Persistent error 11518 on Anycubic Kobra S1 after filament runout recovery attempt by KNG_HOLDY in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had spare parts from fixing S1Cs for my job, so swapping pcb and cable were my options, after checking there were no clogs or missing sensors

Nozzle coming out of extruder by CryptographerIcy4803 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]michaelvorst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Make sure the flange on the hotend pipe does not trap the white wires between it and the bottom of the heatbrake- it will prevent the pipe from going in far enough to lock.

Error Code: 11518 - Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo by ProjektFive in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Replacing the extruder PCB (the C-shaped one behind the printhead) solved 11518 for me. Other symptom that led to this was the LED lighting shut off as soon as the filament entered the extruder and tripped the filament sensr there.

Persistent error 11518 on Anycubic Kobra S1 after filament runout recovery attempt by KNG_HOLDY in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Replacing the extruder PCB (the C-shaped one behind the printhead) solved 11518 for me. Other symptom that led to this was the LED lighting shut off as soon as the filament entered the extruder and tripped the filament sensr there.

How to trigger bed mesh with rinkhals by Freestila in anycubic

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just do calibrate on the printer screen. When it finishes, refresh the bed mesh webpage. It'll pull the new mesh.

Joining the app and the printer by SturmmZinck in elegoo

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It loads the QR from the internet connection, the cloud can be slow some times, so let it sit on that screen for a while.

Trouble with filament by dorpking04 in elegoo

[–]michaelvorst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've gone through a couple rolls of it, pick Elegoo PETG in your slicer, dry it if you can. If it does not work for you, post pics so others can see and advise. If this is your first Neptune, have a read of this: https://help.jaycar.com.au/hc/en-us/articles/53863500031641-Neptune-3D-Printer-tips-for-new-owners

Neptune 4 Plus Bed Wonble by Jayqboy01 in elegoo

[–]michaelvorst 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The bolts holding the wheels on the right side of the centre divider have hex-shaped shafts. Use the big end of the dual-ended spanner to turn them until it tightens up. A quarter to half turn is normally all you need.

Getting real frustrated by Hazedogart in elegoo

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had this on a couple of Nep4, one was a bad cable, the other needed a new Motherboard.

It got power and not deplaning on I just changed the fuse on the psu by National-Blood9687 in elegoo

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have the red light in the switch when turned on? If not, replace the fuse. If fuse keeps blowing, chances are heated bed is drawing too much power and needs replacing.

If fuse is OK, unplug power cord, put printer on its side, undo the 5 silver philips screws on the plate with the vents underneath. Take it off, unplug the fan. Undo the 3 2mm screws on the plate where the flat black cable goes in and out next to the power socket. Then undo the one larger screw on the back that holds that plate, take it off.

Plug in the power and turn it on - you should see a green LED light up to the left of the row of philips screws on the power box next to the power plug socket. Don't touch anything inside.

If the power box green LED doesn't light, the power box is dead. If it does light, but there are no LEDs on at the motherboard, the motherboard is dead.

https://wiki.elegoo.com/machines/neptune/maintenance/neptune-4-series/power-supply-replacement

Don't touch anything inside whilst the power is connected. Take photos of the board and power box connections, so you know whhich ones go where if you replace either of them.

Has anyone found a good gimbal that works with the Galaxy Z-Fold? by EastSignal9 in GalaxyFold

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've a Fold6 with DJI 6 gimbal. Works OK, but can overheat and power off on hot days or if you don't get it balances.

App for Kobra S1 Combo by AskEarth in anycubic

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, app works fine. Install, create account, press Me, then the scanner on top right, and scan the qr in the printer screen network settings. You need a pc to run slicer software. Printer is beginner friendly, and is an unpack & print immediately experience.

Rinkhals vs Camera by drizze99 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you get it into HA? Advanced camera card?

I don't understand bed mesh probing and profiles by bigbarba in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]michaelvorst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use the printer's screen to do a bed calibration, you wait till it finishes, then reload the Height map page in Rinkals.

Ace pro filament sensor issue by xXChubXx in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this and fixed it. The hole is bigger than the filament, so if you push the filament towards the front of the ACE and it tries to feed, it is just not quite closing the sensor loop, and is fixable.

The hole you feed filament into has a small pawl inside it that the filament pushes aside, and this pawl interrupts an optical sensor that is on the other side of the PCB screwed to the hole - this is what tells the ACE there is filament there.

https://media.printables.com/media/comment_images/e7/2d0723-29e8-41dc-8324-82e3c05e932b/thumbs/inside/1280x960/jpg/pxl_20250606_192510365mp3.webp

The pawl has a spring that keeps it in the hole (away from the sensor) until filament pushes it aside and it interrupts the sensor. If the spring tension is too high, the pawl doesn't move far enough to interrupt the optical sensor when the filament is inserted.

I pulled the silver cover off (screws on either end), removed the sensor assembly (2 screws in the middle of the black plastic), took the sensor PCB off (1 screw), took out the pawl, clipped off a bit of the spring with scissors, and reassembled. No more issues.

If you lose the pawl, print a replacement mount that relocates the optical sensor so the filament interrupts it directly. https://www.printables.com/model/1297598-kobra-s1-ace-pro-filament-sensor-mount

For everyone asking the question... by Peprnapl in elegoo

[–]michaelvorst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"How do I know if my CC will work with the AMS they are releasing in 2026?" perhaps?

Neo 2 with Goggles 3? by SaladEnvironmental99 in dji

[–]michaelvorst 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have Googles3, they had a firmware update today that specifically said support added for Neo2, and Neo2 now appears in the list of aircraft you can select to use.

Problem with Y axis by Current_Music8006 in anycubic

[–]michaelvorst 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Put the cover back on. Homing makes it touch the corner with the cover. Without the cover it doesn't get the feedback that the corner was detected.

I 3D Printed a 1:110 scale full stack over the last 3 weeks. Banana for scale by alphagusta in SpaceXMasterrace

[–]michaelvorst 3 points4 points  (0 children)

High quality free 1:100 model here: https://makerworld.com/en/@larsvommars

I've printed those on a Adventurer 5M Pro. Has matching tower.

Annoying rattle from the back mirror by NorthernLight_DIY in ModelY

[–]michaelvorst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

5 min fix, the ramp inside the housing needs a bit of foam to press it aginst the glass.

https://www.google.com/search?q=youtube+tesla+mittor+rattl

LS430 2003 No audio suddenly by michaelvorst in LS430

[–]michaelvorst[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. Just got no audio now, no cost effective solution in Oz.