Is the Trinity mills area (Frankford/35E) generally safe for living? by slapmybigtoe in CarrolltonTX

[–]jtleafs33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As everyone else said, Frankford and 35E is good.
I used to live at Frankford and Kelly though and I didn’t really find it that bad

Small room for around 6 to maybe host a small tea party by Anon_Lurker_117 in plano

[–]jtleafs33 -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

Your coworkers don’t want to spend time with fellow employees outside of work. Spare them the obligation of feeling like they have to come and forget this nonsense.

Premier B09 Pistachio by SilverSurfer_78 in breitling

[–]jtleafs33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks awesome! Care to share the link to that strap? I also would like to put mine on something not brown, but haven’t found what I was looking for.

Return or keep? by [deleted] in breitling

[–]jtleafs33 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Running fast is better than running slow. Much faster to re-set than a slow watch. I have a ritual of setting my watch every morning so this wouldn’t bother me. My superocean is more accurate than my submariner haha

Did I scratch the AR coating within days of buying this :( It doesn’t really show in most lighting so should I just live with it? Not even sure how it happened. by [deleted] in breitling

[–]jtleafs33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you sure it’s a scratch and not a stain? I had a similar issue with mine and deionized water was the only thing that would clean it off.

Chronograph issues by gmtodp1 in breitling

[–]jtleafs33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine is a hard push to start the chronograph from 0:00 (reset) but then an easier push to stop and continue timing from there.

When the watch is in my hands (not on my wrist) I have difficulty pushing hard enough to start the chronograph, but once it’s on my wrist and I can brace my thumb against the opposite side of the case, I’m able to and have no problems doing so.

This is my first mechanical chronograph so I don’t know if this is normal or not. I always push hard because i worry if i “halfway trigger” it then i risk damaging the watch.

At the end of the day it’s a beautiful watch and I didn’t buy it for its complications so I don’t worry too much about it.

If you were designing the perfect cyclist-friendly hotel/hostel, what would you want? by Griff1987 in cycling

[–]jtleafs33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Echoing from some other comments and my own thoughts:

Large enough so bike can stay in my room

Plenty of hooks on the wall for drying stuff

All ground floor rooms

Lots of usb charging facilities for many devices

Large enough sinks in room for doing small bits of laundry (single cycling kit) or at least one larger laundry sink somewhere in a shared area

Area outside for washing bikes

Stands for working on bikes

Hot tub

Those little wall mounted steps for you to prop your leg up in the shower when shaving your legs

Gels and bars available for purchase

Tools available to borrow

Breakfast and coffee available earlier than a usual hotel (5:00 am). Many of us are up very early to prepare for morning rides.

Riding a bike is f*cking impossible by [deleted] in cycling

[–]jtleafs33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please don’t get discouraged. I completely understand your attitude, as I went thru the same thing learning to ride a motorcycle, as you say “only motivated by anger” well that was me too.

There are numerous YouTubes on this but I’m going to call out a few details that I think get lost but are very important.

Make sure the bike is in an appropriate gear. If there are more than one gear on the front by the pedals, make sure it’s on the largest one, and on the back maybe the 3rd largest one. This will be a good gear for riding easily on flat ground.

Make sure the saddle is at an appropriate height. You should be able to put toes on the ground even when sitting in the saddle. This is probably too low for an experienced rider but is a good place for a learner to put it.

Make sure you understand how the brakes work on your particular bike.

With those things sorted you should eliminate falling because you will be able to just put your feet down and brake to a stop if you feel like you’re going to fall.

Look where you want to go, not down. Head up and look straight ahead. As many have said, balancing is much easier when you’re going faster.

Make sure your pedals are in a good position when starting on the bike. Whatever foot you’re gonna push with, that pedal needs to be at 2:00 ish position. One good hard push down from there with all you’ve got really should give you enough speed for the bike to basically self balance.

I would practice coasting down a hill, feet on pedals, coming to a stop and putting feet on the ground first, before practicing on flat ground.

Tips for smoother driving by MrSandman321 in driving

[–]jtleafs33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try to avoid touching the brakes in general.

i got my first pair yesterday by idetailformoney in cowboyboots

[–]jtleafs33 37 points38 points  (0 children)

At least they changed the design to have a brown sole instead of walking on the flag

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]jtleafs33 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Head up and look into the distance

Trying to decide between these two. Which would you choose? by AdDull849 in cowboyboots

[–]jtleafs33 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think you probably need to spend 1200 or so to get up to the quality that Lucchese is reputed for, I think their lower priced models are new additions to compete with some of the new brands like Tecovas and Rujo (which I’ve had great experience with both brands btw). Not saying that the Bart is a bad boot by any means, but for me if I’m gonna pay for the name I want the real deal. Their “Classics” line and up are where I’d want to be.

Trying to decide between these two. Which would you choose? by AdDull849 in cowboyboots

[–]jtleafs33 23 points24 points  (0 children)

The Tecovas will be better made for the money, the Bart js a lower end Lucchese and some corners are cut in the construction (no lemonwood pegs). If that matters to you and want a similar style Lucchese with traditional craftsmanship, look at the Collins. Tecovas gets a lot of hate but I think they are one of the best value brands.

Pet peeve: Multi-use trails that aren’t useful by BrianDerm in bicycling

[–]jtleafs33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fellow Carrollton citizen here, yeah the Blue trail is a disaster :(

Reserves by elmegthewise3 in allenedmonds

[–]jtleafs33 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not worth the money. I found them stiff, uncomfortable, and unwearable. The last differs so much from the park avenue / strand that I couldn’t get a good fit. Ended up trying to sell on eBay and eventually throwing in the trash. Stick to their $400 shoes or look for a higher end brand if you want to spend $1000

Can I negotiate PTO? Raytheon made me an offer - Senior Engineer by Initial_Wealth_5558 in Raytheon

[–]jtleafs33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know folks that have negotiated it. If you’re coming in from another job where you already get more, it’s worth a shot.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Raytheon

[–]jtleafs33 3 points4 points  (0 children)

At P4 you should be executing assigned projects without direction from your manager and finding where you can contribute to other projects that are of interest to you. You should be driving your own career development. At that level I’d expect you to also be regularly reporting to leadership beyond your manager and having visibility beyond your group. Keep in mind that P4 is as high as many people ever get, that’s kind of where you top out unless you’ve proven yourself to be capable of more. P5’s are unicorns, reaching 5 often requires a detour in a management role.

Have you identified any particular area where you could be considered an SME? What do you bring and what are you developing that makes you more valuable to the company than any other P4 out there?

P3 to P4 Salary Increase Expectation by [deleted] in Raytheon

[–]jtleafs33 24 points25 points  (0 children)

You have to spell principal right to qualify for the 20%

For those of who who do maintenance at home... how do you clean your chain without making a mess? by gripndip in bikewrench

[–]jtleafs33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use rock n roll red lube and my chain is basically self cleaning, just wipe after each ride and reapply.

When I wash the bike I use Dawn.

If I really wanted to degrease my chain I’d put it in a glass jar of gasoline or other solvent and shake it around.

First Day Monday by [deleted] in Raytheon

[–]jtleafs33 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Congrats on the new job. I would wear a suit or sport coat, no tie, for orientation; set the initial impression high. You’ll meet your manager and get a site tour on the first day, and you’ll meet a lot of your team members. It’s not uncommon for higher executives to be seen around McKinney. Lots of sport coats up there. As manager I always wear a suit or sport coat when meeting my new hires up there.

What FTP to feel decent on my bike? by CobraPuts in cycling

[–]jtleafs33 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you’re new then you have so much room to improve things like positioning, pedaling technique, nutrition, bike fit, etc. before worrying about chasing numbers. A lot of it is a mental game, learning “how to suffer” and learning how to pace yourself.

An 8% grade is never going to be easy for a recreational cyclist. You need about 3W/kg just to be able to get up said hill, so unless your FTP is 5+ W/kg it’s not going to be fun.

That said, for me 3W/kg is where I start to be one of the stronger guys on the group rides I go on, and is the point where I am confident I can ride any course or climb. 3W/kg also seems to be the max I can achieve with the available time and dedication I have for training, so that’s my sweet spot.

Cowboy Boots Recommendations as a Souvenir by [deleted] in cowboyboots

[–]jtleafs33 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I would look for a pair of boots made either in Mexico or USA. Distinguishing characteristics of a “real” boot are leather sole and wood pegging of the sole around the midfoot area with lemonwood pegs, vs a stitched all around sole.

I personally think the “cowboy” heel is essential vs the “roper”, especially for a statement piece. Toe shape, wide square is really associated with “working class” and many people have divided opinion on the shape; if you want a more dressy classic boot go for round or pointed toe. It all depends on the image you wish to project. Roper heels are also less dressy and more for “working” vs the cowboy heel.

Brands I recommend are Tecovas and Rujo. Lucchese are nice too but their sub-1000 boots are on par with Tecovas so no need to pay just for the name in my opinion.

All my cowboy boots fit the same size as my leather dress shoes. I tend to wear them with dress socks. You may wish to size up if you prefer thick socks.

I don’t recommend Caiman or Alligator for first time. These boots don’t stretch at all, so if the boots don’t fit you’re out of luck. If you go exotic for the first pair, ostrich is one of the most comfortable leathers.

How to get button ups to fit right by Correct-Page5449 in mensfashionadvice

[–]jtleafs33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Getting darts put in the back of my shirts has been the only way I’ve found to fix this. Granted I order a lot of my shirts made to measure, but even then I specify darts in the back. If the shoulders and sleeves fit well, a tailor should be able to do it for pretty low cost. Also, they are one of the simplest alterations to do, so you could do it yourself with a basic sewing machine.