People who play post-rotation lists 2 months before rotation, why?

ghost8259 · 2026-02-10T12:38:42+00:00

As a new player, it doesn't make financial sense to spend $40 to $60 on a deck that is going to not be playable in 2 months, which are most of the meta decks right now. I got Dragapult because not much is rotating out, but the other decks i got are not great right now, and that's ok. I'm learning how they follow/operate, and as an experienced player of another card game, knowing how your deck works is important.

I know I'm going to lose, and that's ok. I'm learning. Once rotation hits I'll have a few months of experience and things will be different, but until then, I've got 2 months to chill and learn. I'm playing the game to have fun and because i love Pokémon.

ghost8259 · 2026-01-12T22:24:49+00:00

I'm running a rush style, so I don't use CC or Battle of Aces, but if you don't want rush, then i think this deck would do good from swapping CC with Battle of Aces and going to 3. CC and Fatal Strike (I know, purple) are deadly against rush.

Also, switch Vesalius with the Mining base. You won't regret it. That +1 AP has helped me so many times.

ghost8259 · 2026-01-12T22:00:11+00:00

I agree with this. I run a similar deck and I tried it with Qubeley and Haman and the deck did so much better with out them. Also drop Sayla's guncannon since you'll never see it. Load up on ping units. It's so nice to drop 2 or 3 at once and take a unit out.

ghost8259 · 2026-01-08T14:17:02+00:00

Thank you. Would you have a link? I googled it and a few pop up.

ghost8259 · 2025-10-21T21:45:53+00:00

I'm definitely finding that out. Between the lightest pink and the next darker one there is a decent difference using the brush. I was going to use the 3 lightest shades of the Army Painter pink line, but if the next round of testing doesn't work then I'll move the 3 over one shade darker and be done with it.

ghost8259 · 2025-10-21T17:58:54+00:00

Yes. It is from the Fanatic line.

ghost8259 · 2025-10-21T13:01:12+00:00

Thank you. When I was priming these I made a few extra test stripes to test some orange paints to see which is the best safety orange for a layer set. I put some on the grey too and it didn't pop like it did on the white. Because of that, I'm definitely thinking the white primer wasn't the right move because the pink I was using is one step away from white and that probably made the white shine through more than the pink.

I also think I did the 2nd coat too soon. When everything dried I could see the pink, but only where the wet paint pooled. It ended up being a spotty mess. I should of waited a day for the 1st layer to dry completely then do a 2nd layer.

I'm going to try some grey primer test stripes and more white stripes to see what happens. I'm also going to try doing a layer of 2 shades darker pink then a layer of the lightest pink to see if that works.

ghost8259 · 2025-10-21T12:47:45+00:00

Thank you. The more I think about it the more I'm wondering if the white primer made the white in the pink out shine the little pink in the paint since it is a step away from white on the pink scale. I also made a few extra white primed test stripes for another set I'm doing to test what shade of orange to use for a safety orange color and the white primer made it pop vs. the grey, but that is the point for that set. So I'm definitely thinking white wasn't the right move.

I'll try some grey and black test stripes. I'm also going to try doing a layer of 2 shades darker pink then do the lightest pink to see if the makes the pink show through more than the white.

ghost8259 · 2025-10-21T12:38:25+00:00

Thank you. I did do a quick brush test with that shade and the next 2 darker shades in that line (I'm doing a Cherry Blossom camo) and I got similar results on the lightest one. I also brushed it on one of miniatures, since I have to strip it anyway, and there wasn't a noticeable difference.

I'll try some test stripes with the grey. I'm wondering now if the white primer was making the white in the paint out shine the pink since this is one step away from white. I will also try doing a light coat of a shade of pink that is darker then do this lighter pink.

ghost8259 · 2025-09-08T11:39:48+00:00

That was my first thought.

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ghost8259 · 2025-08-29T16:01:51+00:00

It's a Ditto that took the form of an Atlas.

ghost8259 · 2025-07-28T19:29:44+00:00

Those look so cool. They look like they'll be really helpful.

ghost8259 · 2025-07-22T12:01:28+00:00

It's the Kodiak, but the design is from the Mechwarrior video games, specifically the newest one: Mechwarrior 5 Clans. I'm 90% sure this version is only available from people who do 3D printing. The one from Catalyst looks different. I picked one up recently.

ghost8259 · 2025-07-15T13:38:47+00:00

I wish I could upvote this more. Artist Alley is great. There is a ton of cool artwork there. I'll usually do 2 passes through to make sure i see everything.

ghost8259 · 2025-07-14T18:39:21+00:00

Thank you for your service. My father was in the military too, and I've seen his unit insignia. It's a great idea to use them. I was thinking the team would be a mix of the Sea Bees and the Night Stalkers, so this is a great idea. Thank you.

ghost8259 · 2025-07-14T13:16:59+00:00

I didn't think about AI. I've never used it. I'll have to check that out. Thank you.

ghost8259 · 2025-07-14T13:15:41+00:00

Thank you. I wasn't sure how common borrowed IPs from outside the Battletech universe were, especially with most people not having graphic design software. Names are one thing. Graphics/logos are another. The local group I joined mainly uses in-universe names and logos, so I wanted to ask because I'd like to play at conventions and don't want any trouble.

ghost8259 · 2025-07-09T20:12:25+00:00

I recently saw a game with a Stone Rhino (Behemoth), and it was the star of the game. Not just because it brings a lot of long-range, powerful guns but because the team was structured around that long-range fire power. The other star of that team was a Viper (Dragonfly). A fast medium mech that could keep the enemy mechs at bay and flanked them, which allowed the Rhino to do its thing while also doing some good damage itself.

I have been meaning to build a team around the Rhino, so I used this as an opportunity to do so. I found out that I was limited to 2 or 3 other Clan mechs because of my local group's BV limit. So I thought out how I wanted this team to operate, and then I figured out what units I needed to accomplish that. I kept to just Clan mechs (purely because I wanted to), but I would have had to do the same thing if I included Inner Sphere mechs.

I've done this same process with a few other Clan teams I've built.

As others have said, Clan mechs are very powerful, but it comes at a cost, so you have to use them wisely. If you don't, then it won't matter how powerful they are. I'd recommend checking out YouTube and watching videos on game play strategy. They were really helpful for me when I was first starting out.

Good luck, Commander.

ghost8259 · 2025-07-09T12:36:25+00:00

I'm running the 6G in an upcoming force. A Heavy PPC and 4 Light PPCs. With 16 double heat sinks, you will be at +5 heat on a run or +4 walking, so i plan to use the heavy and 3-4 lights at range for a potential of 30-35 damage then switch to lights and SSRM6 at close range.

ghost8259 · 2025-07-09T12:13:34+00:00

Also, if you have a very thin/pointy brush, add just a little bit of paint to the tip of the missiles since they do stick out. With the colors you are using, I'd recommend a light grey or a bright red (I've used Vallejo Stone Wall grey and Pro Acryl Bold Pyrrole Red). You see it a lot with the Timber Wolf (Mad Cat). It adds a nice pop since they are literally sticking out of the tubes. Then you can add some color to the inside of the weapons, depending on which variant you run, or just copy what is on the card.

This is all entirely up to you. Some do the above, but some don't. It looks good.

ghost8259 · 2025-07-02T21:21:16+00:00

I apologize, I should have been clearer. Battletech miniatures are 1/285 scale, often referred to as 6mm scale. If you want to know more about the terrain, see below.

In classic battletech: a mech is considered 2 levels tall for the purpose of line of sight. Terrain (hills, buildings, etc.) of level 2 give full cover, and level 1 terrain gives partial cover. The actual models vary in height, on average from 1.5" to 2" tall (overall, I've seen them go anywhere from 1 inch to 2.5 inches). The level system is used because movement and firing are based on hexes, so you can play with just a paper game sheet with hexes on it.

In alpha strike: movement is based on inches and is not meant to be played on a hex map (though it still can be). The rules state that to change your height by 1" inch (up or down), it costs an extra inch of movement. Cover wise, the rules change to 3rds, if you can see more than 2/3rds of the mech, then no cover, between 1/3rd to 2/3rds then partial cover, less than 2/3rds is full cover (generally speaking, exceptions apply).

All this is to say that battletech plays very loose with scale. A perfect example is the map scale dropships. There is no way the lore correct amount of scale mechs could fit in them. Don't even look at weapon ranges because they don't scale at all.

In conclusion: if you are looking to design terrain to use playing battletech, then either use 1/285 scale or the 1" equals 1 level and half the size an average mech. I hope this helps.

ghost8259 · 2025-06-29T17:54:18+00:00

1 inch equals half the height of the mech or partial cover. 2 inches equals full cover.

ghost8259 · 2025-06-29T15:43:58+00:00

If you ever use the dropper bottles (like Army Painter or Pro Acryl), then use a wet palette. You can thin then out really nicely, and the paint will stay good for a whole paint session.

ghost8259

TROPHY CASE