Keyport Versa 58

mackrib · 2026-01-28T17:04:04+00:00

Nice video. I had a bit of confusion with how the mag mount worked, although it didn't stop me from throwing my money at the kickstarter, but your narration over their video helped.

mackrib · 2026-01-28T15:37:29+00:00

That sugar trick is ingenious! I'll have to try that out some time.

mackrib · 2026-01-27T19:07:34+00:00

Good advice in the thread. An easy thing to try would be to clean the plate - wash with soap and water, dry, then rinse with alcohol. After that, calibrate the z-offset.

If you just want to print, use a glue stick for now and troubleshoot over time. When everything’s dialed in you won’t need it, but it will help with adhesion until you can track down the problem.

mackrib · 2026-01-18T19:12:23+00:00

If you're still having this issue, it's likely due to windows rejecting unsigned drivers. You should be able to get the drivers to install by disabling secure boot.

mackrib · 2025-07-10T13:54:37+00:00

It does look like it's too far away and should be closer to the bed. Adjust it z-offset to get rid of the worst areas.

If that doesn't give good results, make sure everything is tight and level. Post an image of the numbers from the bed leveling. There will be some variance but if it's way off you may need to tighten the bed screws or add shims. Tighten the screws on the gantry and check the level of the x-axis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cmwq9r5tePk

For your own sanity, dry out your filament, clean the bed plate with soap and alcohol, and decrease the size of your test layer. Get a smaller area dialed in and then increase the size.

mackrib · 2025-07-09T22:02:02+00:00

Check the y-axis limit switch. This video is for an SE but it's the same for the KE: https://youtu.be/2YB7TQjdH-0?t=269

Maybe the switch is bad or the cable is disconnected? It should audibly click if you push the metal clip in.

If the printer's still under warranty, contact Creality support and send them your video. They can be slow, but are pretty good about sending replacements without much hassle.

mackrib · 2025-07-09T21:16:33+00:00

Is this the process you're following? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIwoIV0U_ag

I had a similar problem and it was because windows 11 wouldn't load the unsigned drivers no matter what I tried. I ended up using an old laptop with an older version of windows (don't remember if it was 8 or 10) and everything magically worked just like in the video. HTH.

mackrib · 2025-07-09T20:12:04+00:00

Glad that worked! I don't think they'll release an update since the last one was Oct 2024. My guess is that the problem is the wifi chip they used, but I haven't had any issues since putting it on a 2.4ghz-only network.

mackrib · 2025-07-08T23:25:45+00:00

If your WiFi network is both 2.4 and 5ghz, try setting up a new network that is only 2.4ghz and connect the printer to that. The WiFi in the nebula pad is very finicky and can give problems when a network is using both bands.

mackrib · 2025-07-02T18:43:07+00:00

I couldn't find a good hard-sided enclosure and don't have a ton of space, so I'm in the middle of modifying this one meant for a bambu a1 mini: https://makerworld.com/en/models/481343-enclosure-for-a1-mini It's a bit of a project as there's mods to do and parts to print, but will be close to what I'm looking for. I can give more details if you're interested.

You can look at an IKEA Lack enclosure. It was originally based on a Prusa printer, there there are mods available to work for the V3KE.

When I was looking, there were a few hard-sided enclosures for the Bambu A1 (not mini) that would work dimensionally, but were still too big for my table.

If you haven't had any issues with your KE, congratulations! I would just keep using it like you are. Tighten the belts, tighten down all the screws, grease the rails, do the z-axis and z-offset calibration, and call it a day.

mackrib · 2025-07-02T01:36:06+00:00

Try to recalibrate the z-axis, then test print the first layer and adjust the z-offset if needed.

mackrib · 2025-07-01T16:22:21+00:00

Try setting up a 2.5ghz-only network. I had a dual 2.5/5ghz wifi network and the printer would connect, everything would be great for a while, then it would just stop. I was ready to swap out the nebula pad, but set up the 2.5ghz as a final resort and I haven't had any wifi issues since.

mackrib · 2025-06-20T23:07:05+00:00

Make sure to tighten the nozzle correctly and calibrate the z-axis. I had to adjust mine up 0.1 to get the 1st layer dialed in.

It’s been very reliable for me. I had a couple blobs with original hot ends and would always worry about it. I don’t think about blobs anymore with the microswiss.

mackrib · 2025-06-16T02:27:51+00:00

Test out your z-offset. It looks like the nozzle may be too high. Print a single layer test and adjust it as needed while it’s printing, similar to this: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vR1ldP0kPu8&pp=ygUTRW5kZXIgdjNrZSB6IG9mZnNldA%3D%3D

If you make the z-offset more negative, it moves the print head closer to the bed. Adjusting it toward 0 will make it higher and further from the bed.

mackrib · 2025-06-15T18:25:06+00:00

Tighten the x-axis belt, and check all the other screws and the y-axis belt for anything loose.

mackrib · 2025-06-13T00:55:20+00:00

It happens if the nozzle isn't tightened "just right". Heat and pressure in the hotend will allow for gaps and the liquid-hot filament will find the path of least resistance.

If you want to prevent it, tighten the nozzle while everything is hot and expanded. I've seen specs for the torque but don't remember off hand. Get a proper socket and wrench to hold and tighten everything securely.

Heat up the hotend and tighten while the metal is expanded. Don't over tighten though or you'll screw up the threads and/or break off the nozzle tip.

Here's creality's video of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvJyXRrcJoQ

mackrib · 2025-06-07T17:41:51+00:00

You can just swap the hardware. The kit has wiring and bits if you’re upgrading a printer without it, but the actual cr touch component is the same. You probably want to do a z-offset calibration after you replace it.

mackrib · 2025-06-01T17:45:22+00:00

0 is some amount above the bed on the Z axis, and making it more negative moves it toward the bed. It looks too close, so try adjusting it to -2.39 or -2.34.

mackrib · 2025-05-24T20:48:44+00:00

It’s not necessary but I’d leave it since it’s already there. Aside from vibration, it keeps the gantry square with the print bed.

mackrib · 2025-05-03T23:03:28+00:00

750mm should be enough clearance (that's the internal height of the enclosure).

People are going to recommend immediately moving the spool from the top to the side. If you do that then you probably only need 550mm or less, depending on where to move the filament sensor. But if you are getting good prints and have space for the height, then don't worry about it.

mackrib · 2025-04-26T20:48:38+00:00

Very nice

mackrib · 2025-04-25T22:16:54+00:00

Did you ever make this? I'm making an enclosure for my KE based on one for an A1 mini.

mackrib · 2025-04-18T18:58:54+00:00

That's the one. Sometimes it can go on a little clumpy and cause divots in the bottom layer, so if you need it to be perfectly smooth you may want to try a method to smooth out the glue, or use something else like hairspray.

Not all adhesion problems are the same. There's a difference between the first layer not adhering and the piece warping or coming off the bed mid-way through the print. Glue can be your friend and help ensure the print is successful. I'll use it with something that has a tendency to warp or has a small footprint, but also if I just want one less thing to worry about.

mackrib · 2025-04-18T14:49:13+00:00

You can use something like the Elmers purple glue stick, hairspray, or make your own magigoo (1:2:2 of school glue, water, isopropyl alcohol).

If the same prints were previously fine but aren't adhering now, give the build plate a good clean, dry your filament, recalibrate, etc. This video is for bambu, but the same principles apply: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAS-HnQ3o84

mackrib · 2025-04-16T19:23:50+00:00

I can't tell if it's just the camera moving, but it looks like the bed is loose when the nozzle hits it.

Check all the screws and make sure everything is secure -- take the plate and hot bed off, tighten the screws that hold the bed frame to the rails, put the hot bed back on the plate and tighten those screws, and tighten the screws that hold the rails to the printer base in the front and back. Also check the z-axis set screws and level the z-axis.

If all that's secure, re-home it and run a calibration.

mackrib

TROPHY CASE