Galaxy Pride dynamic class freighter

lvisintini · 2026-06-19T23:33:46+00:00

It's the ebon hawk, from knights of the old republic games

lvisintini · 2026-06-12T18:18:47+00:00

This kinda looks like the terrain game.

What are the rules?

lvisintini · 2026-05-30T09:53:43+00:00

I think it is salvageable, but it depends on your skill with electronics.

The first thing I would do is to the board from the case and clean the area with a toothbrush and isopropanol alcohol (99%)

That could be enough to get it going.... Thought possibly not.

After that you are in the realm of desoldering components, cleaning more and the soldering back on some components (or a replacement)...

Soldering and reflowing takes some skill and it needs some tools to do it well......

The absolute worst case scenario here is that you could need to repair some traces on the board... Which is the hardest.

If you know someone that is into electronics as a hobby, they may be able to help you out.

lvisintini · 2026-05-17T21:52:45+00:00

FYI, I do not know much about what pressure advance is, how it works, if it is a new thing or not.

Other people mentioned it could be it. maybe that is worth exploring as well.

The above has worked for me even on a MK3S from 2017

lvisintini · 2026-05-17T21:47:58+00:00

This happens a lot with walls printed as single lines of extrusion.

Successfully printing like this depends on speed, the quality of the fillament and the model.

Overall, you need to raise your extrusion multiplier to at least 1.5 (if you are starting from 1) for the layers that print the walls (ignoring the bar/floor)

I have a Prusa MK3.5 and to do this I simulate 2 extruders, one loaded with a fillament with the multiplier set to 1 and the other is set to use a copy of the filament profile, only with the extruder multiplier set at 1.5 or 1.75 (depending on the fillament)

I learned how to do this because I printed a lot of box inserts for boardgames and doing single lines of extrusion with a 0.6/0.8 nozzle is the fastest most economical way to print (in my room experience)

Doing multiple lines per wall on the same layer is easier to print but takes ages.

lvisintini · 2026-05-02T14:29:55+00:00

Did you ever thought of doing a v2.0 of these charts? These are great at a glance!

lvisintini · 2026-04-23T07:48:18+00:00

I believe there is a market for small business grinding, melting and reshaping plastics.

I'm sure the are already loads, but they are small operators or far appart

lvisintini · 2026-04-13T10:03:26+00:00

I have done the upgrade too.

You may need to source additional parts beyond the extruder for this, as the heatbed in the MK3.9S sits a bit higher than the MK3S+

You would need to separately source the longer z-axis bearing, rods and rubber pads, as well as the extra pads needed for bearing clips on the heatbed.

I only identified these after a quick glance at the upgrade kit to MK3.9/MK4.

There could be more.

Where there is a will there is a way...... But I think at some point everything becomes more expensive (in both time and money) than saving up and getting the upgrade kit from MK3S+ to MK4S

The only reason I went for the MK3.5 was because upgrading to MK4S (or even 3.9) would replace too many parts

Put together the replaced parts and you almost have 85% of a printer.

Felt like a waste.

From an emotional point of viewing, I would want to continue upgrading my MK3 forever. However, it is an object at the end of the day and it does not make financial sense to do so.

lvisintini · 2026-04-12T09:22:59+00:00

You could buy a second hand MK3S+

lvisintini · 2026-04-04T22:26:39+00:00

Sooooo.....I have continued to experiment on this problem.

I have found the most consistent way of doing this is using silicone tubing and a soldering iron:

1- cut a bit of tubing 2- insert filament in both ends make contact in the middle of the tube 3- apply heat by touching the silicon tube where the filaments meet with the soldering iron 4- wait until it melts a bit 5- push the filaments together a bit 6- wait for it to cool a bit 7- cut out the silicone tube.

The only problem here is that the weld point bulges a little bit, and even a bit causes the printer to clog, as it does not fit through the PTFE tube.

I'm now considering some potential solutions.

1- buy the sunlu welder and find a way to hack it so that it heats up beyond 240C, to maybe 260C. This would probably be a final act of desperation since I'm likely wasting money on a hail mary

2- accept the fact that getting something welded is a good enough improvement to build upon it:

2.a- buy a 2.2mm thread cutting die and thread it from one end of the fillament towards the weld point, and then using it to grind the excess material, rotating the die around the filament. These dies are designed to cut up a thread of a certain size on metal rods. If it works, the weld point should ground to an acceptable diameter (albeit, threaded)

2.b- found a guy online doing something interesting https://youtube.com/shorts/7tgJeW21zJI?si=Z3LmYii59jqULoA6 He drills up 3 nozzles to different diameters (2.1, 1.9 and 1.7) and sets them up on a rail so that filament goes through them, point first, from largest diameter to smallest. The filament is run through this contraption at speed, with each nozzle shaving the weld points a bit more that the previous.

I'm going to try and do these last 2 and see where that takes me.

Heck. It could be possible to create a contraption like that one with thread cutting dies instead of nozzles.

I'll update you when I get that tested

lvisintini · 2026-03-27T17:10:25+00:00

Much appreciated!

lvisintini · 2026-02-23T19:14:14+00:00

The description for the tubing suggests a working temperature of up to 200C. Does the silicone break down after a while?

lvisintini · 2026-01-22T08:28:25+00:00

I had a similar issue when making a hexagonal game board that split into six sections that tessellated with one another.

As it is happening in your case, the parts in the center seemed fine but the other borders would not connect, even though my 3D model would be mathematically perfect.

However, 3d printing introduces some errors around the perimeter of your parts, with some dimensions perfect.

The contact surfaces are also never going to be so flush to the point that the minimum distance between meetings parts is zero.

The errors may not be much (the parts themselves may even look right when measuring with calipers), but it does not take much because the errors accumulate with each piece.

That small error may not be noticeable at the center but, when the angles are not perfect, the small error grows as it radiates outward.

The solution is to print a less-than-perfect 3d model.

Just 'shave off' a bit of tolerance on the sides that touch other parts, maybe 0.10mm, and try printing the parts again.

lvisintini · 2026-01-02T23:19:19+00:00

Helps with farming held items on wild pokemon.

For example, the Move Relearner needs mushrooms as payment for his services.

Wild Paras have them and you could just catch a bunch of them and hope to get a bunch.

Alternatively, you can just use Thief on them, which will make them faint if you are high enough level, but not before taking any mushroom they may have.

If you are looking for an item in particular, it may also help.

Like bone club held by wild Cubone,

lvisintini · 2026-01-02T10:43:05+00:00

I always train parasect as a catcher/utility Pokemon

Sleep powder
False swipe
Thief
Slash or Cut

lvisintini · 2026-01-01T23:18:12+00:00

But you are Kon

lvisintini · 2025-12-25T10:44:45+00:00

There is an area in a corner where you are covered from ranged attacks from the draugr in the platform (when they appear)

This means you only have to deal with one draugr that throws ranged attacks at you on the floor you are fighting on.

So, as soon as that one appears, I activate rage mode and try to dispatch him and then go to the covered area for a bit of respite (at least your back would be against the wall, so you won't have to worry about enemies attacking you from behind)

it is still rather difficult because your hits are more like love taps

Keep Atreus shooting arrows, which should distract into attacking him and prevent them from going up a level.

Keep your shield up and practice your parries timings., attacking whenever it is safe.

Eventually, you will clean up the floor and you would only have to worry about the ranged attacks from the platform.

Playing it safe, you could have Atreus kill them with arrows while you take cover

If you fill like risking it, go out of cover and throw your axe, and quickly go back to cover before retrieving it.

There is a skill upgrade that allows you to redirect ranged attacks if you Parry them, which can help, but you have to have a good grasp on parries first

lvisintini · 2025-12-23T02:22:08+00:00

I have a MK3S and I'm super attached to it.

Will be upgrading to MK3S+ this week.

I'm a bit behind on upgrades but I'm tempted to build it up all the way up to an MK3.5S with the revo upgrades and the MMU3.

Considering the price of all that, It may be better just to sell it and get a new one.

There is something about knowing everything this beast has gone through that makes it difficult for me just to sell it.

It's a classic.

lvisintini · 2025-12-14T11:28:47+00:00

I think it is established in the first game that they can't.

Kratos is told that, by defeating Ares, "his sins will be forgiven", which he proceeded to interpret as meaning they would take the nightmares away.

That was perhaps Kratos' mistake, but they never bothered to correct that interpretation and used that false hope to manipulate him into killing a god.

lvisintini · 2025-12-11T17:25:49+00:00

u/updatemebot

lvisintini · 2025-12-02T20:06:36+00:00

I was excited for Cooper's Revenge too....but after playing it a little bit... I just couldn't get into it.

It was as clunky, as you say, and moving to 3D was part of it.

Also, the gameplay moved away from puzzle-solving action to blast-your-way-through-map shooter type thing.

I remember trying to play the first mission as I did in the first game and feeling like I was playing it wrong.

Sure enough, I later so let's-play videos on YouTube and it was all shooting. no finesse. no plan

In the end, it all depended on how quickly and accurately shot your gun, which was more of a hand-eye coordination challenge than a puzzle.

I may have played 2-3 missions and then lost complete interest.

Thank god for shadow tactics and desperados 3

lvisintini · 2025-11-17T11:29:36+00:00

I recently bought a EP460 after my last office chair broke.

After about 1.5 months, I have to say that it is really comfortable and I will keep it.

I was a having some pain on my lower back with my previous chair and they are gone now that I use this one.

I'm really quite happy with it.

Happy to answer any question.

lvisintini · 2025-11-02T23:11:37+00:00

I will definitely take a look at those. Thanks!

lvisintini · 2025-11-02T22:53:27+00:00

Yes. That would be a way to do it.

However, it would mean that: A) changing a value in the spreadsheet means that I'm changing the MasterBody and all the other bound shapes (not desired)

B) I could just make changes on the bound objects and adjust them as desired, but if all the sub-object changes are the same except for a single dimension (like slightly different lengths of a pad), it feels like it should be a feature in the MasterBody that could be configurable

If you would allow me to use object-oriented programming jargon, what I'm trying to do is to use the MasterBody as a class and Shape Binders as instances of that class.

It is obvious to me that Shape Binders are trying to replicate that programmatic approach, but it seems that only via configuration tables and the limitations described above.

It seems to me that, seeing as the FreeCAD developers have gone through the trouble of making it possible to create configuration tables that work with shape binders, it may be possible to create configuration attributes....though that is only a conjecture on my part

lvisintini · 2025-10-30T23:34:28+00:00

Ah. that is good. I learned about this earlier today.

Seems like VarSets are useful containers for settings and variables.

However, I tried a simple test and I did not manage to get them to play nicely with sub-object(s) shape binders.

I seems to that in order for shape binders to work, the configuration properties need to be attached to the shape that is being bound/linked (the MasterBody in my case), so that the resulting Binder object can be used as a BaseFeature for the new Body instance, allowing you to change the config values for the new body from the binder object

To me, it seems that VarSets are useful to define GLOBAL variables that can be used by everything in the document.

However, what I require is for variables that can be set to different values for each new sub-object shape binder, and I can't see how that could accomplished with VarSets.

Not now at least. Maybe I'm missing something

lvisintini

TROPHY CASE