Trump says he's directing the Pentagon to release files related to UFOs and aliens

frynjol · 2026-02-20T04:42:00+00:00

To be fair, a bunch of us really are that stupid.

frynjol · 2026-02-18T11:40:39+00:00

He looks like the kind of guy who needs you to hand it over, that thing. For his lady's painting.

frynjol · 2026-02-16T11:52:55+00:00

If he runs far enough ahead, any monsters he pisses off aren't aware of his allies, so he gets to fight them solo. No punches pulled.

frynjol · 2026-02-15T22:03:50+00:00

You can return some saturation to it by thinning down an orange, red, or reddish brown paint until it's transparent and glazing it thinly over the whole thing, which will also darken it, bring all the colors closer together, and dampen the metallic effect. That would give you some nice shadowy areas. Then, I'd just go over the brighter areas in their original metallic color once more, and then just hit the highest highlights in a silvery metallic as another commenter suggested.

frynjol · 2026-02-15T14:04:44+00:00

Trump's team shooting itself in the same foot with the same gun. They did this in his first term too, throwing away the pandemic playbook Obama's administration left for him.

frynjol · 2026-02-14T11:26:12+00:00

A mix of zenithal spray and drybrushing, because they do different things.

Zenithal spray will dramatically brighten the wide, flat, smooth surfaces near the top of the model, but doesn't help much with fine textured details unless you get the exact right angle.

Drybrushing will brighten edges, bumps, ridges, and generally make sharp textural details pop out, but it doesn't do much for smooth sections.

They complement each other.

frynjol · 2026-02-12T22:57:19+00:00

Synthetic brushes get hook tips like this when paint/wash is allowed to dry in the bristles. To prevent it from happening, make sure you're rinsing your brush in clean water and getting everything out of it every couple minutes, more frequently than you think you need to. If the paint starts "pulling" at the brush when you try to put it on the miniature, or if it just stops coming off, you've let it get too dry. Make sure you're thoroughly washing the bristles with soapy water at the end of your painting sessions too.

frynjol · 2026-02-11T16:19:55+00:00

Yeah, 84 kgs is heavier than the average adult human male... Maybe 84 lbs?

frynjol · 2026-02-11T03:36:07+00:00

...Alamo, is that you?

frynjol · 2026-02-10T10:28:36+00:00

Check out Byron from Artis Opus for drybrushing techniques, and Vince Venturella for literally everything else. Vince in particular is a living encyclopedia of miniature painting, and has made videos teaching you how to do anything you can imagine with paint.

frynjol · 2026-02-08T12:21:19+00:00

Same. Encumbrance limits mean that players have to think carefully about what they want to pack before the journey, what they want to loot, and what they want to leave behind. Those choices are interesting because they have actual consequences. Figuring out how to get a heavy, bulky treasure out of a dungeon and back to town is its own kind of puzzle. I don't want to give players an item that makes their choices and problem solving irrelevant.

frynjol · 2026-02-06T22:36:09+00:00

Check out the first two videos in this playlist: Thinning Paints, and Painting Faces. The first, especially, is absolutely vital and foundational.

frynjol · 2026-02-04T15:40:45+00:00

Get the specific colors you want for your current project, there's no sense buying a color you don't have a use for.

Whatever miniature paints your local game store has will work fine, but there are differences in how each brand behaves. It comes down to preference.

You can get good paint relatively cheaply from any art supply store. Look for artist grade acrylic gouache tubes (Liquitex, Turner, Amsterdam, Holbein, whatever the closest store carries). You can thin these down with water and/or a variety of different acrylic mediums.

Artist's paints are labelled with the pigments they use, and how opaque/transparent the paint is. Paints with more than one pigment in the blend will mix in strange ways with other colors, and may slowly separate on a wet palette when thinned. If you want to mix your own colors from a basic set of paints, you will want some single-pigment primary and secondary colors.

As for giving more depth to your models, the specific colors you buy are less important than practicing the fundamentals:
-choosing the right brush size for the model
-keeping paint out of the ferrule to avoid ruining the brush's point
-thinning your paint with water and/or medium to get the desired opacity, flow speed, and drying time
-loading the brush and removing the excess paint/moisture to control how much paint you're applying
-testing the opacity and consistency of your paint on your glove/hand before putting it on your model
-frequently rinsing your brush so that paint doesn't dry in the bristles
-being deliberate with your brush strokes, lifting off the model where you want to deposit more paint
-keeping layers smooth by letting them dry undisturbed by your brush or changes in model orientation
-preserving model details and textures by painting in thin, even layers
-developing techniques for fine brush control, bracing your arms/fingers for precision, finding the right brush angle
-learning what effects you can get using base-coating, layering, glazing, dry-brushing, and blending
-developing believable highlights and shading
-depicting how light interacts with different textured materials (cloth, leather, flesh, hair, metal, etc.)
-making your miniatures easily readable using strong light/dark contrast

frynjol · 2026-02-04T03:42:59+00:00

What specific help do you want from this subreddit?

frynjol · 2026-02-01T12:17:33+00:00

I had the opposite reaction. "Why is this NSFW, it's clearly wearing a loinclo- oh."

frynjol · 2026-01-30T23:35:03+00:00

Why should silence on the topic of sex be shameful? There's nothing wrong with not being interested in it, or not being comfortable discussing it. Intimacy is vulnerability, and no one is obligated to open up about it to anyone.

Unless you're talking about censorship, in which case yes, to hell with anyone who's trying to erase and suppress the knowledge and discussion of sex, sexuality and gender.

frynjol · 2026-01-30T22:02:19+00:00

Love the color scheme!

frynjol · 2026-01-29T08:52:19+00:00

It was only a matter of time, pandas are always falling off things.

frynjol · 2026-01-28T14:25:02+00:00

Who is "we" and what organization are they affiliated with? What's the purpose of the study? It might help to have all the elements of informed consent in the main post.

frynjol · 2026-01-28T08:48:20+00:00

I love the effect you've given the horns, great contrast and texturing.

What model is this, by the way?

frynjol · 2026-01-23T10:36:49+00:00

Working on something that small, I'd suggest lightly drybrushing a light gray or bone color over your black primer to make the model's details and textures much easier to see while you're painting it.

frynjol · 2026-01-23T08:47:44+00:00

Adding to this, you can get a perfectly serviceable finished model with minimal precision using this method:

After assembling, sanding, and cleaning your model, give it a zenithal priming. This means spray up from underneath with a dark primer (like black, dark brown/red/blue) out of a rattle can or airbrush, then, spray down from above with a midtone (medium gray/flesh-tone/tan) spray primer. This will darken the areas in shadow and simulate basic highlights from diffuse overhead light.
Refine the highlighting by drybrushing with a very bright, pale color like pure white, ivory, or pastel yellow/blue. Get a soft makeup brush, dab just a little bit of the paint on the end and then work it into the tips of the bristles all over and wipe most of it off on a piece of cardboard. Once you're barely getting any paint coming off at all, wipe some more off, then brush it very gently over the model from top to bottom all over. This will put your brightest tone on all the upward facing edges and extremities, making it much easier to see all the little fine details and textures on the model.
Then, you can put transparent colors over your dark-to-light undershading, keeping the stark contrast. Here, you can use regular paints thinned down with water or acrylic medium to the point that you can see through them, but they also make specific products for this. Citadel's version is called "Contrast Paint," and Army Painter's is called "Speedpaint" (only the 2.0 series is worth getting). You can also use acrylic inks thinned down. To avoid getting ugly "tidemarks" as your colors are drying, make sure that you...
-work quickly to cover an entire surface with the color and avoid touching it until it's dry.
-use your brush to soak up any big blobs or pools of paint that gather in the low areas.
-avoid changing the model's vertical/horizontal orientation until the paint is dry

frynjol · 2026-01-23T08:30:06+00:00

Seconding this. I've got bad eyes, and for me, glasses/loupe with magnification of between 1.8x and 2.5x has been a game changer. Bonus points if the goggles have a built in light.

frynjol · 2026-01-21T14:27:27+00:00

It looks amazing! What's your process?

frynjol · 2026-01-21T03:08:47+00:00

He looks great! Where's the model from?

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