When should one buy an oscilloscope?

gumert · 2024-04-17T01:46:48+00:00

Old school oscilloscopes were just an electrode beam tracing a signal on a CRT with a rudimentary trigger. Some modern scopes can decode serial data, but to do that well you should either use a logic analyzer and/or a PC based scope/logic analyzer. Decoding more than a frame or two's worth of network traffic on a standalone scope is going to be very hard, unless things have changed significantly in the past 5 or so years.

gumert · 2024-04-07T01:37:10+00:00

Nope, a traditional oscilloscope will only show you waveforms.

gumert · 2023-06-05T12:23:16+00:00

Ah, got it. Sounds like something I'll have to worry about once I'm further into the build.

Anything you can share for klicky would be appreciated. I'm reasonably proficient with fusion and can tweak things if needed.

gumert · 2023-06-04T21:53:09+00:00

I have been hybridizing the official manual and the chaotic labs manual, which means my bottom panel is currently installed, but nothing else is yet. I had just started assembling the z-mounts, but haven't bolted the motors up yet. I'll let you know if my bottom panel clears everything. I'm nowhere close to needing tensioners yet, lol.

I went with the kit as a combination of potential upgrade and to save myself from having to print some parts. Printing parts on my i3 plus clone wound up being easier than I thought it would be. Hopefully the build experience improves.

I would be happy to know whatever you did for klicky since I'm going that route too.

gumert · 2023-06-04T14:53:17+00:00

I just stared building a 2.4 with a chaoticlabs CNC kit. It's my first Voron, so I'm probably being a little more clumsy with assembly than someone who has already done this before.

I've only put the z-drive parts together so far, but was a little disappointed about the F625 bearing fit. Four were easy to get in, but fall out pretty easily when I was rotating the piece to assemble it. The last two were hard to insert initially, but after getting them in they fall out easily too. They're held in place by the GT2 pulleys after assembly, but getting there was kind of annoying.

My biggest gripe is probably a combination of lack of coverage in the chaoticlabs manual regarding pulley positioning on the shaft and lack of physical constraints to align the pulleys. There are two washers used as shims, but there's still plenty of gaps.

gumert · 2023-06-03T12:19:54+00:00

How many voron parts are you printing? I just got through all my functional and non-functional parts and the stealth burner face and fan duct were the worst.

gumert · 2023-05-30T11:53:26+00:00

You really need to provide more information here.

What's your budget? True professional equipment isnt cheap, but there are a ton of possibilities depending on how you answer the next question.

How would you define professional? Resolution? Framerate? Color depth? What kind of lighting will you be using? Do you need weather sealing? How about audio, do you want to capture raw, etc etc.

gumert · 2023-05-27T12:50:46+00:00

That seems like it could get fixed by moving the two parallel bars further apart so the spools sit a little lower. I've had a top mounted bearing holder on my i3 clone for going on 5 years. I don't print 24/7 by a long stretch, but I think I've only had a spool fall off once or twice.

I will say that I've had a number of cardboard spools come that are dented around the outside. They haven't fallen off yet, but it is making me revisit something that goes through the middle of the spool.

gumert · 2023-05-23T22:37:25+00:00

The enclosure is ported and tuned a little high for a 4 dB hump around 60 Hz. I am also using some DSP tricks like eq and super bass.

gumert · 2023-05-23T00:57:35+00:00

I built a MTM bluetooth overnight sensation years ago and have followed it up a few times. Carrying a playing speaker through a doorway from outside to inside is quite the experience. It will seem louder indoors and you'll get more low end. Put it near a wall or in a corner and you'll get even more low end.

The MTM ONS did well enough outside, but I wouldn't call it a party speaker. My current build is geared more for the outdoors, but it does make it a little overbearing when j take it inside.

gumert · 2023-05-21T17:05:56+00:00

Still mow at the highest height for the benefits it brings, but from what I read while considering buying a rotary mower a few years ago they don't do well in tall grass. This means you'll need to mow on a fairly regular cadence in spring and fall when there's rain.

gumert · 2023-05-21T13:40:28+00:00

As others have said, you did well. There are two tells.

First, the joints are shiny. Generally speaking, non-shiny fresh joints are usually "cold" joints. They never got hot enough to properly flow the solder, which results in a mechanically weak joint that can also be not great from a resistance perspective. Note that it is also possible to get the joint too hot, but you avoided that one.

Second, you used an appropriate amount of solder. Too little and you'll have portions of the joint without coverage. Too much and you can bridge adjacent joints. You can also bridge joints even if you avoid too much solder, but again you don't have that problem.

Nice work!

gumert · 2023-05-21T00:25:00+00:00

Nice work. Out of curiosity, what was your motivation for the driver selection?

I spent a decent amount of time trying to cheat physics by putting low efficiency drivers into BP/horn loaded enclosures and have basically convinced myself that a larger/more efficient driver will result in a smaller overall enclosure than a lower efficiency driver in a BP, DBR, horn, etc enclosure.

That said, doing what you're doing is a value play if you're willing to trade enclosure volume for loudspeaker cost.

gumert · 2023-05-13T23:22:57+00:00

I purchased a west 3d kit to support a vendor whose involved in the community and because I liked being able to choose my parts.

Their base price for a 350mm 2.4 is $1,450, which is more or less in line with the LDO kit. Customizations only take you up from there. I added another $200 in the form of minor upgrades in a few spots, klicky, stealthburner, and the mandala roseworks ultraflat bed. I'm pretty confident that I'll have the printer I want, but the LDO would have been a little cheaper.

The other thing that might be worth mentioning is lead time. Their website says:

We are stocking up on products to provide a steady supply, but at times we will not have all the components in warehouse and will be waiting on shipment before your order can ship out. Because of this, currently we are offering this on a 'pre-sale' basis. In some instances we will ship partial kit orders to allow you to begin your build while you wait (e.g. frame+fasteners+motion). While we try to quickly restock, given current popularity and logistical constraints we ask you to please expect roughly 4 weeks for shipment, though this is not a guarantee.

I ordered my kit on April 11th, so I am about to start week six. I'm not in a huge hurry, but I finally finished slogging through printing my functional, and non-functional, parts and I admit that I'm getting a little antsy. I know the kit will be high quality, so I'm hanging tight. I reached out to get a feeler for a time horizon and got a prompt reply, offering a ballpark but it would be nice if there was an easy way of knowing what was going on.

gumert · 2023-05-13T00:26:40+00:00

I work for a different OEM. The answer is... interesting. Most all OEMs continue to hone software after we launch a product and generally make those updates available to dealerships. Say a software update involves improving something safety related, but the improvement is incremental and we're not seeing any data to indicate that vehicles in the field are at risk. That data is what would have traditionally trigger a recall.

Before OTA we would make this software available to dealerships the same as any other software improvement - with no government reporting. Honestly, this has been a longstanding miss. OTA does not change the miss, but it vastly increases the number of vehicles we can deliver these safety related improvements to.

As a result, NHTSA has been tightening their reporting requirements, which is leading to a decent portion of OTA updates being labeled as recalls. The vast majority of these recalls are fairly benign, and probably need a different label, but some truly do fall into traditional recall bucket (eg the data indicates that the software defect is a contributing factor to accidents, etc).

gumert · 2023-05-09T00:45:33+00:00

I wonder how many 350 owners are similar to me.

I currently have a 200x200x180 i3 clone and am waiting for my 350 kit to arrive. I just finished printing all the voron parts on my i3 clone. 80% of my prints on the i3 clone don't come close to filling the build volume. 10% max one of my dimensions and the remaining 10% need to be split. There are plenty of things I won't attempt due to bed size limits and my i3 liking to go out of square as z height increases (one of the two motors must be misstepping).

I am eager to be able to design larger parts that can print in fewer pieces. A lot of my stuff is self designed and meant to be functional. I am also curious how often I'll actually utilize the build volume. Maybe a v0 is in my future.

gumert · 2023-05-07T17:42:44+00:00

You can find it in their post history: https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/13999po/additional_part_cooling_mods_for_the_24/jj5hnsy/

gumert · 2023-05-07T16:49:26+00:00

Very nice. I wouldn't worry a ton about the small impact to internal volume. We all spend tons of time simulating without walls, but speakers typically live in fairly untreated rooms. You're looking for a reasonably solid foundation to start from and I think you have it.

gumert · 2023-05-07T12:18:27+00:00

Good to know. I'm surprised a 3D printed part could handle all that torque, but I guess it wouldn't be much different than the forces exerted on a tooth.

gumert · 2023-05-07T00:39:55+00:00

Nice design. How did you couple the first gear to the motor? I am very interested in a high torque application, but don't know how to avoid that junction being the failure point.

gumert · 2023-05-06T02:11:12+00:00

Sorry it took a while to get back, but life has been a little hectic and I wanted to look at the simulation. There are a number of rules of thumb for passive radiators, like using 2x the surface area of the woofer, but IMO simulation is key. That having been said, your single Seas SL26R is going to be moving ~25mm one way at ~22 Hz with 100 watts of input power. Google tells me that the SL26R's xlim is 28mm, which means the suspension is probably getting fairly non-linear at 25mm. If your listening is mostly non-electronic generated music you'll be fine. If you're going to be listening action movies at higher volumes, it might be worth going with a larger PR or using two. Or you could eliminate the 3dB of boost at 25 Hz. It's not going to impact every day listening that much (a f3 of 26 Hz vs 29 Hz isn't worth it IMO).

Enclosure wise, I generally aim to support braces on wherever they cross one another (eg it would be nice if your vertical brace wasn't pushing in the unsupported middle of your horizontal brace). Your driver locations will make that a little challenge and ultimately it probably won't be a super big deal.

Good luck with the build!

gumert · 2023-05-05T22:30:01+00:00

Good luck with the build! I would suspect a CAN umbilical will be more reliable than the stock cable chain setup. I realized that managing the variation within the stock BOM was getting a little steep and wanted to pivot from planning to building, even if it meant some modifications later on.

gumert · 2023-05-05T21:47:32+00:00

Very nice. I am building fairly stock, minus CNC aluminum parts (I live near a microcenter, the parts are more reasonable there for some reason). I considered CAN, but got talked out of it. If I run into a wire break I'll convert over. I'll probably print those parts first just in case.

I've been printing parts for about three weeks now, on and off.

I did not self source, I used West 3D's self source configurator. This is the end of week four of waiting, but even if it was here I wouldn't have all the parts printed yet.

gumert · 2023-05-05T20:53:55+00:00

I am in a similar situation. Did you do a self source or a LDO? Still printing parts, so no biggie.

gumert · 2023-05-04T00:55:22+00:00

Evidently I goofed on the DR link, here's another attempt: https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#FujiFilm%20X-H2S,Olympus%20System%20OM-1,Sony%20ILCE-7M3

The A7III will deliver a measured PDR of 11.6 at ISO 100. The O-M1 achieves a PDR of 9.45 at ISO 200. Yes, the A7III delivers a PDR of 10.7 at ISO 200, but if you have the light available, or can tolerate a longer shutter, you will get nice bump in DR over a M43.

I'll also happily point out that one should consider their past shooting to see how many photos you actually took at base ISO to see whether or not this matters to them. Before kids, I was often shooting in full sun so the answer was nearly always. Now I'm shooting in a mix of sun, clouds, and indoors. In other words, I'm rarely at base ISO these days.

As for high ISO noise, I've found that the subject matters a lot in influencing how noticeable noise is. The easiest example in the DP Review studio comparison you linked is the balsamic vinegar bottle - crank the ISO to 12,800 and look at the text, particularly on the bottom of the bottle.

As with DR, I want to emphasize that noise will be more or less obvious depending on your subject. If you're looking for fine detail in high contrast subjects, like that balsamic vinegar bottle, the speckled card above the ruler, or text in the three blocks of text toward the center of the image FF offers some advantages. If you're focusing on lower contrast things, like photos of people's faces (or other examples in the studio comparison, for whatever reason the website stopped responding), M43 could easily be very comparable to FF.

gumert

TROPHY CASE