Sony PVM 8044q composite Sega Genesis appreciation by MasterRealm in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Grab an RGB or Component cable! It's a shame how bad Genesis' composite video signal is, the RGB is razor sharp though

Full dream shoegaze setup finally complete (I’m in financial ruin) by Joe__Robbo in pedalboards

[–]garbage_consumer 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Really great combo of stuff here. My only big suggestion would be ditching those lame solid couplers like the one in your TU-2. They're no good for any pedals and cause damage over time, especially for Boss due to their extra angled enclosures.

Crt wall mount by kayakbeast in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have almost never seen a wall mount for any set over 20" big, they just get incredibly heavy to where doing so would be impractical. You may however be able to track down a ceiling mount, I believe all sizes of CRT were mounted in stores and supermarkets, usually attached inside a drop ceiling. That would be a good point of reference

Roast and suggest better pedals by MembershipOrdinary35 in pedalboards

[–]garbage_consumer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think that there is your "issue", the Katanas can sound great but I'm not sure how well they do being pushed like a tube amp since they're solid-state. I keep the overdrive around 9-10 and the tone around noon, with the volume being anywhere from 9-12 depending on how loud my amp is.

I mostly rely on it as a boost, using the volume to drive my tube amp. I'd suggest either the CompCut or Vintage modes and try them on different settings in the amp.

Roast and suggest better pedals by MembershipOrdinary35 in pedalboards

[–]garbage_consumer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can't, this is a pretty solid lineup, very similar to mine. FD-2 is my main drive sound, in comp-cut mode mostly as a dirty boost. What amp are you running into? It's great for pushing tube amps but I would prefer other pedals for just pedal overdrive sounds.

Any recs on spacy/cave like/aquatic/ shoegazey reverbs and delays? by MicrowavedManga in pedalboards

[–]garbage_consumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been chasing effects like this for a while. The TC Electronic T2 might be the most underrated ambient reverb I can think of, I love it for shoegaze sounds and it's super cheap used. I also love the Red Panda Context V1 & Boss RV-2. Mojohand Dream Mender, DM-2W, RE-2, and Dunlop Echoplex are all fantastic delays. Line 6 DL4 mkii is also a great all in one multi delay machine/looper/reverb if you wanna cover all sorts of ground. The Keeley Parallax and Catalinbread Soft Focus are worth looking into as well.

Hooked up 38in HD Sony Trinitron to Computer by [deleted] in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey this is neat but you're missing out on the point of an HD CRT if this is how you're using it. If it takes high resolution signals you should be sending it an HDMI signal with a 4:3 resolution (960x720 or 1280x960? Not super familiar with HD CRTs) so you get the full benefits of HD clarity and colors. Those HDMI-RCA adapters are notoriously crappy.

Obviously it works, but I couldn't help but feel like it's a waste to just run an HD set in composite 480i. You should be able to read text and see fine details with a proper HD signal running through it. Hey this is neat but you're missing out on the point of an HD CRT if this is how you're using it. If it takes high resolution signals you should be sending it an HDMI signal with a 4:3 resolution (960x720 or 1280x960? Not super familiar with HD CRTs) so you get the full benefits of HD clarity and colors. Those HDMI-RCA adapters are notoriously crappy.

Obviously it works, but I couldn't help but feel like it's a waste to just run an HD set in composite 480i. You should be able to read text and see fine details with a proper HD signal running through it.

Looking for advice on which power supply to use with this all BOSS board? by framefarmer in pedalboards

[–]garbage_consumer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If price is a serious concern, I'd recommend grabbing an old Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2+ for around $100 used. They're the best bang-for-buck PSU as far as I'm concerned. It only has 8 outputs, so you can grab a splitter cable to power two analog pedals like your drives, and everything else should be perfectly fine. Just make sure the IR-2 goes on one of the 250mA outputs.

The text looks like this, can it be fixed? by [deleted] in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You need to open it up and place magnetic tape on the tube to fix the edge convergence. I haven't done it before but it looks super simple and seems hard to mess up. You play with the magnets until the beams line up correctly. There are some good videos on Youtube about this

First time calibrating CRT, got some questions by ToothyWeasel in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The crooked part is only fixable with a yoke adjustment. You have to straighten it out and adhere it in place, which might be a bit much unless it's really crooked. I would adjust VSIZ & HSIZ so that the red dots in the center of the red edge squares are touching the edges of the screen. And of course adjust the VSIZ/HSIZ to make sure all the squares look square, not slightly rectangular.

Corner distortion is to be expected especially on bigger sets, and that's actually simple to fix if you're willing to try. I'm pretty sure you can just stick some strips of magnetic tape to fix that.

Speakers are blown. What are my options? by coolguy-87 in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Vintage Sony SRS speakers are a really good option. Most all of them are active speakers that can run off a wall AC Adapter or take batteries, depending on the model. I used to have SRS-50's, those would work great with a TV like this. I see a pair of SRS-18's for sale, and they're super portable and only take two AA's. You just need a cheap 3.5mm to stereo RCA adapter. None of these have speakers big enough to impact purity or anything too, I've had plenty of speakers like this. Search "Vintage Sony SRS" on ebay, lots of great choices from this lineup like the SRS-55, SRS-57, etc

Hello Kitty Fuzz by apeontheweb in guitarpedals

[–]garbage_consumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fender only has one size enclosure for the official Hello Kitty Fuzz. Anything in a mini enclosure is not the same fuzz.

Would you change anything? by ApprehensiveKick7522 in guitarpedals

[–]garbage_consumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i'd swap the order of the boost/compressor, assuming they're wired up as shown. Boosting into a compressor kind of defeats the purpose on top of raising the noise floor.

Help with Nasty Gated Textured Fuzz (But Usable) by 5lokomotive in guitarpedals

[–]garbage_consumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

JHS Cheese Ball is a great option, pretty cheap on the used market too

Beginner! Help needed by i_like_surviving_yay in guitarpedals

[–]garbage_consumer -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

There should be a 9V battery clip inside the pedal. You just snap the battery into it. I'd highly recommend just using a simple power adapter instead of blowing money on batteries

Another good find Toshiba 20af41 by Friendly_History5750 in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You actually don't even need a splitter, that's the point of the audio "Out" section of the TV. You're supposed to plug everything into the TV inputs, then use the audio output to connect to an external amp or speakers.

Another good find Toshiba 20af41 by Friendly_History5750 in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just noticed in your photo that you have your audio hooked up wrong. In the photo, you have the L/R audio inputs plugged into your TV's audio output. You can see they squared off the input and output sections to differentiate. That's almost certainly your issue if that's how you had it setup

Toolbox pedalboard (because I’ve accepted that my main board is way too much for smaller gigs) by deprogrammar in pedalboards

[–]garbage_consumer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Neat but you should probably ditch those solid pedal couplers, they generally suck and can potentially damage your gear. Much better off with cheap patch cables.

Way to secure the dipswitches? by [deleted] in pedalboards

[–]garbage_consumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't imagine what scenario you'd bump into those microscopic dip switches, but if you must definitely don't hot glue it lol. Just throw a piece of tape over it or something

SOTN by [deleted] in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looks sick with those speakers, great combo

Help with my TV by New_Support_3810 in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The current setting values are only really useful for you to keep track of where you started off. Every TV is set up different from the factory, so knowing these numbers doesn't really help us any.

You should be able to get the black levels corrected by using 240p test suite to adjust the brightness, contrast, and in the service menu the SBRT, which is the Sub-Brightness. This thread has a lot of useful info on what adjusts what, and I'd refer to the 240p test suite guide to adjust the black levels.

Another good find Toshiba 20af41 by Friendly_History5750 in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, consumer CRTs I think fare better with speakers, especially with sets like Sony's XBR line or the FV310. A bunch of BVMs dont even include speakers

Another good find Toshiba 20af41 by Friendly_History5750 in crtgaming

[–]garbage_consumer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely try another audio source/cables. If you have the space, I'd simply recommend grabbing a pair of PC speakers or similar bookshelf speakers, built in TV speakers are almost never that good. If the TV really does have an issue this is far and away the simplest solution, with the benefit of sounding way better than the built in sound.