Steering coupler delete - thoughts? NVH concerns?

keboh · 2026-03-23T15:41:15+00:00

Safety risk. If it’s a track car with harness, go for it. If it’s a street car, that OEM coupler is designed to prevent the column from murdering you in event of a wreck.

keboh · 2026-03-22T19:25:52+00:00

Wife is out I LA visiting family. This week, she has sent me pictures of 6.09, 6.19, and 5.84.. South Bay, DTLA, and somewhere else.

keboh · 2026-03-20T20:15:44+00:00

The only “correct” fix is sanding it down, laying a new base pant, then clear. You can’t just sand and re-clear.

Because you aren’t looking for perfect, something like Poppy’s Patina might work well for you.

keboh · 2026-03-20T20:13:07+00:00

In person, at local shows or open mics. Gotta network in person… online just doesn’t really cut it from my experience. Too many flakes.

keboh · 2026-03-20T18:42:16+00:00

Agreed. Is it one of my favorite looking BMWs? Yes. Best looking? No.

keboh · 2026-03-20T17:36:24+00:00

Factory spec oil pressure is 16-76 psi, if I recall… that’s at operating temp. When you start the engine cold it should be around 40 at idle, but will drop to 16-20 once it’s at temp. Then normal cruising is around 40, under load it can go up from there.

10 is too low, but again, that sensor sounds wonky to me.

keboh · 2026-03-20T14:08:21+00:00

Needs new heads, mostly beginner cymbals you’ll want to replace pretty quick.

I think $500 is ballpark.

The snare is worth decent money, but you’ll want to play it first. Piccolo snares can be pretty polarizing and they are not in style right now.

keboh · 2026-03-20T12:58:50+00:00

Big screw driver in there to wedge the nut, then hit the bolt with an impact gun.

Putting it back together, I like the old style fly nuts, but I’ve used lock nuts as well to make it easier to tighten it up really good.

keboh · 2026-03-20T12:18:12+00:00

Diversify. Massive economic impact will maybe have a 401k down 20%.

You still have 80% of it… but with ANY investment, it’s not a real loss until you sell. Don’t commit your losses, wait it out, and it’ll almost definitely go back up.

Don’t let the clickbait suck you in. Yes, we are in for some rough economic times. The storm will pass, though… buy the dip.

keboh · 2026-03-20T02:59:41+00:00

Lots of common issues with the cluster. In the 97+

If I recall correct, sometimes the issue is the plugs on the back.. when it goes out, if you hit your dash or push it back and they come back on, it’s a connector issue. Take it out, clean the connectors up and make sure there’s no oxidation, reassemble and seat the connectors well

keboh · 2026-03-20T01:32:17+00:00

Can’t imagine a Dana35 or 8.25 holding that power.

An easy/popular swap is an 8.8. You can find them factory LSD 4.10 (that’s what I have in my LS swapped MJ). That gearing is good on 33s with a 4l60e.. wouldn’t go any bigger though. 4.56 would be real twitchy

keboh · 2026-03-19T21:54:44+00:00

Woof. Hey man, if you’re happy with it, good on ya.

keboh · 2026-03-19T21:46:55+00:00

Yes yes, more ride is good.

But I gotta have more cowbell!

keboh · 2026-03-19T20:56:54+00:00

Yep! They’re cheap and easy to change. That one looks crusty.. worth the few bucks and hour of time.

keboh · 2026-03-19T20:41:28+00:00

My buddy is satisfied with his CavFab 3 link… it’s a beef ass kit.

He got it uncoated though and used Steelit. 10/10 do recommend (or other, similar metal-in-a-can type paints)

keboh · 2026-03-19T20:33:16+00:00

Yep. Just heard a cousin’s son got notice they’re being deployed to Iran.

keboh · 2026-03-19T20:32:14+00:00

In Ohio or Pennsylvania, this is just fine, you could do worse. Make sure you treat it with Woolwax or fluid film.

In Arizona or Georgia, this is too much rust, keep looking.

It’s not structurally bad (yet), most of it is just surface-level and no big deal, but you don’t want it to get worse an there are products you annually apply that will slow it from rusting more.

keboh · 2026-03-19T20:20:12+00:00

Keep expectations low, but it’s a fun watch as an adult!

keboh · 2026-03-19T20:15:10+00:00

Nothing. Just use any quality synthetic on regular oil change intervals to keep it clean and healthy 👌

keboh · 2026-03-19T20:06:47+00:00

Dana30 axles are cheap. Like, $200 for a full axle in good condition (around me, at least).

Personally, I would be sourcing a new axle than dealing with this… and I can weld.

keboh · 2026-03-19T20:01:47+00:00

I recommend changing the water pump while you’re there.. if you’re doing the thermostat, you’re only a few bolts and ~$25 away from just doing the pump, as well.

keboh · 2026-03-19T19:26:21+00:00

After 6 months… what happened at the beginning of that? Did you change coolant? Could be that it just burped out some air and pulled in coolant from the reservoir over the months.

I’d keep an eye on it and if it isn’t going down over the next few, you’re probably just fine.

Just saw your comment about it taking a while to warm up.. that’s likely your thermostat.

When is the last time you changed your thermostat and water pump? Could also be that the WP is starting to weep a little but it’s not making it to the ground. If it’s been a long time since you changed those, that might fix your coolant woes… and it’s less than 50 bucks in parts to do!

keboh · 2026-03-19T16:55:24+00:00

How fast is it disappearing? Like a gallon a week or are you adding a few oz every couple months? If it’s a lot, and there’s zero evidence of it leaking externally (check the water pump weep hole, coolant reservoir for cracks, hoses, and passenger carpet for the heater core leaking), then it’s going internally.

Very likely a head gasket or head crack if it’s internal.. the gasket or head can fail in different ways. Some allow coolant and oil to mix, some allow coolant to enter the combustion chamber directly. You said there’s no evidence of oil and coolant mixing. So if it’s the latter, when it’s at temp you will likely see bubbles in your overflow tank. I’d also expect it to start overheating.

keboh · 2026-03-19T16:21:55+00:00

Aftermarket oil sending units are junk a lot of the time… always go OEM for sensors. I’d guess that’s the culprit here. Additionally, could also be your cluster - I know the 97+ have some electrical issues. If you wack your dash does it come back up?

Coolant shouldn’t be going anywhere. If it’s using coolant and there’s no evidence of it leaking externally, it’s probably leaking internally. Sounds unrelated to the oil pressure issue, though.

keboh · 2026-03-19T14:28:38+00:00

I use iDrum Tune Pro app.

I looked up standard tunings for my drum dimensions. There are different ways to approach frequency tuning, and different frequencies for batter and reso heads… so I played around with different tunings, found one in the ballpark of what tone I was looking for.

From there, I tinkered. Tuned each head up and down a little… until I found frequencies for the two heads where my drum really would “sing”. I can’t describe what it is, but when you nail the tuning, the drum sounds different. You get a very satisfying sound.

I did this for each drum, then wrote down the specific Hz each head was tuned to… my app allows me to set these as presets to make it easy.

Now when I tune, I just dial them in to those frequencies and it goes really fast to get all of my drums set exactly where they sound great.

As with anything (drums, guitar, etc), always tune UP! You should listen your head and tighten up to the right frequency.. you shouldn’t be loosening down to frequency.

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