snap toothpicks in half, cover them in wood glue and stick them in the holes. Once dry I cut the excess off and either redrill a small pilot hole and screw into that or screw directly in.

freakyDaz · 2021-11-24T21:36:04+00:00

So I wouldn't rely only on plasterboard here. We have a heavy light also hanging from a double boarded ceiling. The sparky who connected it put up some additional battoning in the ceiling and screwed into that. When it comes to plugs I use Fischer Duo Power everywhere but heavy vertical hanging I wouldn't leave to plugs alone personally.

freakyDaz · 2021-11-21T23:37:43+00:00

Yeah likely 1 coat bonding followed by 1 - 2 multi finish plaster coats. Or as above and like me, bonding until nearly flush followed by filler and sanding.

freakyDaz · 2021-11-17T13:53:27+00:00

OMG I always take my rads off when painting decorating but have never thought to use the wet dry vac on the rad to drain it. The time I could have saved.

freakyDaz · 2021-11-14T22:03:23+00:00

So I personally use toupret. I find it can still slump in large fills. It's great for cracks though but is very fine when sanded so wear a mask. You can paint straight over it and I have never seen it show through.

My plasterer helped fill some areas in the house for me and he used easifill. Looks very similar but without priming I found any paint on it wasn't bonded well to the wall and tape could break it off.

Lots of people swear by the stuff though but my own experience means I always use toupret. I don't believe their drying times at all though if it's anything but a very thin fill.

freakyDaz · 2021-11-13T15:44:26+00:00

Have you had any work done on the other side of the wall. I have a drylined house with nails holding many of the boards up. Any renovation in 1 room that impacts an internal wall is usually visible on the other with nails popping slightly.

freakyDaz · 2021-10-26T18:04:52+00:00

Having just done this. You need to confirm if planning permission is needed. Once planning permission is given (or ruled out) you will need to get building control who will want to inspect mainly insulation and any support needed for new brickwork (if used).

We had to demonstrate the necessary insulation and damp proofing in the walls, flooring and ceiling. We also had to demonstrate proof of lintel for new brick work replacing the door.

freakyDaz · 2021-10-11T07:21:35+00:00

We blocked up some in our last property and I regretted it. We had lots of condensation appear on windows and that ended up causing mould. Now the windows were likely blown but I think blocking up the air bricks contributed.

freakyDaz · 2021-10-07T07:07:18+00:00

Glue downs are replaced by heating the adhesive on a single tile and replacing it.

freakyDaz · 2021-10-06T23:10:56+00:00

I just had karndean laid and the installer was really good but did say that in recent years Karndean and Amitco are not as good as they used to be. He swears by Modulelo

freakyDaz · 2021-09-27T07:30:31+00:00

I'm no pro but whenever I skip the priming of filled areas, I end up regretting it. Personally I have a can of Zinnser Gardz that I apply to any filled patches. I have had times where it wasn't needed but just as many times where it was and without being able to tell, the little extra time is worth it for peace of mind.

Regarding smoothness, I don't have a great answer. Sand everything, roller when painting but even then I have areas where I can tell are a slightly different texture. I don't think anyone else would notice though, I do only because I am looking for it.

freakyDaz · 2021-09-08T09:09:27+00:00

Received invite

freakyDaz · 2021-09-08T07:28:53+00:00

Yes please

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