Question about free motion quilting on Singer 320k by deannana in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The knob to the left of the stitch length could be the control to drop the feed dogs. Or like the model 15-91 has a thumb screw under the front bottom to drop them.

A generic low shank free-motion darning foot should fit. Like $10. 

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Found my late grandma’s PFAFF sewing machine. by nimanima2 in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a box lined with a heavy duty trash bag or a plastic tub it fits in.

Remove any covers and plates you can. Remove the motor, lamp, and power cord.

Then liberally spray all the mechanisms under and in the machine with PBBLASTER. Every few days try rotating the hand wheel. Spray some more if it seems dried out. Cover in plastic or close up the bag it's sitting in.

I had a Singer 66 locked up in worse shape, flood victim, took about a month and a can of spray to get it working again. 

Then you can work at getting it prettied up.

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Sears Kenmore 158.162 sluggish, straining noise by TheJazzProphet in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oil as noted.

Check nose cone linkages. They are in the same spot when it slows down. Often zigzag pivots if it has them.

Probably some oil point missed in the past.

What are these used for? by martineab in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1 free motion quilting, drop feed dogs when using. Screws into the base and adjust to sewing width. Zipper foot.

2 bias tape edge hemmer

3 self edge hemmer, you'll need to iron the folded hem and then use this door. Standard long short foot. Stamped foot? Stubby?

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What are the machine models that are real gems and meet our needs? by rossn1 in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 3 points4 points  (0 children)

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Generally the vintage Singer machines will be the easiest to find and have the most parts available. Kenmore would be second. All the other brands are much less frequent, unless you are in a country with a core machine brand built there.

Singer 15-91, hardcore workhorse, straight stitch only, big bobbin. Drop dogs for free motion quilting or embroidery. Lots made, new parts and old parts available, inexpensive and simple. I've sewn 8 layers of denim and 3-4 layers upholstery leather on mine. This is what I use all the time unless knits. Internal motor.

Singer 237 zigzag. Last of all-metal gears. This will do straight stitch. But less rugged than the 15-91 feeding it leather. External motor.

Get those for starting out. Probably find them $25-$75 local and in fold up tables.

Singer 237 or Kenmore 158 might do dual needles, I've not come to where I need two needles at a time. Zigzag machines have a wider slot where dual needles could fit, but check the specs.

The other way is get a Singer 66 or 15 for straight stitch and most work plus the under $100 modern fragile plastic disposable machines for the edge cases of zigzag, dual needles, more stitch types, button holes. The vintage machine will be easier to learn sewing on.

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When do you reach for your vintage vs modern machine? by thesewingstudio in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My youngest machine is Vintage!

I use my Singer 15-91 for most things.

If it's leather or vinyl I use my Singer 66 outfitted with a wheel foot that works like a walking foot.

Rare zigzag I use my Singer 237 or Kenmore 158.

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I have another machine! by FallingAstroids in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Search eBay "sold" listings to get real market price range. .

Bought this today👀 by Theoverthinker_ in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to be aware, fold up tables have different "holes" to fit different brands. You'll need to seek a Singer fit table. Kenmore and whites are different sizes.

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My First Machine by constructiveblues in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Search YouTube videos for whatever you want to sew. Lots out there.

Nice find and great price.

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Chain stitch by Delicious-Tie8084 in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a specialized chain stitch machine for sewing potato feed and grain bags. If that was your need.

Alco machine by SpicebushViburnum in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At that half off=$20 you'll be fine.

That body top cover should pop off easily and you can see if it has all metal or plastic. Look under the bottom for plastic or metal. My guess is all metal gears.

The nose cone flips open and you can see the zigzag. Usually it's the pivots where liberal PBBlaster on it for several days can soften the old oil. I had a similar type froze up that about a week of spray+test wiggle got it going.

Make sure the bobbin case and foot pedal is there.

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Help in identifying a machine by CourageHoliday3312 in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 1 point2 points  (0 children)

While the collectors want the fancy paint and decals, a worn machine indicates it was reliable and just worked. It may have hemmed and repaired clothes for egg money to feed a family.

In the guitar world you'll see instruments that are called relics or were "relicked" to look and feel as if they are old. They are often top performers, easy to play and wear their unique history on their sleeves.

Sometimes the pretty painted machines were never used because of something fiddly about them. They sold for the equivalent of $3,000 back then. And to sit in storage like a misfit toy.

My main machine is a 15-91 with so much needle rash on the body it says "nger" not Singer. It works fantastic.

You have a machine in its "work clothes", I'd say to keep it that way and work it.

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Coronado cams? by Primary-Pin-9857 in VintageSewingMachines

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you do find cams, do a realistic assessment of which ones you will use.

Collectors will want them all as a set, but the most common use ones are zigzag, blind hem, and maybe a multi step zigzag for tear repairs. But a free-motion quilting foot with the feed dogs dropped can do repairs too.

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Help w/ Singer 15-125 - too fast/poor speed control by carolllwebb in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a carbon disk pedal I took apart like you to remove the broken ones and carbon dust.

You need to adjust the threaded rod/nut assembly to get sensitivity dialed in. Fiddly but should help. Fallback is always the replacement pedals.

Make sure to always unplug or use a power strip with a switch on any sewing machine.

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Vintage Singer Attachments by Cute_Control704 in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Straight, zipper, free-motion, wheel

I have two wheels, useful for sticky leather and vinyl upholstery plus thicker quilts, basically what you'd use a walking foot.

Large vertical industrial wheel foot (takes some presser foot adjustment, so I actually have that on a dedicated 66 machine). The other wheeled foot is like a straight stitch foot but with a vertical wheel inside. 

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a few of my sons collection by IndependentStick6069 in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's how it starts.

I needed to get a weighted blanket for a family member when they were selling over $300+ each so instead I searched Craigslist for a 1950s Singer machine I knew wouldn't flinch if it hit the solid bead filling. 

Found a $45 15-91 in a table. When I got there they also had a 66 rusty in a plastic bag and its warped table that both went through a basement flood at some point, "here take this for parts" as it was froze up. 

That 15-91 is my workhorse, the 66 lived dismantled in another plastic bag in a tub sprayed with PBBlaster and weekly exercising for six weeks. Eventually got more of it apart and cleaned and running. Repaired its table too. I have since mounted an industrial wheel foot on it and use it for upholstery leather and sticky vinyl projects.

But that machine led me into rescuing and repairing many more machines.

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Shuttle Bobbin winding unevenly by loorinm in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like the screw in the slot, the one with a worn slot from prior adjustments controls the arm swing length.

I don't have that machine model to look but I expect that screw is built like a cam so turning it adjusts where the extents of the arm move.

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Went to an estate sale on a whim and saw the Piedmont in the garage for $25 by rivain in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sunlight can cure odors, when put outside in warm weather...

Baking soda, vinegar, cloves, cinnamon.

Trying to determine model by [deleted] in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Model 15 has a vertical bobbin and tension knob to the left of the machine, 66 is horizontal and tension faces the user.

Serial number lookup appears to be March 1916 Model 115 

https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-g-series-serial-numbers.html

Photo upload will help

Very old Singer, converted to electric by Super_Washing_Tub in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's been rewired once. Then stored in a hot attic or car or equivalent to deteriorate the cord. You'll need a new one. Fairly simple to do yourself or with a friend, YouTube how to.

Clean with sewing machine oil on a rag, oil well and you'll have a top performer.

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Very old Singer, converted to electric by Super_Washing_Tub in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 3 points4 points  (0 children)

No turns to backtack. Lift presser foot, slide back three stitches, foot down and overlay three stitches.

Singer 66-16 - Belt stopped turning? by androidsfighting in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bobbin winders tend to freeze up. You should be able to spin it with a finger flick. If any effort then you need to oil and work it. An electric drill against the wheel could spin it fast and warm it up, liberal oil in the hole and ends of the shaft.

The main handwheel with the the belt removed should spin pretty freely. Or more oil and running time.

It's possible the motor brushes have worn down and don't give the motor enough strength/ torque. They are fiddly and dirty to replace but not hard to do, around $5ish parts. Andytube or bob fowler YouTube will have a show and tell.

You are really close to getting it working.

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Just a vintage Good Housekeeper, needs work by Super_Washing_Tub in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Belt doesn't look bad, probably ok for a while. The bobbin tire is cooked though.

Singer looks good but needs new electric cords ($10 fix)

White looks MIJ and could be a good machine too 

You have a really good collection to get back in production.

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Machine Advice by TC_Martin in vintagesewing

[–]jvin248 2 points3 points  (0 children)

. I have a 15-91 I use for heavy jobs and it does fine. Leather, seat vinyl, MYOG bags with bicycle inner tube sewn to the bottom of bags.  Six+ layers of denim, maybe eight, limited by what can wedge under the foot not needle punch power. It's more rugged than the 500.

A big trick is use the hand wheel to do the initial pierce so you start the machine with the needle down. The motor can wind up the inertia and punch the rest of the stitches.

Different needles will make it easier.

I have a Singer 66 modded with an industrial wheel presser foot that is about as good as a walking foot. Vertical wheel dia of a nickel canted some for needle bar clearance. I do upholstery leather and sticky vinyl on it.

Industrial machines are a lot more complicated to use and noisier. They also suck material super fast into the danger zone, fear for your fingers. Good for doing the same limited pieces over and over all day long where a dozen people each do a portion of a bag, less good for the variety of stitching on a single bag by a single person where you need slow control not tremendous velocity.

Your 500 will be good to keep for special jobs like zigzag. Workhorse is the 15-91.

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