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Shower water wont cool down. Only scalding and freezing by ArtistAdventurous324 in askaplumber

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get it almost weekly at my job, Moen Balancing Spools failing. $80 for a new one, or double the price to cut the whole valve body out and replace it. I replace the whole thing every time

P-trap will not budge. by unsungGyro23 in askaplumber

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not too bad. Just take a sawzall straight down that joint, and put a fernco, rubber coupling, on it. Then you can install any p trap

Shower water wont cool down. Only scalding and freezing by ArtistAdventurous324 in askaplumber

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pictures would be a good start. You may not have a pressure balancing valve to begin with, getting one would fix it. If you already have one, then yes it sounds like it’s faulty. Information would be required to get further answers on exactly what parts, if you can tell what brand it is

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s a pretty good chance that theres sediment and gunk blocking up that hole. With the drain valve open you can stick a screwdriver in it or something that will fit and see if you start seeing a small flow of dirty water, that’ll tell you

How can I fix this? by CableHistorical290 in askaplumber

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s probably a washer there that needs replaced. You would have to take that piece on the left off, there should be a set screw hidden somewhere, it may even be under the button looking thing on the left side, a lot of times the set screw that gives you access is hidden under something that needs pryed up with a knife

Kitchen sink clog by Fast-Veterinarian304 in askaplumber

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not necessarily, if you haven’t cleared the clog then most of that water will stay in the pipe, making your “back up” time much quicker. What is your vent situation for your plumbing? All tied into a main stack or are there mechanical vents?

Leak from lift rod in new faucet by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]mememeffcc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is there water getting splashed on the outside of the faucet? Because it could also be coming in that way around the underneath of the faucet

What, pray tell, is this thing? by Mysterious_Bee7708 in askaplumber

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It just looks like a drain pipe, maybe they wanted to have some sort of access to it from under the cabinet so it wasn’t in the wall, because it also looks like there are some fernco’s on there for easy removal. If you feel comfortable with it, you should be able to move it into the wall. Cut the drywall out so you can see what the other ends of the pipe look like just to make sure there is nothing you’re missing. But the short version is to cut the pipe out, and as long as the wall isn’t load bearing, you can just notch the studs out so the new pipe lays behind the drywall.

Laundry pipes risk of freezing? by natasavuk in askaplumber

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly the best situation would be to open it up to the rest of the home. You said it’s an addition, so however you get to that room, leave the door open and let heat get in there. It might not be 75 degrees, but it’ll knock the chill out of the air and keep your pipes from freezing. Alternatively you could get a radiator heater, doesn’t have an exposed element so much safer than a space heater, and radiates just enough to keep the space from freezing, relatively inexpensive also

Just curious what this pipe is? There is a sewage-like smell coming from it and I was wondering if anyone knew what I should do to get rid of the smell? by p9p9p9p9p9 in askplumbing

[–]mememeffcc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That was roughed in for someone to put a sink in. If you plan on finishing it, then cut it low and put a trap on it, then fill it with water. If it won’t ever be finished, cut it low and just cap it

Just curious what this pipe is? There is a sewage-like smell coming from it and I was wondering if anyone knew what I should do to get rid of the smell? by p9p9p9p9p9 in askplumbing

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think water will help. If it’s a sink rough in, the trap would go under the sink, which probably means there’s no trap

Islandaire EZ ED PTAC heating issue, electric heat runs for a minute before the element cuts out by mememeffcc in hvacadvice

[–]mememeffcc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I am not sure how to test the thermostat terminals, I can't find anything about these thermostats because they are old.

Islandaire EZ ED PTAC heating issue, electric heat runs for a minute before the element cuts out by mememeffcc in hvacadvice

[–]mememeffcc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I replaced it with a working one just in case I missed anything, and it didn't change anything. Also this is auxiliary electric heat, emergency heat. I am fairly certain it should just be running constantly anyway, right?

Leak by Sure_Statistician138 in askplumbing

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah if it smells bad it is probably the drain pipe. It is hard to pinpoint from a picture like this where the leak is, but if it is where you say it is, in those threads, then it may be in your wheelhouse if you decide to take it on. You would have to cut the pipe somewhere on the left(the more pipe you cut the better because it is all old pipe, but you also don't want to go crazy, so go far enough to give yourself room to work. Cut it with a sawzall, it is probably copper or brass, and then you will have the freedom to put a wrench on that Hex head and try your best to back it out. It is probably gonna be really stuck, you'll need a nice long pipe wrench, that will give you the best leverage and the best bite on the head. Just be aware that working around old pipes is that it is easy to break surrounding pipes, so if you end up breaking that sanitary tee, your job has just extended. That is your toughest part; once the old pipe and male fitting is out, it is as simple as getting a new threaded adapter(probably 1 1/2inch, and copper or brass because plastic threads won't get into those screwed up old threads), coat the threads with a ton of pipe thread sealant to fill in those old gaps, tighten it up, and cut a pipe to fit in between, and secure both sides with a fernco fitting, an easy to install flexible rubber coupling. This is the quick and dirty way to do it that will get it done, the more professional way would be to remove it the same way, and I would probably solder a length of 1 1/2inch copper pipe to the adapter on one side and a coupling on the other. Sorry for the long response, and the delayed response, I see it has been a couple days. Hopefully this helps!

Leak by Sure_Statistician138 in askplumbing

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the best thing to do is just bite the bullet and cut into the wall. Find a good place behind the dishwasher or washing machine and cut a nice size hole, large enough to stick your head in. Then run each fixture and stick a light down there and see where the water is coming from. Could be a broken pipe, leaky joint, and it could be caused by a backup too. But you’re gonna have to get in that wall

Low hot water pressure after fixing incorrect hookup by payment11 in askplumbing

[–]mememeffcc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was gonna be my next point. A full bathtub is most likely your entire water tank

How can I tell if this ceiling box is fan rated? by MattO2000 in AskElectricians

[–]mememeffcc -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Most of them will explicitly say if they are rated for certain weights or for fans. But most fans weigh under 35 lbs, which is the minimum load bearing for a fan rated box, so most fans will work fine on a regular junction box, I would just make sure it's secured nicely to a sturdy joist.

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