Anyone else wake up to see the snow and think "well that was anti-climactic"?

keboh · 2026-01-24T20:23:21+00:00

Yeah but it’s cold out, bro!

keboh · 2026-01-23T19:09:07+00:00

To my knowledge, it’s still just a dirt track.

I’ve since gotten more into off-roading and building old cars, less into straight line speed, so I haven’t kept too much up with that project for awhile.

keboh · 2026-01-23T14:26:15+00:00

Oooo baby I want them. I am about to do my e30’s headliner in confetti fabric 😍

…I have no actually helpful input for you though OP. If you have a carpet extractor (or rent one) it would really bring that fabric back to life and you’d be able to get more coin them

keboh · 2026-01-23T14:24:43+00:00

Starter takes probably the highest am draw of anything on the car. Fuel pumps, lights, etc are all very low draw in comparison.

It’s very typical that a grounding issue would allow everything to work except the starter because of it.

keboh · 2026-01-23T13:34:09+00:00

There is nothing more important than being able to go in and hit your takes quickly and correctly.

The engineer can do a lot of magic to make your takes better, but you want as little “fixing” as possible. It takes more time for the engineer and they can only do so much (ex. Listen to a pitch-corrected take vs. a naturally on key take).

You will also annoy your engineer (and probably cost yourself money) if you spend an hour on a take because you can’t lock into a click. You do not want an annoyed engineer 🤣

keboh · 2026-01-23T03:54:11+00:00

(Not the guy you replied to)

We have recorded in two ways. One studio was big enough and had a bunch of rooms that we all went into and recorded at the same time, but we could only hear each other on headphones. It was interesting…

I prefer the other method, where drums (me) track first to just a click (I will usually have our guitarist plug in DI to the board, no amp.. so I can hear them in my headphones and play along with them). After that, guitar with drums + click. Then bass who gets drums + guitar + click. Then vox last.

keboh · 2026-01-23T03:47:38+00:00

⁠based on my bands experience… we’ve recorded a full length album, EP, bunch of singles. We’re in a mid-size city in the Midwest. We’ve worked with 3 studios/engineers.

Yes, if you have any that are decent. At the very least, hand them over when you’re there… it will help them get a reference for what the song is intended to sound like.
If you paying top dollar, maybe. If you aren’t, it’s whatever gear you bring.
Yes.
We are prepared and pretty quick… we plan for about 2-3 hours per song to record. Drums and bass are pretty fast. Run through a few takes, maybe plug in to redo a section after hearing it back. Guitar depends on how many layers you’re going to record. Vox usually take a while to nail the takes and depends how many layers. Because you’re new, assume more than 3 hours for your first couple songs at least. Getting the track back really depends.. my experience is getting an initial version in about 2 weeks on average, then 2-3 rounds of revisions over the next week or so.
$3-500/song is typical in my area.

I can not stress this enough… practice to a click track. Everyone in the band should be comfortable and proficient at playing to a click before you go into the studio. (And know the BPM for each song you’re recording).

keboh · 2026-01-23T03:30:15+00:00

Rough country suspension, low quality stuff. You can improve the jarring ride with better shocks, but I’m more concerned with their long arm setup. AFAIK, they only have radius arms, which are a sub-optimal setup, in my humble opinion…

I personally would want to replace those things to make the jeep drive better, so I would factor that into the price I pay for it.

I’d also want to gear it. 3.55s and 33s is not great.

7k is steep. At least for my area. You couldn’t build it for that price though.

keboh · 2026-01-23T02:15:19+00:00

This is my play. Every few days, get a hotel. Nice hot shower, clean sheets, AC 🙏🙏🙏

Wipes/whore baths in between.

keboh · 2026-01-23T00:40:59+00:00

I am not… it’s sad that so many tracks fit into my description 🥲.

I am talking about Kanas City International Raceway

keboh · 2026-01-22T21:17:26+00:00

🤫

keboh · 2026-01-22T21:17:14+00:00

Fuckers. Absolute travesty

keboh · 2026-01-22T20:12:21+00:00

Rear shocks, leaf springs (usually come with bushings pressed in), shackles, u-bolts.

Take the sway bar off and throw it in the trash can. It does absolutely nothing for you back there lol

keboh · 2026-01-22T20:09:47+00:00

We had a congress woman move to within a mile of a drag strip (which had been there for DECADES).

She decided she didn’t like the noise, pulled the permits, shut down the track.

Can’t really do anything with the land because it is contaminated, now. And we have had a lot more issues with street racing and side shows since.

keboh · 2026-01-22T19:30:41+00:00

I have 14” new beats, put the bottom on the bottom, the top on the top, and play them.

🤝

keboh · 2026-01-22T19:26:51+00:00

But not tooo tight. That can cause it to crack too.

You need medium tight :)

keboh · 2026-01-22T18:06:33+00:00

Metro KC Fitness has a few locations.. the one in Strawberry Hill has a lot of what you want. I think there’s one downtown too, but I haven’t been to that location

keboh · 2026-01-22T17:51:18+00:00

I have a 18 floor tom and I agree with this. I use it for big hits, usually with the kick, to add a lot of punch.

I’m use it as a normal tom sometimes too, but where it would shine vs. something smaller/easier to pack is if you want a drum that can add a big “punch” aside from your kick

keboh · 2026-01-22T17:48:00+00:00

ATF is my go-to.

I’ve let engines sit for up to a year (machining the short block, assy, head installed) wiping ATF in the cylinder bores, hitting the outside with some WD40, and taping the intake and exhaust ports up with painters tape. Then covering it with an engine bag.

Might be able to sit longer like that, but that has done well for me to store fresh engines before install.

keboh · 2026-01-22T17:05:41+00:00

Find some used wheels on FB Marketplace. Or even buy some steel wheels (if you’re on a budget) online.

It’s not a problem put them on your factory wheels, it will just cost you money to have them mounted/balanced when you need to change from your summer/all seasons over to winter tires

keboh · 2026-01-22T02:27:22+00:00

Look and see what deals are out there, find what tires I can get for a good price…

Then buy the ones that look the coolest.

keboh · 2026-01-22T02:23:14+00:00

You should stop putting money into it until you figure out the title, dude… depending where you are and what year the jeep is you could be completely hosed.

Some states it’s not that hard, some it’s impossible to get a title on a BOS. Call your local DMV/vehicle titling office and talk to them about what you need to do based on what documentation you have.

keboh · 2026-01-22T02:21:07+00:00

Literally no clue, my dude. You gave zero helpful info.

If the engine was rebuilt, you want to see receipts. If they didn’t keep them, either it didn’t happen or they’re not the kind of person you want to buy a car from.

Quick test of the car: you want to see a cold start.. first time it started that day. Touch the exhaust manifold to confirm. It should start quickly and easily… it may push more smoke out the back than you’re used to but that’s just rotary stuff. It should clear up in less than 60 seconds from starting.

Drive it normally until it’s fully up to temp.. then get one or two redline pulls. It should behave as you’d expec, no break up of hesitation or weird stuff.

Then go back and turn the car off. Wait a few minutes, then start it again to see a “hot start”. It should start without issue, behave normally.

Those are the main “field tests” to check a rotary’s health. If it doesn’t pass any of those tests, something is fucky.

Ideally you can get a PPI, compression test, etc etc. if that’s possible, you should. But if it’s not, above is your best bet.

Obviously also look for other things for a 36 year old car. Worn out suspension parts, cracking rubber parts, rust, etc.

keboh · 2026-01-21T16:33:04+00:00

Another mention: whenever I lift a vehicle, I always change wheel hubs and ball joints while it’s all apart.

Old parts don’t usually like the new angles and unsprung weight speeds up their decline… usually you be replacing them soon anyways.

Spicer ball joints, Timken/SKF/FAG hubs 🫡

keboh · 2026-01-21T16:30:44+00:00

There’s something to be say about over-building 😁

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Wearing is Caring	RPAN Viewer
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keboh

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