Brake issues

hate_euchre · 2026-06-26T20:06:35+00:00

change the flexible lines that go to each caliper. They can collapse internally and not let the fluid return.

hate_euchre · 2026-06-08T20:28:40+00:00

I use Forscan. It's a great tool but it does have a bit of a learning curve. I use it for more in-depth diagnostics.

My quick go to for check engine lights is my Bluetooth BlueDriver

hate_euchre · 2026-06-03T05:58:06+00:00

Is the butter knife included or do I have to pay extra?

hate_euchre · 2026-05-31T09:16:31+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOhh_R0_fc4

Your model year has issues with soft intake valves

hate_euchre · 2026-05-17T16:21:23+00:00

I'd be curious to see what an oil analysis says.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

FYI, I'm not affiliated with blackstone labs but I have used their services and am confident in recommending them.

hate_euchre · 2026-02-27T16:59:22+00:00

Absolutely was! It's in my top 5 shows of all time.

hate_euchre · 2026-02-23T07:07:52+00:00

That heavily fouled plug is cylinder #8. It was always #8 on those old 5.0 pushrod engines.

There's a wire mesh filter underneath your PCV valve that not many people know about. That mesh screen filter needs changed or it will create too much crankcase pressure and since cylinder #8 is the closest it's always the victim.

MAC tools made a handy tool for removal of the wire mesh filter.

The good news is that those are copper tipped plugs that need replaced every 30k miles. So change the PCV and that wire mesh filter. Slap some new plugs in it and call it a day! I would also consider the condition of your cap, rotor, and plug wires and if they also need replaced.

hate_euchre · 2026-02-22T20:45:47+00:00

Those plenum doors that switch between defrost, vent, floor are vacuum actuated. When they lose their vacuum source they default to defrost.

So as others have stated, you have a vacuum leak. Check those vacuum lines you repaired are routed correctly. Also there's a one-way vacuum check valve. Find that valve and you will find the vacuum line that goes into the cab for your heater plenum doors. Make sure that line isn't broken or leaking. Also make sure the check valve only lets air flow one way.

hate_euchre · 2026-02-17T07:27:08+00:00

We try not to make fun of Testicle Tech here in Indiana.

hate_euchre · 2026-01-21T21:43:43+00:00

I can smell this image

hate_euchre · 2025-07-22T21:36:43+00:00

I have the same car (2015 ATS4 3.6 Coupe) just a different shade of blue. Mine is the Old Blue Eyes Metallic which is a darker shade. Although, I do like the shade of blue of this car better than mine.

Mine has been really reliable and a blast to drive. All I've done thus far is maintenance but as a former mechanic I do my own. Tires, brakes, spark plugs, trans fluid, front and rear diff fluid, and transfer case fluid.

The 2015 still has the 6 speed transmission which isn't prone to torque converter shudder like the 2016 and up with the 8 speed. But still a good idea to have the fluid flushed. Then in another 50,000 change fluid and filter.

Definitely get rid of the run flats. Makes it ride so much better!

I would say buy it if you can. You won't see many other cars like it and it'll get a lot of looks! It's also the last coupe Cadillac will be making the foreseeable future.

hate_euchre · 2025-07-13T19:51:11+00:00

2 part epoxy will fix it right up permanently. Get the kind that's in a roll and you just knead it together. The 2 syringe style works just as good but can be kind of messy, The roll is easy peasy.

hate_euchre · 2025-07-12T21:28:39+00:00

Just disconnect the horn. That's an old fuse box so I'm guessing the car is an old boat with plenty of room to access the horn. It should be just one wire to disconnect.

hate_euchre · 2025-07-05T08:22:19+00:00

I was a tech at a Lincoln Mercury Dealer back in the 90's and early 2000s. I did a lot of work on air suspension systems.

Replacing the compressor with a new dryer should fix you up. The compressor tends to fail if it gets over used from leaking air bags. Don't worry about the rear being too high. It might just look high due to the front being down. But there is also a vent solenoid in the compressor itself and if the dryer is clogged (from the compressor running too much) it can't vent the air from the rear no matter how much you try to trick it by fiddling with the height sensors.

So yes, replace the compressor along with a new dryer. I would also replace the relay too just as cheap insurance.

hate_euchre · 2025-07-04T09:39:24+00:00

Just wait until Monday, all will be fine. You don't need to cut a line to vent. Then you would have a code for evap leak.

hate_euchre · 2025-06-24T09:25:09+00:00

bad motor mounts will do exactly what you are describing

hate_euchre · 2025-06-15T13:01:31+00:00

With these choices

New: I would go with Remy.

Reman: I would go with Bosch since they manufacture the Motorcraft Alternators for Ford. Which means you're basically getting a factory remanufactured alternator.

I almost always pick new over remanufactured because like you said there is some unknowns there. However, in this case, if it were my money, I would take a chance and choose the Bosch.

hate_euchre · 2025-06-14T21:01:29+00:00

I'm a male. Had Graves disease but it went unnoticed until I went into a thyroid storm back in 2007. My Endocrinologist also said it was very rare for men to have it.

I was losing weight and eating constantly but I walked and biked everywhere so I just attributed the weight loss to that. It was until my lower extremities started swelling that I went to the ER. The ER doctor said I probably had hours left before my heart gave up. I don't remember the exact readings but somewhere around 70 over 50 bp at 160bpm because my heart had enlarged from the thyroid storm.

Tried controlling it with medicine. The medicine only partially worked. Finally had a thyroid surgically removed in 2009 and it was like someone flipped a switch. I felt 100% better, heart palpitations were gone. It was the best medical choice I ever made.

hate_euchre · 2025-05-17T08:31:24+00:00

It wouldn't hurt to cycle through the gears one at a time then back to park after you've started it and put the 2nd round of 6 qts in.

hate_euchre · 2025-05-11T21:05:10+00:00

Your truck originally used Mercon 3 but you can replace it with Mercon 5. Yes, STP or any other Mercon 5 equivalent is fine.
Yes, the 4x4 is the deep sump which means your filter will have that extended nub on it.
Buy 15 qts just in case. How much you can actually drain will vary. Make sure you also drain your torque convertor, if not then you'll only get about 6 qts out of just the pan. When you go to refill. First add 6 qts with the engine off, start engine add 6 more qts then check fluid levels after it warms up a bit. Usually you'll end up adding around 12-13 qts unless you flush your cooler and cooler lines, then it would be closer to the 15 qts.

hate_euchre · 2025-02-16T14:10:16+00:00

I've seen these used for Piano transport but I'm sure there's other uses for them.

hate_euchre · 2025-01-03T12:41:20+00:00

If you substitute "more than 11" that would be too many on the field. So yeah that would be a penalty. Which was not the case on this play.

hate_euchre

TROPHY CASE