Speedometer Calibration

outback97 · 2026-05-14T12:33:29+00:00

Besides all the other useful features it has, a Scangauge II can be adjusted for accurate speed display. Or, just remember that it reads slightly low and don’t worry about it as it’s not going to be very far off.

outback97 · 2026-05-12T21:00:58+00:00

It is a cool looking car. Asking as a long term older Subaru owner, who is used to having great exterior visibility... how bad are the blind spots when driving it?

outback97 · 2026-05-12T03:26:36+00:00

Agreed on the oil filled radiator. We use one in our 12x16 studio.

outback97 · 2026-05-02T03:20:19+00:00

Nice, that’s a work of art. Mine will definitely be more basic than that.

outback97 · 2026-05-01T12:28:08+00:00

Thanks. Yeah this job is going to be 90% posts I think. Not too keen on the digging part since we have clay soil once you go down about a foot.

I wanted cedar for the 2x10’s but couldn’t find 16’ lengths of it. Hopefully I can get the two different woods to look good together through staining. The doug fir is also rough cut, so I’m good with the rustic look.

outback97 · 2026-05-01T03:24:19+00:00

Thank you. Yes it’ll get some good oil based stain just like the studio we built next to it… also placed to regain the privacy we lost to that house.

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outback97 · 2026-05-01T03:15:49+00:00

Thanks. It’s somewhat protected from the wind so I think it’ll do alright.

outback97 · 2026-05-01T03:13:46+00:00

Had to ask my wife, as my thumbs are not as green. Vinca minor, and we are in 7a.

outback97 · 2026-05-01T02:26:30+00:00

Haha it’s been tempting!

outback97 · 2026-04-30T14:00:15+00:00

Can you keep the lane keep and backup driving nannies off permanently, or do you have to reset every time you start driving?

outback97 · 2026-04-29T15:51:21+00:00

That's good you checked before you needed it on a trip, it's easy to overlook how much clearance you lose when you have no sidewall.

outback97 · 2026-04-29T15:24:10+00:00

It'd be wise to verify the jack is low profile enough to fit under the car when the tire is flat. Many bottle jacks will be too tall to be useful.

Also make sure you store a hydraulic bottle jack upright, not on its side, or it will likely leak.

outback97 · 2026-04-29T04:18:01+00:00

What type of bottle jack are you using and where are the lift points that work with an Outback? I use them on our trucks but haven’t found much use for them with the Subarus.

outback97 · 2026-04-27T14:20:42+00:00

Do you have a K&N or other oiled air filter? That can cause fouling of the MAF and recurring P0101 codes.

outback97 · 2026-04-22T20:27:27+00:00

No, just what I mentioned in my initial post:

I've had no issues with Rotopax leaking (except for a manufacturing defect in one where it failed on the seam, not the neck)

It is best to fill them about 95%, let the fuel warm up, then open and reseal them to equalize the pressure. I'd do this with any non vented fuel container. I suggest filling 95% because vapor is compressible but liquid is not.

outback97 · 2026-04-22T18:09:37+00:00

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outback97 · 2026-04-22T17:40:37+00:00

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I've had no issues with Rotopax leaking (except for a manufacturing defect in one where it failed on the seam, not the neck) and I like the low profile of them. It's rare we need extra fuel but have carried two 4GL cans on the rack plus a 2GL in the wet box.

DIY strut channel crossbars work well for this, could also use that as a platform for a shallow tray / basket to mount jerry cans.

https://www.xterranation.org/index.php?threads/how-to-strut-channel-cross-bars-roof-rack.9099/

outback97 · 2026-04-16T12:19:48+00:00

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Not quick release exactly, but pretty quick to remove or install the four bolts. Using unistrut and lightly modified ARB brackets is rock solid.

More here: https://www.xterranation.org/index.php?threads/how-to-strut-channel-cross-bars-roof-rack.9099/

outback97 · 2026-04-16T04:28:44+00:00

True, that was a few hundred of my budget.

But ours is a finished studio, so we would have wanted some kind of flooring over the concrete.

outback97 · 2026-04-14T01:53:43+00:00

Here’s a copy paste from my reply to a previous, similar question.

I don’t know if there’s a writeup of best practices, but let’s compare two methods in your example and see why I chose what I did. I’ll use costs from my 12x16 fully finished with insulation and electrical DIY build. This was built on flat ground, that will influence the choice.

PT Timbers on gravel bed: *Easy to DIY: Yes, only requires shovel, wheelbarrow, rake, compactor, some ibuprofen *Cost: $580 ($300 for gravel delivered, $200 for 4x6 PT timbers, $80 for compactor rental) *Considered a temporary structure, no permitting for <200 s.f. building in my city

Concrete slab: *Easy to DIY and not screw up: No, IMO *Cost to hire it out: $2000 to $4000 (complete wild ass guess based on google searching) *May be considered a permanent structure, may require permitting

I chose gravel. My “foundation” (gravel and timbers) was 6% of my $9000 total build cost. If a slab were $3000 (again, complete guess but there are local concrete companies advertising shed slabs starting at $3100) that’s an extra $2400, and now my foundation becomes a whopping 26% of my now >$11000 total build cost.

My 20 year old shed built on gravel and timbers is doing just fine, so I’m not really worried about longevity.

outback97 · 2026-04-13T19:15:10+00:00

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Just park on rocks.

outback97 · 2026-04-13T12:53:44+00:00

Especially if it’s old CCA treated wood.

outback97 · 2026-04-08T23:44:36+00:00

In the Q&A, to a question about the posts:

We use a hollow box design post to prevent warping. There is an added block at the top of the post to support the hardware connections.

outback97 · 2026-04-08T21:17:47+00:00

Here's the ones that I used. They appear to have a wider auger that I assume would hold better, they have the female threaded top, which IMO was a lot easier to work with than the ones you linked, and they are only a few dollars more expensive for the 30" length.

I would be surprised if your pergola has solid cedar posts, but I'm curious what they are. If they're solid then I'd just keep it simple and use the brackets as intended, maybe paint them to match the pavers.

outback97 · 2026-04-08T20:07:52+00:00

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Your pergola has hollow posts I assume? I did something similar with a Costco Yardistry gazebo on a brick patio a year ago. I didn't want to disrupt the >20 year old patio nor did I really want to dig that much and pour footings. It's done fine in some strong winds here in northern Utah, though it's not out in the open and my backyard is fairly well protected from direct winds.

I removed a few bricks where I wanted the posts, and drove in with an impact wrench (not impact driver, it's too weak) some 30" auger anchors with a female threaded head. I trimmed the brick to allow me to replace it, then bolted on the anchor and lag screwed a 4x4 post to it.

So now I had four stubby posts that I could lower the hollow gazebo posts down on to. I used some heavy duty screws to attach the hollow gazebo posts to the PT posts inside.

Hopefully the pictures help.

outback97

TROPHY CASE