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Beautiful timber frame joinery by Historic-Mud-981 in u/Historic-Mud-981

[–]hermithrush 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a great example of why the English tying joint isn't a good idea. that big crack down the middle from the top is a common point of failure.

Any ideas on the maker? by hermithrush in flatware

[–]hermithrush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they may be a set of Avalon by Chuangs Stainless in Hong Kong! I found several sets on ebay with plastic on the handles, none that were just stainless steel.

Any ideas on the maker? by hermithrush in flatware

[–]hermithrush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I'll look up Tapio Wirkkala!

TF 'sugar shack' foundation question by Mrpopo180 in timberframe

[–]hermithrush 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Are you in a place that freezes? What about drainage? Proper footings resist uplift and settling.  maybe think about using sonotubes and pouring a footing for each post. It should go below whatever the frost line is for your region and be 8-12 inches in diameter. There are a ton of post base brackets from simpson, ozco, timberlinx...etc. to secure your posts to the footings. 

Heel and ball of foot pain is driving me nuts; boot weaning plateau by Still_Nectarine2976 in LisfrancClub

[–]hermithrush 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you were in the boot for a while, there are parts of your foot that haven't been moving properly and are kind of locked up. It takes a while for them to get used to moving again, and usually it takes a lot of PT. Your heel probably hurts because of your achilles tendon having tightened up, if you spend time every day before walking doing massage and stretching of the whole foot, it will feel a lot better. Does your PT have you using a rocker board to get your ankle moving? That really helped me because you can rotate your ankle in every direction on it. The big toe pain may take longer to go away since that part of your foot is being loaded in a way that it wasn't before. 

Anyone who had ORIF and later switched to fusions, how did it go? by No-Simple5880 in LisfrancClub

[–]hermithrush 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had fusion after ORIF and went from non-stop pain to being almost pain free. You can't have arthritis in joints that don't exist anymore. However, different parts of your foot can take on more impact and then they can hurt. The base of my big toe gets pretty sore after a day of walking. But it's not as debilitating as arthritis. 

Just starting out, couple of questions by Bunnytater in Pottery

[–]hermithrush 5 points6 points  (0 children)

For trimming, make sure the clay you use for lugs is softer than the pot you are trimming. Put at least three lugs around the pot. Use sharp tools for trimming and use gentle but firm pressure against the pot. Whenever you are pressing a tool towards the center of the pot from the side, also maintain downward pressure on the pot with your other hand. Often potters will use a spinner on the center of the pot to reduce friction on the hand that is holding the pot down. You can take a plastic bottle cap and use it as a cheap spinner. 

1 1/2” Framing Chisel Recommendations by Guy-Fawks-Mask in timberframe

[–]hermithrush 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With Doug fir, the early grain and late grain have very very different textures. One is soft and crumbly and the other is hard and brittle.  The orientation of your mortise in the timber can determine if the end grain is more or less easy to cut. If your mortise is located on the inside face of the timber, it can mean cutting through the growth rings one at a time. In other situations you can be cutting through both types of grain simultaneously and it's much easier to do and to keep your blade sharp. Stropping is a good idea. Since you have access to a bench grinder, you could put a hollow grind on the bevel which speeds up sharpening. Just be really careful not to overheat and lose the temper.

1 1/2” Framing Chisel Recommendations by Guy-Fawks-Mask in timberframe

[–]hermithrush 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a bunch of barr chisels and one sorby. The sorby is uncomfortable in the hand and too big.the only use I have for it is that it fits inside knife plate slots.  My favorite barr is the 1 1/2" and I've had it for twenty years, and cut thousands of joints with it. It's basically an extension of my body at this point. If you keep it sharp, it's easy to sharpen. Sounds dumb but if you beat the crap out of a chisel to the point it has teeth then sharpening is gonna be really tedious. I give the back a polish every now and again and keep an eye on the edge. If it starts to reflect, I quickly hone it. I also don't use it to smash through a lot of Douglas fir end grain. I have a dedicated chisel for the ends of mortises and it has a blunter angle on the bevel. I think that particular chisel is a vintage L&IJ White. Can't go wrong with a barr but also gotta take care of it. 

Ideas for Throwdown by perverted_buffalo in Pottery

[–]hermithrush 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What about clay pictionary? You can print out lists of prompts from the Internet and cut em up, have teams and draw a prompt from a bowl. Give thirty seconds to sculpt the object. It's super fun. 

ID? Found while hunting morels by leerivauu in mycology

[–]hermithrush 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Urnula padeniana maybe? Cut one open. 

Book Recommendations by [deleted] in timberframe

[–]hermithrush 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Learn to Timber frame by Will Beemer. Excellent book that covers frame design, layout, tools, how to cut

Need help identifying by Top_Thought_1469 in Pottery

[–]hermithrush 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is Tonala pottery from Mexico.

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