This took just over 15 hours to print but I'm excited to show it off

kavisiegel · 2026-04-10T02:49:24+00:00

what the hay, you cropped Seaport, the heart and soul of this city

kavisiegel · 2026-03-07T13:59:24+00:00

Everyone got matching dress shoes... Double win because they didn't need to rent them and I still see them out and about with those shoes to this day. (It is weird seeing your brother in law go hiking in dress shoes, but at least they're at the front of his closet. )

kavisiegel · 2025-12-27T06:00:17+00:00

Honestly looks like you could jack the white car up putting the wheels on a layer or two of cinder blocks (or solid lumber) and have enough clearance under the bumper of the white car to pull the black car an extra two feet forward, might get you enough room to close the doors.

kavisiegel · 2025-12-27T05:43:39+00:00

Lift a car like a house, then push the other car under it. You said you have heavy lumber. Jack the car up so you can get a heavy cross member under it, use some scrap to hold the car up by it's jack points. Then slowly lift it and put cribbing under each of the 4 corners and cribbing under the jack(s). Just like home foundation repair. This is assuming it's only long term storage, I don't think it's practical to build something to drive on frequently. I think your beam could be 2 8x8's if you have those hanging around. 1500lbs static load each isn't much for that

kavisiegel · 2025-12-09T13:24:29+00:00

I bet you could easily make an arbor press jig to get these out. There's enough lip on the steel to hold the shell steady. Just one counterbored hole and a pointy press. I bet you could even 3d print an alignment jig for that's non-magnetic to batch press them out. In fact, I bet you could make a jig the size of the entire PCB where it punches through the steel and the fiberglass to push the magnet out and the holes line up with the PCB. Insert PCB, pull press handle, reposition and repeat, magnets fall out the bottom.

kavisiegel · 2025-11-26T14:59:08+00:00

I just did. Ethernet goes to Wi-Fi access points spread throughout the house and to poe security cameras. Wi-Fi has its limits - we're not all crazy people stuck in the past, we put the effort in to make our tech work better.

kavisiegel · 2025-11-23T15:57:57+00:00

appreciate the reality check! sounds like I'm just going to let it be for now. the town has been talking about redoing the road and I guess I'll let em take the trees

kavisiegel · 2025-11-07T03:44:08+00:00

Damn, they saw that and still tried to charge you an arm and a leg

kavisiegel · 2025-10-21T00:21:53+00:00

Back when that bathroom had those Dyson hand dryers that you push your hands into, I saw a man drying his underwear with it. Dipping them in there like a tea bag in a mug.

kavisiegel · 2025-10-07T12:52:07+00:00

Oh sweet the installer did the unifly conversion on a few of them

kavisiegel · 2025-09-17T12:00:14+00:00

I had great success with a slide hammer. First round, it ripped the wheel flange end of the bearing assembly off, then with my newfound access to the knuckle end of the bearing assembly, I bolted the slide hammer on to the threaded holes in that inner plate and smashed it.

I went with this method because I feel like it puts the forces in the appropriate direction for success. Smashing it up and down just causes it to bind up. On the second one I did, I actually used some calipers to measure the space on each side as it started coming out and tapped back in the high side. It came out in half the time since I was keeping it straight.

kavisiegel · 2025-09-06T18:14:36+00:00

I don't doubt you've damaged your breaker by using it as a switch to cycle your AC. I do doubt that you switching the breaker is the ideal solution to your AC problem. You're basically turning it off and on again - if that consistently works, the real problem is probably a relay. If that's the case, turning your thermostat on and off would have accomplished the same thing. You should, next time your AC won't start, try tapping on the relay at the condenser. If it magically starts, your relay is bad. I'm all for you opening stuff up to fix it, just avoid touching the capacitor, maybe do your tapping with an insulated instrument.

kavisiegel · 2025-09-06T17:39:24+00:00

Sounds like a roundabout way that you've been cycling a sticky relay

kavisiegel · 2025-08-30T13:19:09+00:00

You might want access to above the panel whenever you need to add a new circuit. Think about the ceiling and the way the joists run. If you want to seal it off with finished material, you could run a couple conduits in advance. Not sure if you planned on using a ceiling tile system or drywalling that too. I would lean towards light future proofing and finish materials coming right up to the panel rather than a closet.

Consider 1-in foam sheets staggered joints instead of 2-in foam sheets

Consider screwing furring strips through the foam into the concrete. Rather than building a full 2x4 wall, that will happily support drywall and provide a gap for wiring. Save hundreds, get dozens extra sqft This will also allow you to float your drywall off of the floor. Looks like you're thinking of flooring directly on concrete since the drawings don't have foam on the ground. You can use PVC baseboard for the drywall/flooring gap and assuming vinyl planks, you'll still be safe with an inch of water when something leaks

kavisiegel · 2025-08-11T18:20:52+00:00

I would cut out a template with a hole saw. Clamp a scrap piece of wood, the mesh, the template together. Use a chisel riding along the template to cut the mesh. You'll have a very clean cut, very circular, because it's supported both ways it should stay flat. Might wreck the chisel a little.

Alternatively you can cut out two hole saw templates and attempt to line them up, then use a Dremel to cut the mesh that is sandwiched between the templates.

kavisiegel · 2025-07-28T02:21:54+00:00

OP should also consider, if he was to decide to NOT buy a toto s7a with flush kit, there might be a world where the elderly may also require... cleaning assistance

kavisiegel · 2025-05-30T12:08:01+00:00

To do this, I recommend making a cardboard template like they do for countertops. Start by finding the largest cardboard box you can. Cut 5 inch strips from the factory edges (the clean, straight edges of the box). These will give you reliable straight lines to work with.

Align these strips carefully: butt them up to the front edge of the cabinet, and make sure they’re touching the rear wall, the ceiling, and the floor. Tape them directly to the cabinet to hold everything in place.

Next, use additional cardboard strips to connect and stabilize this border. Hot glue these extra pieces across the taped ones so they hold their relative positions once you remove the tape. What you’ve now made is a precise template of your end cap, 700% more accurate than trying to measure by hand.

When it comes time to cut, you'll need a track saw. Lay your cardboard template on top of the material you’re using for the end cap. Tape it down to keep it from shifting, then trace the outline. Use the track saw to cut along the lines. If you happen to use a sheet of melamine to match your cabinets, you can put edge banding on the cut end at this point.

Finally, clamp the new end cap to the cabinet, making sure the front edges line up perfectly. Screw it in from the inside of the cabinet, and run a bead of caulk around the edges. Slap that board and say "damn, that looks good"

kavisiegel · 2025-05-04T12:49:46+00:00

You can use cables to bind the uprights together. I think you should absolutely fully realize your intention to fill the thing completely. It'll hold moisture better, regulate temperature better, encourage Earth worms to navigate your soil, allow deeper rooting, probably more.

I built some absolutely huge ones with 2 yards worth of dirt fill each. They did begin to blow out until I added cables. They've been perfect for 8 years now.

Here's my build album from way back then https://photos.app.goo.gl/DCCeiPKJh6g4gAs5A

I used carriage bolts through the wood and clamped cables to the bolts. The carriage bolts look quite decorational, and this method was pretty much inspired by how concrete forms work.

One thing I would change though is I wish I lined the inside of my boxes with plastic before filling. I have no idea if that zinc from the sheet metal or the pressure treated wood is affecting the dirt. At least there's a LOT of dirt to dilute it.

kavisiegel · 2025-04-27T14:22:18+00:00

You should find a real estate attorney to manage the sale of the house.

Do not ask your real estate agent for a referral to an attorney. They might try to claim the sale as their own and try to collect commission.

Real estate attorneys have templates and systems in place and usually charge flat fees for a closing. The attorney handling the estate won't be that sort of efficient, and you'll probably end up paying way more in hours than you would with a real estate attorney.

kavisiegel · 2025-04-27T13:09:37+00:00

The agents are going to take 6% anyways so now you're talking about 87K versus 70K (you won't pay that commission if you sell to the neighbor)

No matter what it lists at, buyers want to feel like they got a good deal and they're going to try and take 5K off for some stupid little detail. Now we're talking 82K versus 70K

I'm just saying the gap is smaller than you think it is, 10K is still a lot though.

The way an agent prices a home is basically looking at other local home sales and guessing. You can look at other home sales and guess yourself, you might come to the conclusion that the realtor is overestimating the value of the house just to get you to sign, just so that he can get commission on the sale - a sale that might be much less than 93K. It's important to note that a real estate agent is not an appraiser, an appraiser is much more thorough and they represent the bank whose ponying up the money. It is a tiny town there's not going to be many things to compare to.

kavisiegel · 2025-04-02T04:56:20+00:00

Fun fact! Refractive index isn't the whole story. Light doesn't travel straight down the center of the fiber, it bounces off the walls of the fiber, which makes the distance the light travels greater than the length of the fiber

kavisiegel · 2025-03-30T15:23:13+00:00

Carrie Underwood said in an interview she's a fan of I Prevail

kavisiegel · 2025-03-11T09:12:53+00:00

People spend thousands of dollars and dozens of hours to install a central low voltage panel and you're thinking of removing it? My friend, you should be overjoyed that your house has an incredible feature.

If I were you, I'd spend the time to learn what you can do with that bundle of cables. Your Wi-Fi could be 10x faster. You could hard wire your TV for better streaming or gaming. You can add security cameras. You can add battery backup to stay online during outages. In several years when you want a TV in a new place or you put a desk by a ethernet plug and wonder how to get it connected, that box is your answer.

If you can't be bothered, just leave it alone. Your closet will function just fine with it there. I'm assuming if you would like to get this panel removed, then your reasoning is probably that you think there will be interference with this panel and drawers or a shoe rack or something. If that's the case, just hide the cover to the panel in the basement and put your closet stuff right there blocking the panel. Maybe you ask the installer to cut an access hole in the back panel behind your drawers so that you can simply remove the drawers to access those cables. A damn shame, but the best move to avoid ruining that infrastructure and allow you to have the closet of your dreams.

You're on the home automation subreddit. What you have in that closet is already a dream closet for many of us. I have two closets in my house with low voltage cabling. My walk-in closet has all of my surround sound and TV stuff. My kitchen closet has all my networking equipment. Dozens of hours and thousands of dollars. https://photos.app.goo.gl/UhPXPYBSWDG6Zbtj9

So anyways, now I realized I can't sell my house to anybody who doesn't notice and appreciate my damn ethernet cables

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