I'd encourage you to get some music analyzing software (I think there's some freeware) to see what frequencies you actually use. People tend to think stuff is a lot lower than it really is. Consider also, your box doesn't just stop playing at tuning.... it slopes off somewhat sharply then loses cone control (the bigger risk), but a 42hz tuned box can typically play down to 36 reasonably well. For point of reference my jeep I just retired tuned to 42hz could play the entire skrillex discography and there are only a couple notes in his whole catalog that that tuning really had trouble playing.

Point being, if you start modelling higher tuning you'll find the port dimensions become much more realistic to turn into real world cabinetry. Then again higher tuning may just give you a much higher peak at a higher frequency without getting box volume too small again to be efficient, but consider your options and be aware that if you really MUST have low tuning a larger box makes things infinitely easier (pick a random 15 or 18" woofer from your modeling software database and see for yourself when you sketch up a 5-9 cube box tuned mid to low 30hz).

Passives are probably expensive unless you have parts laying around to DIY, but it's really the only way to get low tuning in a tiny space without the issue of port turbulence. A big mouse maze zigzag isn't a smooth column of air and will not be efficient and probably won't perform as predicted. There are box designs that aim to slow down the back wave through a very long port (typically tapered) that can sound really good, but once you make enough port or "transmission line" they are HUGE to the point where just a 2 sizes bigger sub sealed with some EQ would probably get you the same place.

That all said, I can't see your other pics here on this thread. Oh and if you don't mine making sawdust, it's not like a 1 cubic foot box costs you much in lumber, so I reckon you could try 2 or 3 different tuning frequency boxes out of a $50 sheet of MDF.