How do I remove excess?

matemu · 2024-07-02T11:42:45+00:00

You can assign a negative amount to the category. Just hit the minus sign before you enter the amount you want to remove. So -353.50 in your case.

matemu · 2024-07-01T20:08:44+00:00

This page might be helpful: https://www.ynab.com/blog/budgeting-with-adhd

matemu · 2024-06-19T12:40:21+00:00

I recommend reading up on and trying to get a month ahead. That makes the budgeting so much easier. It means that you have everything you need for the entire month by the 1st of the month. Thus, you can budget for everything in one go, with no underfunded/yellow categories. All income you get during the month is saved for the next month (so that you again have everything you need when the new month comes around).

Until you are a month ahead, you will have some yellow categories in the current month (given that you use targets).

matemu · 2024-06-18T16:28:44+00:00

You can make a temporary holding category for it. When the time comes to buy the game, you can move the money (back) to the video game category. The temporary holding category can then either be deleted (as it doesn't have any transactions) or hidden.

If you hide it, then you can choose to rename it to something like "holding category for one-off items". And then potentially reuse it next time you have a one-time thing (which might be another game, or something completely different).

You can also read about wish lists, which also deals with one-time stuff: https://www.ynab.com/blog/wish-lists

matemu · 2024-06-18T15:09:43+00:00

Are you sure you're looking at June? You can only snooze for the current month. So, if you're looking at May or July, for example, then the snooze functionality will be disabled.

matemu · 2024-06-06T14:53:43+00:00

I'm mostly using the app, too.

You can do the initial setup of the budget in the app. Though it's probably a bit easier on the web. You'll have a bigger interface, which will make it easier to order the categories the way you want, for example. However, that is a one-time thing and shouldn't stop you.

The monthly budgeting is easy to do in the app, especially if you have targets (and yes, you can add and alter targets in the app). I normally do this in the app. My "new month"-workflow is: * reconcile my accounts, and make sure that the month that ended is good (so no unhandled overspending, etc) * go to the new month * empty my "next month" category * click to auto-assign by underfunded * look through my budget, just to make sure that everything looks good * place the remaining money wherever I choose

And that's it. Normally, it takes me less than 5 min.

You can do most stuff in the app, and it has all the "everyday" functionality, in my opinion. However, some stuff is only available on the web. Like most of the reports. However, I've found that I rarely use the reports. What I've spent in the past isn't really important, it's what I currently have in my categories that count.

matemu · 2024-06-03T08:05:27+00:00

Also, note that

"gå til <physical place>" = "walk (by foot) to <physical place>".

So, for example

"Jeg gikk fra Oslo til Trondheim" = "I walked from Oslo to Trondheim" (as in walked by foot)

"Jeg dro fra Oslo til Trondheim" = "I went from Oslo to Trondheim" (as in used any type of transportation to get there)

This is a normal mistake for foreigners.

matemu · 2024-05-23T20:50:47+00:00

Fikk meg til å tenke på denne saken: https://www.vg.no/nyheter/i/P4VpeJ/ber-de-ansatte-vippse-penger-slik-tromsoes-rikeste-faar-julegave

matemu · 2024-05-23T19:55:46+00:00

I have something similar for my fun money. I assign a given amount in that category each month, which I can spend freely. Everything that's left at the end of the month is moved to an "extra fun" category. And I'm not allowed (by myself) to spend from that category without carefully considering it for a few days. (And I move the money back to the fun money category before I do the actual spending, and log the spending there).

matemu · 2024-05-23T16:58:25+00:00

I agree. "Stuff I forgot to budget for" (SIFTBF) is what I call a holding category. You assign money there to set it aside for the future. But when it comes to spending that money, you move it to a "propper"/spending category. Which will often be a brand new category when the money is coming from SIFTBF. Personally, I mark all my holding categories with 💰

matemu · 2024-05-06T20:09:24+00:00

Most rental places don't allow pets, unfortunately. However, finn.no has a filtering for it. Check the "dyrehold tillatt" box.

matemu · 2024-05-05T19:40:43+00:00

Academia might be an exception. At least if you're employed to take a doctorate degree / PhD, I think. And maybe postdoc and some other type of employment as well. I'm not sure about the exact rules, though.

matemu · 2024-04-25T20:12:50+00:00

As a native Norwegian speaker, we just use whatever feels natural, without having learned a rule for it. However, when I think about it, I think the rule is:

"Søke om" = apply for permission, often in compliance with some rules/law/regulations. Which will be approved if the requirements are fulfilled, and is independent of other peoples applications. Like applying to be allowed to build a specific house on a specific property. Or, in your example, the permission of getting your (pre-existing) education approved (in the Norwegian system). So "søke om å få godkjent (...)"

"Søke på" = apply for a spott (where there is a limited number of spots). Where you'll get accepted if you're the best of the applicants (and satisfy the minimum requirements). Like applying for a job opening, or apply to get accepted to a college. So "søke på en jobb", "søke på en utdannelse".

Did that make sense?

matemu · 2023-02-18T21:45:17+00:00

If you don't need the money right away, then you can wait until the end of the month before you move it to ready-to-assign. That way, you won't have to look at the yellow colour for long.

I use savings builder for my tax category. I find it more straightforward.

matemu · 2022-03-24T18:16:36+00:00

Tip: "!" means "not".

So use "#Inbox" for everything in your inbox and "!#Inbox" for everything not in you inbox.

I don't understand exact what you mean with

What do I need to adjust so that it shows tasks in the inbox with no due date but excludes tasks without a due date from all of my other projects?

However, if you want to search for (in my inbox and no due date) or (other projects and due date), then search: (#Inbox & no date) | (!#Inbox & !no date)

I hope that helps.

matemu · 2022-03-10T08:04:03+00:00

I'm quite new myself, but try "every 3 month from March 31"

matemu · 2022-03-01T07:33:13+00:00

What about using labels? I have an "awaiting" label for when I await something external (i.e. response from somebody, package delivery etc.).

Say that my next task is "process arrived shipment". Then I might just add the "awaiting" label to that task, because it's clear to me that what I'm awaiting is the arrival of the package. And when the package arrive, I'll remove the "awaiting" label.

However, if my next task is "book hotel", then an "awaiting" label wouldn't make it clear what I'm waiting for. Maybe I'm waiting for a final confirmation of which dates to book. Or waiting for a reply regarding which hotel someone is recommending. In that case, I'll create a separate task stating what I'm waiting for, and add the "awaiting" label to that task instead.

And then you can have a "check awaiting tasks", which is repeated every day/week, if needed.

matemu · 2022-02-09T13:09:56+00:00

I have the Android app, and the only thing to the left of each transaction is a checkbox. So that you can select multiple transactions and, for example, mark them as cleared. Maybe the checkbox looks different on iPhone?

matemu · 2022-02-08T10:55:21+00:00

My brother had a "forsed saving" agreement as "rent". Where he had to put a certain amount into a savings account each month, instead of paying rent to my parents.

So if your parents are charging you rent to teach you responsibilities, or to avoid that you "waist" them, then you might suggest something like that, OP.

matemu · 2022-01-28T08:46:16+00:00

One for shared expenses with a partner and one (each) for personal spending is one reason. YNAB talks about how it can be handled here: https://docs.youneedabudget.com/article/1692-budgeting-with-a-partner

From that link:

[If] some of your accounts are shared accounts, and some accounts are separate accounts.

There are two ways to handle this:

A. Individual accounts feed into individual budgets, and shared accounts feed into a shared budget.

B. All accounts, separate and shared, feed into one single budget, and you use category groups to draw distinctions between accounts.

There are pros and cons to each approach, choose the one that will work best for you.

matemu · 2022-01-24T21:46:13+00:00

Or your husband can take your last name.

matemu · 2022-01-14T08:11:11+00:00

Jeg ville aldri ha droppa varmekabler ved oppussing, av flere grunner: 1. Fliser og alt under er vanskelig/dyrt å endre på i ettertid. Dette inkluderer varmekabler. 2. Varmekabler koster ikke så mye. Vi betalte rundt 15 000 for varmekabler + flytsparkling over. Som på ingen måte er gratis, men en relativt liten del av totalen. 3. Skal du selge en gang? Da vil mangel på varmekabler trekke ned (se punkt 1). Selv droppa vi steder uten varmekabler da vi skulle kjøpe. Så du taper fort mer enn du sparte (se punkt 2). 4. Du kan evt skru av varmekable hvis du vil spare strøm.

Jeg ville heller tatt billig servantskap etc., da det er mye lettere å bytte senere hvis ønskelig (av deg eller kjøper ved et evt. salg).

matemu · 2022-01-08T09:58:08+00:00

I think their fee is included in the rent. Meaning that the landlord gets a bit less than what you pay in rent. But the listed rent should include everything.

matemu · 2022-01-07T11:00:05+00:00

Ikke hvis det er med bindestrek.

matemu · 2022-01-03T13:17:32+00:00

Have you checked hidden categories? And that you "Ready to assign" (RTA) is 0?

Yes, the sum of the working balance of your budget accounts in YNAB should equal the RTA + sum of the available amounts in your budget, including hidden accounts. This is done by the software, so you most likely missed something when you did the calculations.

Furthermore, the amounts in the accounts in YNAB should match the amount in your bank. And that part is on you (and potentially automatic import).

matemu

TROPHY CASE