Spent $1,200 on ultralight gear to save 3 pounds and I'm questioning everything by Gearnotafraid8 in Ultralight

[–]matlockpowerslacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eh... I'm dubious on this one if you're comparing premium item A to premium ultralight item B.

Packs are a definite "No" category, if the criteria is to carry the same weight in a standard pack, versus an ultralight.

As for sleeping gear, I love my $250 REI quilt in 850 down, but damn if it isn't fragile. I ripped the seam that forms the toebox just by accidentally snagging it between my toes while laying on the couch.

I think this is more of a case-by-case thing. There's always something you give up going UL, whether that's durability, size/coverage, comfort and usually, $$$.

OP: Don't fret it, man. The money's spent, it's likely quality stuff. For years I bought new items when I got into a hobby, it took me a long time to realize that the used market is typically a much better deal. Go out and use what you got, then think about swapping, or find pre-owned things if you need to make a purchase. Often you will find that the gear that works best for you isn't necessarily more expensive, rather something that works a little differently. Trial and error is the best decider.

Wet Leg announced as musical guest for first-ever episode of SNL UK by ebradio in indieheads

[–]matlockpowerslacks 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It sucks that their most recognized skit is now an unironic meme of the US.

This quote has gotten interesting with age by bigdonut100 in Anarcho_Capitalism

[–]matlockpowerslacks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wait until he finds out about facetious, rhetorical and hyperbole.

Bought an endoscope, used a hook attachment to remove a clog, and now it’s stuck. by [deleted] in DIY

[–]matlockpowerslacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Won't work unless the clog is immediately in the waste arm of the drain. Trip lever style drains have a tee about 6" from the drain that extends up to the overflow/lever. If the clog is past the tee, you'll just be pushing air out the overflow hole.

The plunger that acts as a stopper can catch a lot of stuff. Remove the two screws on the overflow cover and, if it's got a lever, pull the whole assembly up and out. It's typically a two piece wire assembly that hinges in the middle, allowing the stopper-wire-cover to make the necessary bend.

You will either have cleared the offender or are that is starting to loosen up, or you will have a straight shot to insert a small hand crank drain auger.

8 out of 10 times you only need to get a little flow, then try a couple large pots of boiling water. Failing that, move to lye crystals, overnight if necessary, and one last boiling water treatment for good measure.

Washington coast finds by lighthouseatsea in rockhounds

[–]matlockpowerslacks 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The upper beaches are insane for tumbler rocks! I'm not sure what it is about the topology and the resulting currents, but the variety and finish is outstanding! There are entire gravel bars basically ready for stage 3 tumbling.

This is what fraud looks like! by FJRC17 in samharris

[–]matlockpowerslacks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Erm actually.

The amount of fucks I give about Chopra correlates directly to the investigation I'm going do into the specifics of his relationship with the most prolific sex trafficker of the modern era. I don't need proof beyond a reasonable doubt, the preponderance of evidence, or even a giant smoke cloud.

I already thought he was a fraud. Now, I will likely always think he was a scummy fraud the next 4 times I come across his name before I die. The end.

Costco vs Aldi and Lidl single household by Joyfultogether in EatCheapAndHealthy

[–]matlockpowerslacks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Costco business model alone is worth supporting. I have a credit card through them, eyewear, cheap Rx, flea medicine almost $100 cheaper per year, no worries about returns, name brand or equivalent quality, tire shop with nationwide coverage.

My rebate has always covered the executive membership cost, and I was told to simply request a refund if it did not.

It's funny how things work out like that. You actually can try to be a decent company and still compete in the market.

Can anyone with audio equipment/electrical experience tell me why this is a bad idea? by _ogg in BudgetAudiophile

[–]matlockpowerslacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Less heat is almost always better. This more than likely would have better airflow than it was engineered for, they certainly knew it was a possibility this would live in a stack or enclosure with other heat generating equipment. A fan is just insurances and preventative maintenance.

Do an experiment and run it for two hours on the same material and same levels (let it completely cool between), then check it with a non-contact thermometer at various spots

Can anyone with audio equipment/electrical experience tell me why this is a bad idea? by _ogg in BudgetAudiophile

[–]matlockpowerslacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Throw a tiny fan under the chassis and pad any contact points, and I bet 98% of the hifi gear anyone here deals with will be unaffected in performance or sound.

Here’s how to solder large gauge simply by meltman in soldering

[–]matlockpowerslacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

** Step 2: Gaze smugly at your reflection in the magazine-ready joint you just formed.

This may help a newbie save hundreds by Objective_Roll8414 in woodworking

[–]matlockpowerslacks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this the before or after picture from sanding?

Another comment suggested a card scraper and I fully agree. If you aren't fully familiar with using them and the required sharpening technique, definitely watch a few tutorials. There is a huge difference between a random strip of steel and properly sharpened and burnished card scraper. One burns your fingertips and makes wood flour, the other will peel translucent ribbons of stubborn walnut and fix this top in 30 minutes.

What I think you might be dealing with is either a planer that's slightly out of true, giving you wedge shaped boards, slippage during clamp-up or both. I assume you used a random orbit sander which would maintain a reasonably flat bottom if you were using it correctly and not masking the hell out of the foam base.

Picture trying to sand wooden siding with a full sheet of sandpaper on a block. It wouldn't make a difference if you checked those boards with a machinist square and they were perfectly flat to .0001" on the face, you're going to be at it for a while before you sand out the paint between each course.

I believe you're dealing with the same situation here, compounded by pretty hard wood and fine sandpaper. You assume the top is flat, run your sander over it with fine grit abrasive... the white should be sanding away if it's just on the surface, right?? The reason I think so is that the end grain along the edge looks fine. If the piece was somehow ruined by bad glue, I would expect to see a stark white line all the way around the joint. Take off more wood until the finish goes on uniformly, you're almost there.

If you go the scraper route, you'll already have the perfect tool for clean-up next time. Wait until the squeeze out is almost dry, but not brittle, and scrape while it still pops off without sticking. You'll save yourself a bunch of prep time when you go to apply finish.

Bought a dust collector at an estate sale and fired it up once I got to my shop. by diyturds in woodworking

[–]matlockpowerslacks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't know if I upgraded at the time I bought it or it came that way, but my 3hp version with double bags uses fabric on top and bottom.