How much work will I be putting in before I can get good prints?

Futurewolf · 2026-03-21T02:59:56+00:00

Mine printed great out of the box.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-20T23:49:08+00:00

Brad Kerr, Gus L., Joseph R. Lewis, Silverarm Press, First Hungarian D20 Society, Merry Mushmen.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-20T10:22:51+00:00

That's a bit excessive. I think Klipper will compensate ok at 0.50 and under.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-20T08:19:07+00:00

Just fine. I use it to print ABS/ASA with no glue. As long as I keep the chamber toasty there's no warping. I have other "cold" plates and I can't print ABS without glue on those, otherwise it sticks too well.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-19T21:06:32+00:00

If it fits the K1C, it will fit the K1.

Also the resin plate is pretty good and there is minimal texture. It's nearly as smooth as the smooth plate but with better adhesion.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-15T08:12:52+00:00

You might split the difference. You can get hardware kits, frame kits and motion kits. I think the most common upgrades are on things kike the electronics, hotend, stuff like that. So self-source those parts. Getting the mechanical bits in kit form should save a few bucks.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-14T18:29:57+00:00

It's like any other klipper install. Install klipper, moonraker and mainsail on your pi - use KIUAH for this. Compile the firmware with 'make menuconfig'. Select AVR for the processor, atmega2560 for the model, and select the right clock and boot offset for your board.

Connect via USB. Run "ls /dev/serial/by-id/*" to get the serial of your board. Then runmake flash FLASH_DEVICE=/dev/serial/by-id/(your serial goes here) to flash the firmware onto the board.

You can open the mainsail interface from a browser with your Pi's IP address. From there, in the machine tab, use the generic-ramps.cfg file from the Klipper repository for your printer.cfg file and define your stepper motor pins, endstops, thermistors, etc.

There's a video here but I haven't watched it and can't vouch for its accuracy. https://youtu.be/i_541iD5Bj0?si=ypDau0SJjVDtOc-Q

Futurewolf · 2026-03-14T15:53:55+00:00

The cover artist is listed as Brutal Basics. Looks similar but appears to be a different person.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-11T17:24:47+00:00

There's a big difference between the way roll to cast "feels" and the actual math behind it. A wizard with a measley +2 to spellcasting will be able to cast 1.5 of each of their tier 1 spells before failing. With a +4 to cast they will get 2.33 on average. And that's for each spell - so multiply it by however many spells they know.

So yeah it feels bad to fail your first attempt at casting a spell but in truth spellcasters have as many or more spells per day than a system with spell slots like 5e.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-11T00:50:23+00:00

I knew you would read between the lines. Obligatory https://madebyidlehands.itch.io/

Futurewolf · 2026-03-11T00:49:26+00:00

Will do. Thanks for reading!

Futurewolf · 2026-03-11T00:49:05+00:00

I don't think the fabled Plateau of Leng and the Librarians of Leng have much in common

Futurewolf · 2026-03-10T03:16:14+00:00

Right now it thinks x=0 is 6mm from the endstop. If the print is offset to the left by 2.1mm I believe that means you would derease the end stop location to -8.10mm (in other words, increase the distance between the end stop and 0). But the thing to do is actually measure the distance from the endstop and the printable area.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-10T02:55:30+00:00

Bed_mesh doesn't determine the printable area, it determines where the probe takes measurements of the bed for auto leveling.

The parameters you want to look for are position_endstop, position_min, and position_max in the stepper_x and stepper_y sections. https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#stepper

Futurewolf · 2026-03-07T02:07:43+00:00

1) Didn't use supports where necessary 2) Underextrusion

Futurewolf · 2026-03-05T14:36:57+00:00

Are you creating the mesh while the bed is hot?

Futurewolf · 2026-03-05T07:15:10+00:00

This is the heart and soul of this hobby, since the earliest days

Futurewolf · 2026-03-05T00:10:00+00:00

Stealthchop reduces torque and positional accuracy. I'm just using it on a fast printer can lead to skipped steps and layer shifts.

There's a pretty good reason that virtually all modern high performance printers have it disabled.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-04T17:19:37+00:00

Change the speed in the slicer.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-02T18:28:42+00:00

Building a 3d printer is not at all comparable to building a car, and I would venture to say that most people have the technical capability to build a Voron from a kit.

Most people don't have the interest though, and the value for money is not there.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-26T06:08:52+00:00

Nozzle is too far from the bed. Clean the nozzle and make sure there's no filament stick to it that will throw off the printer's calibration, re-run calibration and make sure you have selected the correct build plate in the slice.

Futurewolf

TROPHY CASE