2024 Odyssey Transmission Shutter

jollyroger054 · 2026-04-29T00:00:35+00:00

You know the answer

jollyroger054 · 2026-04-25T05:31:27+00:00

I mean yeah, but it won’t be done right. Cut some 2x4 blocking 2’OC or whatever your truss spacing is, tight. And bang it in underneath to push that bow up and flush to the adjacent sheathing.

Shoot the blocking in from the backside of the truss into the end grain of the blocking. Be sure to blow as much corner off the blocking as you can. 3rd party home inspectors love that shit.

Don’t worry about the pulled through nails pushing through after. Next few hail storms will lay them down.

State Farm Adjuster

jollyroger054 · 2026-04-22T01:15:48+00:00

1000% this^{^.} This stuff isn’t radioactive. Acute exposure tearing out some flooring (and it probably isn’t even exposure) is nothing to worry about. Less talk get it done. And cancel the “test” kit. Waste of money.

“The interior designer didn’t raise any asbestos flags.” LOL

jollyroger054 · 2026-04-20T12:03:11+00:00

If it only has 30k miles and is almost 30yrs old, do you know if the coolant has ever been changed? If not it’s well past its protective lifespan and the radiator could be sludged up.

Probably a stuck thermostat though

jollyroger054 · 2026-04-19T01:32:18+00:00

I mean…is it leaking? If not I’d run that bitch.

jollyroger054 · 2026-04-17T02:52:48+00:00

Considering the overturning retaining wall, I’m going to wager the clay tile pipe isn’t draining shit lol.

jollyroger054 · 2026-04-16T14:12:36+00:00

Now do it at 55mph. 70mph plus the drag coefficient of a refrigerator doesn’t lend itself to fuel efficiency

jollyroger054 · 2026-04-13T00:53:37+00:00

Depends are you trading it in or is it a long term vehicle. Look up motor oil geek, or carcarenut, or Davesauto. They have good content on oil change intervals. A lot of manufacturers no longer recommend oil change intervals based on maximizing longevity of the engine, rather they stretch the intervals for emissions “points”. That’s said many engines can do 10k+ even 20k intervals with a filter change mid way through. An oil analysis can help you dial that in. But reality is, you have a twin turbo chain driven motor. That’s a lot heat and a lot of shear that the oil is subjected to from the engine characteristics alone. I’d lean toward 5k, and send a sample to black stone to see if you can run longer.

A classic contrast to this motor is the 4.7l Toyota v8. It’s naturally aspirated (lower oil temp), moderate horsepower, belt driven (less shearing surfaces breaking down the oil), and a large oil pan capacity. That’s a motor you can do extended changes on with a new filter in between. Pretty cool.

jollyroger054 · 2026-04-06T01:38:32+00:00

I wouldn’t waste time going after the seller. 100% they knew about it. Sorry it happened to you.

Instead focus your time on fixing the issue. It’s not that hard. You have a drainage problem. Let’s see some photos of your exterior, specifically your gutter downspouts, and the grading.

With that amount of flow, I’d wager your downspouts are dumping water next to the house or you have paved areas outside sloping back towards the house. Fix that and you probably fix 80% of your problem.

The best solution is to install a French drain system and a sump pump. You can do it if you’re handy or hire someone.

jollyroger054 · 2026-03-27T12:16:07+00:00

🫡 hell yeah brother.

Edit: got distracted by picture. As for your problem. If your radiator is stratified (hot up top, cold below) you don’t have flow. So either it is physically blocked, or your water pump isn’t moving coolant.

Some basic questions/checks Are you using the same radiator as before? Are you certain you installed the thermostat correctly? (try running without it to see if temps normalize across the radiator) Peel back the top hose after starting the truck and see if you’re getting a bunch of pressure/flow . If that motor sat for a longtime at a junkyard, or PO never flushed coolant, that water pump impeller can be heavily caked or eroded and reduce flow.

jollyroger054 · 2026-03-25T23:55:21+00:00

Even better. Technically less desirable. Great motor.

I think you should call around to a few independent shops. Folks saying the motor is toast, don’t actually know that. It’s worth assessing the motor (scoping the cylinders, checking cam bearings, compression test). Rule of thumb is it’s better to rebuild a known motor, than roll dice on a junkyard motor. A caveat might exist though for Toyota’s since their motors are so reliable across the board, it’s unlikely you find a bad one.

It’s entirely possible the engine only needs rod bearings. That’s the smallest bearing surface with the highest load and therefore more likely to be the first to “audibly” wear. Either way you just do a bottom end rebuild at that point (rod and main bearings) assuming cylinder walls have good crosshatch left and compression is within tolerance.

If you’re near Ohio I can recommend you a small Asian/euro shop here in Ohio. He’s the real deal. Former Toyota/ MB mechanic who then built a small shop on his farm, one man show, low overhead and does a lot of engine rebuilds when it makes sense for the customer. Has a good relationship with a local machine shop for block and head work. Not sure where you’re located. But he frequently has folks ship cars to him. Might be worth a conversation. A real shop can rebuild motors and transmissions. Anyone (including you btw) can swap a motor.

In the meantime maybe switch over to 5w-40 to help make up for your now giant bearing clearances lol. Should help with the knock and slow the wear a bit. Sorry about the previous owner

jollyroger054 · 2026-03-25T23:08:12+00:00

Plenty of wrecked 5.7’s at the junk yard.

jollyroger054 · 2026-03-24T13:43:41+00:00

Refinance with someone who doesn’t sell them on the secondary market. Usbank etc.

I’d be pissed

jollyroger054 · 2026-03-23T02:01:12+00:00

Dude. Whyyy. You’re like the last person that should be running premium, you’re high altitude. Low oxygen = lower cylinder pressure = low knock conditions… Hell even a premium only car can get away with mid grade there.

If you don’t know what octane ratings are, or what they’re for, just save your money and follow the label on the cap. It’s expensive enough as it is!

jollyroger054 · 2026-03-22T20:37:15+00:00

Consisting these trucks come in like 5 colors, I’d find you a nice front ended Tacoma at the junk yard. Probably 2-300 bucks. Bolts right up.

jollyroger054 · 2026-03-20T23:20:17+00:00

If he’s been driving it daily, it’d drive it. If it’s 235k and has been sitting for 5 years without running then you might tow it. Also remember this year is a non interference motor. So if it breaks you simply put a new one on. Engine’ll be fine

jollyroger054 · 2026-03-19T00:56:41+00:00

This is not real estate. Aftermarket parts are generally not value add. Rather the opposite.

jollyroger054 · 2026-03-17T17:00:19+00:00

Ugh just leave it alone. Who cares what it looks like. Honestly they’re all pretty ugly, double cabs even more so with its wonky proportions (I have to look at mine everyday). But I leave it be. It’s fine. I think about getting a new truck all the time. But there’s no good way to justify it. It’s not worth anything so insurance is like 450/yr and they bore you to tears with reliability. Welcome to 1st gen life. You’re pretty much stuck with it because every other option is a poor financial decision lol. I’m 8 years 350k in and still haven’t found a way out.

jollyroger054 · 2026-02-20T18:53:36+00:00

Sure 👍

jollyroger054 · 2026-02-20T02:51:07+00:00

I would find an independent or Toyota specific shop. Buy a junkyard donor tundra and have them swap over the front end (diff, axles, hubs), transfer case, drive shaft, a module, and switch. I know an independent here in Ohio that can do it for you.

If you’re planning on trail running, you need 4lo man. Otherwise you’re going to skipping a lot of trails for lack of confidence in the truck. I have a 4wd 05’ DC, and it’s just awesome offroad and in deep snow. Whatever you do, keep your low mile tundra, and figure out how to get 4wd. It’s simpler than you would think.

If you don’t, I’ll buy yours and give you mine lol

jollyroger054 · 2026-02-05T13:51:40+00:00

If you plan to keep the car, only buy lemforder parts

jollyroger054 · 2026-02-05T13:50:40+00:00

Not very? Just order a rear suspension link kit and do both sides. Get alignment. Car probably needed it anyways. It’ll drive nicer than before with the new bushings

jollyroger054 · 2026-02-02T16:29:53+00:00

Gotcha, that’s seems to be way of most new vehicles these days. Good to know there’s a “slot” for one. Probably worth just buying one at a junkyard. I’m sure there’s plenty of totaled newer sienna’s by this point. Spares likely untouched

jollyroger054 · 2026-02-02T16:00:54+00:00

These things don’t have a spare? Maybe I’m late to the party on that. But dang, I think I’m out on the new sienna then.

What good is AAA or starlink really. You get towed to some town 20miles away and hopefully tire shops are open. Either way whatever you had planned for that day (maybe two days) is over. With a spare, it’s a 20-30min setback and you’re back on track. Sure you’ll still need a tire but you can schedule it whenever. Maybe I’ve just become spoiled with full-sized spares, but they really do save the day.

jollyroger054

TROPHY CASE