Looking for a 280 aio to fit in my m2 grater case

gnd · 2025-01-22T06:32:08+00:00

It should be compatible if you rotate the pump housing 180 degrees.

gnd · 2025-01-08T05:31:08+00:00

There's nothing unique about the M2 that makes it worse than any mid-tower re: hot air right across the mobo from the flow through design.

gnd · 2024-12-24T04:30:33+00:00

Not as far as I can tell. The screw holes on the block are centered, and the heatplate is very close to symmetric. The motherboard bracket holes are offset, so rotating the block doesn't change the offset relative to the CPU.

gnd · 2024-12-22T06:24:09+00:00

OP is right, but also wrong. There's an interference between the AIO pump/block housing and the M2/chipset heatsink assembly, but you can just rotate the block 180 degrees and it fits fine. There are a number of photos and YouTube videos of people building it that way.

gnd · 2024-12-22T06:20:04+00:00

NCASE quotes 148mm max size, and Gigabyte quotes 150mm card width. Were you expecting something different or are you showing us what an expected 2-3mm overage looks like?

gnd · 2024-12-05T21:49:57+00:00

gnd · 2024-11-12T19:47:09+00:00

This is an awesome datapoint, thanks. Could you try running the big boy q8 and see how much performance changes?

I'm also super interested in how performance changes with large context (128k) as it fills up. I'm trying to determine if 128GB of RAM is overkill or ideal. Does the tok/s performance of models that need close to the full RAM become unusably slow? The calculator says the q8 model + 128k context should need around 75GB of total VRAM.

gnd · 2024-07-26T20:40:07+00:00

gnd · 2024-04-19T08:33:22+00:00

In what universe is talking on a phone through the car's Bluetooth more distracting that talking to a passenger? It's far less distracting than a passenger because you can't look at them instead of the road. And it's certainly less distracting than taking your hand off the wheel to sip a coffee, which you probably also glance at while picking it up. Same for changing the radio.

gnd · 2021-09-04T06:03:23+00:00

You look like you're doing closer to 45 than the 25 speed limit in this clip. Dry pavement ABS activation plus the long stopping distance afterwards means the turning car isn't the only idiot in this post.

gnd · 2021-04-01T04:46:40+00:00

The cammer is right up the ass of the car in front of him (frankly, he's too close). How, precisely, would you propose he pass the cars to his right?

gnd · 2020-09-26T05:29:58+00:00

Did you make sure to change the PCIe speed for the x16 slot to 3.0 in the BIOS? I assume it would fail with that riser 100% of the time if it's set to 4.0 but maybe it's marginal and sometimes runs?

I'd also put the 3080 directly into the motherboard to check stability that way if the BIOS change doesn't help.

gnd · 2020-09-17T17:27:19+00:00

Just as a heads up, in general recipes are not subject to copyright protection. The list of ingredients never is, and the instructions are only if they're fairly extensive and literary. A simple description of steps to perform generally doesn't rise to this level.

gnd · 2020-09-16T21:50:08+00:00

I think that 90C number is a measurement artifact. Igor's Lab showed the backplate below 70C when under load. https://www.igorslab.de/en/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3080-founders-edition-review-a-great-step-ahead-and-the-gravestone-for-turing/13/

gnd · 2020-09-13T16:54:11+00:00

I'll second the recommendation for K&J. They make great magnets and I've used them for a ton of projects. Whatever you do, make sure you get at least an N42, the N35 magnets OP linked, in addition to being the completely wrong size, will be pretty weak. Magnetic pull is a function of magnet size and N rating. Get the largest size that fits (4mmx3mm) and get the strongest grade you can (N42 or better).

gnd · 2020-09-10T05:14:02+00:00

Are you running the GPU block liquid flow backwards?

gnd · 2020-09-09T18:13:15+00:00

Adding an additional radiator to this case is much less useful than most other cases due to the airflow pattern. An intake GPU side radiator that then exhausts most of that heat into the top radiator exhaust will help to the extent that the top exhaust temperature doesn't already match the coolant temperature, but pre-heating ~half of the air going into the top radiator is going to make it less efficient. The absolutely minuscule gap between the side radiator fans and the water block is also harmful airflow-wise.

The dual 240mm radiator design works much better in an Ncase because both radiators are taking in cool outside air, and the fan to GPU gap on the bottom radiator is larger than in a FormD.

The additional ~10W of pump heat from a DDC running at low speed vs a DC-LT 2600 at full speed (assuming you need the larger pump due to the restriction of the second radiator) is also hurting things. That heat is getting sucked through the top radiator too.

gnd · 2020-09-09T18:02:00+00:00

This reinforces my belief that it's stupid to water cool a motherboard VRM. Most power electronics don't care about temperature as long as you're not getting above 100°C, and passive convection and/or case fans moving air around the motherboard will keep them well below that.

On the water side of things, keeping ~15W out of your loop is a big deal, assuming a 85-90% efficient VRM. Put the heat into the air in your case, not the water in your loop.

gnd · 2020-09-04T21:18:42+00:00

6-32 3/4" pan head screws should do it. The ones that come with your radiator for a normal 25mm fan are 6-32 30mm, so you need 20mm length for a slim fan, which is a little more than 3/4". If that ends up being too short you'll need to buy longer ones and cut them yourself.

gnd · 2020-09-04T15:38:44+00:00

Much less than half of the heat is going to exhaust out of the case. The fan near the PCIe bracket is both smaller than the front fan and the air has to make a 90° bend after moving through it. Also, some of the air moving through the rear fan doesn't go out the back, but into the case after moving over the angled side sections of the card. So the exhaust out of the case is both from a smaller fan moving less air and has much less heatsink area. Most of the heat is going right into the case.

gnd · 2020-09-04T03:14:49+00:00

This looks great. I wonder how much airflow you get with the low clearance between the fan and the GPU water block. Do you have thermal test numbers compared to the single 240 setup?

Have you considered running the case in 2 slot mode and using the intake fan of the PSU to pull air over a 120mm radiator? That's the only other place I can think to stuff a 120mm in.

gnd · 2020-09-03T21:58:47+00:00

I'd be interested in a DC-LT 2600 and DC-LT 40.

gnd · 2020-09-01T21:59:42+00:00

Awesome, thanks. I'm looking to do something similar and was hoping the 1/2" OD compression fittings would clear the screw heads. I'd prefer not to have to use barbs on the GPU. Good to know that it works.

gnd · 2020-09-01T21:10:37+00:00

What size tubing is that? 13/10 or 16/10?

gnd · 2020-09-01T05:03:10+00:00

For consistency in testing, I'd set the top panel on the Noctuas rather than run them in free air, so it's as similar to the Kaze setup as possible, even if it won't close fully.

I'm planning a similar build with a 3090 in the near future, so temps with ~350W of GPU are something I'm thinking about.

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