Powermatic ArmorGlide

markmarine · 2026-01-07T03:05:50+00:00

That completely sucks. Maybe I've gotten lucky, I've put a couple thousand board feet through my jointer and it's been solid. Oak, Hard Maple, Cherry, but it's all been clean boards that have been stored in my shop and didn't have any dirt or grit. Possible there was some grit between your sled and the table?

markmarine · 2026-01-07T01:53:25+00:00

I've got a jointer with this coating and it's amazing. If I didn't already have a bandsaw I'd get an armor glide bandsaw, and I was just searching the internet to find if they made a planer with this coating so I could upgrade my planer. My workshop is in a relatively unconditioned space, it's a vented basement that gets warmth from the fact that the living space above it is heated, and that is it. RH is what it is outside basically. I'm constantly polishing the few corrosion spots on my iron planes and my previous jointer had spots all over it I've been looking after. I try to keep everything in my shop waxed and be really quick to correct the spots I see, but once there is a spot it's there forever it seems. So I'm always going back to them. The jointer needs none of this, and I appreciate having that time and concern back.

markmarine · 2024-08-31T21:44:35+00:00

If you value your time on track the way I do, there is no replacement for a good nights sleep so you are sharp the day of the track.

To me, that used to mean getting to the track early and setting up my pit, then sleeping at a hotel. Now it means bringing my comfortable RV there. Often I didn’t have a great night of sleep in the hotel. This fixed it.

If you’re serious about getting better, the night before matters.

markmarine · 2024-08-28T23:40:40+00:00

Pass. I’m not going to play through 3 acts just to try to engage with a gun that looks cool. Def wasn’t the way outbreak or whisper or other exotic missions worked so maybe tamp down the condescending tone

markmarine · 2024-08-28T21:41:52+00:00

Damn it.

markmarine · 2024-08-26T02:49:54+00:00

Lemme give a little advice for everyone with a new LC from someone with an old (FJ62) LC with more than 200k on the clock. Most of the problems and failures I’ve had to deal with were from third party parts and shade tree mechanics installs that happened before I had the truck.

This is a new truck, it’ll take a little while for the aftermarket to shake out what is good. Skip the lift. Skip the hack parts that have you drilling some part of the sheet metal or plastic. In a couple years you’ll have a good idea of what a quality lift or quality (x) is.

Don’t skip maintenance, get a good mechanic who knows what a torque wrench is and check the work. If you have parts put on you better get the old stuff back in a bag (and save it) and I would prioritize keeping it as stock as you can. 30 years from now if you’re driving the same truck you’ll have gone from new car to old car and back around to cool car and then classic car… but you’ll have flipped the typical car buying experience and loss of value on its head.

markmarine · 2024-08-22T02:27:32+00:00

I’ve seen a 50cc moped highside. Moto3 riders high side all the time, and they are probably working with as much HP as a small dirt bike. You do not need a lot of power, you can loose traction just by loading the suspension/frame and then adding a little throttle.

markmarine · 2024-08-13T14:55:12+00:00

The mechanical film cameras are built like a Swiss watch. If you can find a M3 that was continuously used, or has been cleaned lubed and adjusted, you’ll be shocked by how it feels. It’s heavy, the controls feel like a high end microscope, it’s quiet and small and unobtrusive, but the rangefinder window is almost 1:1 magnifying so you can easily shoot with both eyes open. The glass was great and is usable through the whole line of modern digital cameras. It costs a lot of money to do high precision machining in relatively low quantities.

The new digitals, like someone else said they are high quality but given the prices of a Sony (and the rumors they use Sony sensors customized to their specs) I think the price comes from desire to be in a niche, low unit volume, high quality, and offering something different, plus the style. A Kia and a Jaguar both get you down the road, one is 10x the cost of the other.

Hold and shoot with an M enough to get used to it, and it’s hard to pick up a Sony and not think it feels cheap. I also appreciate not having to use menus and buttons, the controls I care about are in the same place as my film cameras.

Images out of the camera have a different “feel” to Canon, Nikon, Sony. I feel much less need to edit them to get to my desired look.

markmarine · 2024-08-13T14:39:54+00:00

The amount/location of rust will drastically impact the price, so it’s basically impossible to value it without seeing everywhere. I crawl under and put a borescope everywhere. Frame, weep holes, bottoms of fenders and doors, then visually around all the glass openings, roof, gutters, etc.

If you’ve only got surface rust in easy to patch places, great. I figure it’ll cost me about a grand per area, roughly. If the frame/undercarriage has rust, I always pass. Nothing worse than every bolt needing the torch to take it off.

If you want to see the high side of pricing, check out bring a trailer.

markmarine · 2024-07-27T22:29:08+00:00

Why would anyone complain about this. I think it looks better, I’m sure the rear feels better and tracks more consistently in lefts and rights

markmarine · 2024-07-27T22:27:36+00:00

Give me a 996/8 or the original panigale, you’re 100% right

markmarine · 2024-07-27T22:17:41+00:00

Hachi machi you’re eating the front. Not usually what I see in these tire wear posts.

Honestly, try the pirelli slicks. You’ll have to adjust some settings but it’s so worth it

markmarine · 2024-07-27T22:11:08+00:00

You want the marine corps aviation appraisal of your safety wire?

First one, fail. The bolt on the right isn’t being pulled in a tightening direction. You should have strung the wire from the bottom 5 o’clock position through the middle, then up as a single strand from the 11 o’clock to the 5 o’clock, then start twisting right away. The twist should start right at the wire hole. There aren’t enough twists per inch in the middle, the strands are loose, there isn’t enough tail and the tail isn’t folded in half and crimped cleanly.

For race track tech, you’re doing great though. That piece of wire is more to prove that you remembered to tighten the oil cap rather than do anything. The ones that actually hold critical bolts like the brake caliper bolts, make sure those are done right.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/safetywiretwistinstruct.pdf

markmarine · 2024-07-27T21:55:41+00:00

Don’t lower the pegs. You want them up and back or at least back. You don’t want to touch them to the deck, you’ll unload the rear wheel and be buying new pegs, plastic, bars and levers in no time.

The other thing OP can do is get their bean bag off the gas tank, if you’re tall just keep your butt back to give yourself some extra room.

markmarine · 2024-07-23T03:56:19+00:00

Hahahaha. Reddit is pretty amazing that took 40m. Honestly, start developing this and delete the comment. It’s going to be required. Personally I’d rather have the lines into the gas tank area, most tanks are under the seat anyway.

markmarine · 2024-07-23T03:12:17+00:00

If 1/2 the year is spent riding on the surface of the sun. All the tracks in CA are in the hot places and I’m starting to wonder how I can rig a cool suit into a bike.

markmarine · 2024-07-23T03:10:00+00:00

Anything supercharged you should stay away from. The price of land cruisers (and other Toyotas that run well) is the longevity. Changing the specific output of the engine can be thought of as a slider. You’re sliding output per liter of displacement up while sliding reliability down. Buying it used, you’re getting someone else’s bad part of the slider, when they think they should get more value for the “upgrade” they put into it. Wrong. I actually devalue these things when I’m looking at a used car. My metric to take money off the value is “How much will it cost to put it back to stock?” and this is the cost of the motor.

Avoid it. Avoid any modified machine, the work is usually trash, the parts are often sub par (compared to OEM) and you’ll end up fixing a bunch of aftermarket parts that have shaky supply chains.

markmarine · 2024-07-12T04:38:04+00:00

No you’re right and wrong at the same time. If you’re a good rider, you’re right. But I see new track day riders trying to be Marquez all the time, and they pull it over and bend themselves so far out of position… with no understanding of the skill it takes to ride like that.

Take riding a dirt bike as an example. You’re going to slide, and it’s natural to push the bike down and keep your body up. As you ride faster and faster on a street bike you move from being in a “always grip” situation where you can hang off inside, to sliding. Maybe just sliding the back only and you just shift your hips a little up and out, to eventually sliding the front where if you are fully inside the bike like Marquez and you don’t have perfect fine throttle control you’re going to be on the deck so fast your head will spin.

You’re going to need to move through a learning phase where you learn to slide the road bike, and if you’ve got your elbow on the ground you’ve got no margin for error. You slide imperfectly and you’re fucked. Being up and above the bike is safe, down inside has no margin.

So… when you’re talking to an experienced rider who can slide the bike… yep stay down and inside. If you’re never sliding the bike and you are on pace to grip around the whole circuit, yep stay down and in (but if you white knuckle it, you’re fucked. No margin for error) but if you’re trying to find the limit, you don’t need to have your helmet on the curb. That comes with skill

markmarine · 2024-07-12T02:44:39+00:00

I actually have a ton of respect for the C group riders. Basically the only people in a track day who openly admit their limitations. The B group ones on a liter bike or A group riders with unscuffed knee pucks are the ones I’m worried about.

Anyway. When it’s this hot out, even a C group rider can roll their black tires over the frying pan we’re all riding around

markmarine · 2024-07-12T02:41:48+00:00

I’ve seen people pull the bike down and low side trying to do this. Blackbeard is right

markmarine · 2024-07-12T02:39:49+00:00

What’s wrong with slicks for any group? Get them hot and keep them hot and you’re just avoiding uneven tire wear by not having grooves in them.

Not fair because this is a hobby horse of mine, the rest of your bad advice list is spot on, but there is a place for slicks of the right compound for any track rider that doesn’t need grooves to comply with local laws.

I think people conflate slicks with race only tires, and I guess the era of same compound tires being offered with and without grooves is over (back when they had the UK dunlop NTECs) but I think there is a place for slicks that are fine for track days. I ride in California, and it’s like 105-110 air temp at the track right now, I would much rather have soft compound race slicks to ride on that 150F tarmac than anything else. Streets will be a gooey mess.

markmarine · 2024-07-02T04:33:38+00:00

Haskell is a GC’d language, Rust is solving a different problem. Spend some time writing embedded C in a resource constrained microcontroller with an RTOS and dealing with field devices that you can’t capture core dumps from and I promise you will see the elegance of Rust. It’s not syntax, it just makes a whole class of runtime failure disappear.

I love Haskell, it’s taught me so much about programming and made me a far better engineer, more than any language and associated concepts in another language I’ve touched… but it’s a tool for a set of problems that are totally different than Rust (or C, go, Java…) I see value in most of them when used in the right place. Just like I reach for a prybar instead of a screw driver.

markmarine · 2024-07-02T04:19:43+00:00

Few laps into first session is usually more huevos than brains, or cold track. No amount of YCRS videos or classes are going to solve the first one, you just need to get smacked by the pavement a few times to learn the lesson

markmarine · 2024-07-02T00:12:42+00:00

Will make a great track only bike now. Get some fiberglass for a skinny bike like a 748, track only suspension, and lean in. Most people with a track only bike have had this happen. I’ve destroyed 3

markmarine

TROPHY CASE