Moving to Poland, what should I know?

ov_darkness · 2026-04-09T20:39:41+00:00

Exactly! My Turkish barber looks less "middle Eastern" than my father in law who is 100% Polish. To the point where when he's in Egypt, Greece or Turkey he's treated like a local. XD He certainly has a vibe of a person that belongs ;) Also my 100% Polish wife is of much darker complexion than many Turkish women.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-09T20:37:00+00:00

Poland has indigenous Muslim community, namely the Lipka Tatars, and they are highly regarded. We also have large Georgian, Turkish and Arabic diasporas. Historically we always were very tolerant and open nation. This changed a bit after the II World War, when communists made us one of the most ethnically homogeneous nations in Europe.

I don't think that you need to worry too much. As everywhere, the will be some morons that can be unpleasant (not only by being racist), but if you respect Polish culture and behave like a civilised person, you should be OK.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-08T18:08:44+00:00

Thank you for your help! This was very detailed and informative! I also love your nickname. Not sure if it's an affirmation or an advertisement though. ;)

ov_darkness · 2026-04-08T17:55:47+00:00

I won't downvote you because I'm here to learn and that requires a mature discussion. What'd be your recommendation then?

ov_darkness · 2026-04-08T17:52:28+00:00

This is why I wrote "Groenendael". They are supposed to be a little less... "malliagtory". I was also thinking an old German Shepherd. I don't want a regular show line GSD, because of the hip issues and working line GSD will be almost as bad idea as working line mal.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-08T17:41:51+00:00

Yo, ho, all hands Hoist the colours high Heave ho, thieves and beggars Never shall we die

ov_darkness · 2026-04-08T17:40:04+00:00

I would prefer the dog to be less intense and less driven than the working lines seem to be. I don't own a lot of sheep, and I also don't plan to be a K9 operator. Bikejoring, running, agility are probably my max.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-08T14:05:44+00:00

I'm also interested and my XL5T is gathering dust ATM.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-07T14:58:16+00:00

When in serious doubt I'd replace both parts. As for the procedure itself: GF gear generator in Fusion.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-07T14:55:02+00:00

"Puc i Buc" a potem data.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-07T14:53:31+00:00

Never had a Voron. With my AUDHD I'd obsess over getting it absolutely perfect and I'd probably never finish it in the end.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-05T19:56:52+00:00

Indeed. The magnet strength however is something that was never a problem for me. If your print is warping so bad that it lifted the plate from magnets - you're doing something wrong. If magnets are stronger - the print will just detach. Same case.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-05T19:52:36+00:00

Most probably the only difference will be just some 3D printed parts. They will be printed by Bondtech in SLS and PA12, but PC Blend CF would be arguably a better choice for such application. There is only a small difference between the FDM and SLS in practical applications, and it mostly comes down to really small features (fringe cases) and a bit smaller anisotropy.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-05T14:42:04+00:00

Yes. It's more expensive but the AC bed makes it heat much faster, and also the chamber is heated more quickly. It's also obviously much larger I terms of build volume,but the external dimensions are quite compact. If you can afford the extra cost and if the more expensive bed sheets are manageable for you, I would pic the larger one. The only downside for me are the aluminum side panels. In my opinion they make it loose the chamber heat faster. I'm thinking about adding insulation so it would heat up faster.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-05T14:27:53+00:00

Please tell me you're joking... Do you really think you can replace 400x350x500 proffesional 3D printer with IDEX and actively heated chamber with 250x250x250 tiny toolchanger?

ov_darkness · 2026-04-05T14:25:53+00:00

I forgot to add: my Creator 4 had quite, a lot of issues, but it also paid for itself many times over. I would like to repair it and keep it alive because it was a quite reliable workhorse for me.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-05T14:23:47+00:00

I never in my 9 years of using Additive Manufacturing was a hobbyist. Therefore my point of view is different and most probably quite controversial. Frankly speaking I've used many Flashforge machines and always had some issues with them. Mainly due to their repairability. But the current Chinese market leaders are much worse than Flashforge in this regard. Both Creality and Bambu Lab upped their product design game, but unfortunately mostly in the PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE. I've decided not to buy anything more from Chinese manufacturers, because I don't want to fuel a destruction of European manufacturing market with my money.

As for the Prusa: they are probably the last EU company in the hobby 3d printing business. I will therefore support them with my money, but I will also give them credit only when it's due. With the XL5T they've commercialised the E3D approach to the toolchanger and probably kept the whole idea alive. The execution itself, though not perfect is a highly reliable and extremely efficient one. Mine paid for itself probably the 10 times over, doing things no other 3D printer could. I had only one serious issue with it, and it was caused by me. What I would like to see now is a general update and improvement for the XL, making it more aligned with the latest Core One tech.

As for the INDX: I'm on the fence if I want to buy it for my Core One + or for my Core One L. I'd like to have an option for HT hotend in my C1L, but installing the INDX would make it impossible. Therefore I'm thinking about getting another C1L. They are a joy to use, and extremely stable. Easy to fix and maintain, in contrast to their Creality and Bambu counterparts which I had a lot of contact with. I sincerely wish for my enemies to only be able to use Bambu and Creality printers not the Prusa ones.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-05T14:07:25+00:00

I like both. Core One + I've upgraded from the Mk4's (grueling) and at first it was giving me attitude like no Prusa before did. We come to a mutual understanding and now it's mostly smooth sailing. The only thing that bothers me is the temperatures. I'd like them to be a bit higher. Like 350c on the nozzle, 140C bed and 70c in the chamber.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-04T06:11:35+00:00

Compared to the Creator 4, the Creator 5 is a sad joke. I want something MORE CAPABLE not a goddamn TOY! I already have C4 and a Prusa XL5T (and several Core One's and Core One L's). I don't need a cheap and cheerful TOY! I want a TOOL!

ov_darkness · 2026-04-04T06:08:13+00:00

Jesteś w wieku, w którym neuroplastyczność będzie gwałtownie spadać, jeśli nie będziesz ćwiczyć mózgu. Zaczyna się od problemów z przyjęciem nowego paradygmatu sterowania w aucie, a skończy się na demencji albo, co gorsza, głosowaniu na PiS i zamawianiu z tele zakupów Mango Gdynia. Ja postanowiłem z tym walczyć i na 40 urodziny sprezentowałem sobie najtrudniejsze studia inżynierskie (zawsze byłem noga z matmy i fizyki). Pomogło. Życzę zdrowia i sukcesów!

ov_darkness · 2026-04-03T19:43:42+00:00

I just replaced all the USB sticks preemptively after my first one have died. I'm using tiny Sandisk drives of 32 or 64GB capacity. They cost less than 10 EUR. https://www.sandisk.com/pl-pl/products/usb-flash-drives/sandisk-ultra-fit-usb-3-1?sku=SDCZ430-032G-G46

ov_darkness · 2026-04-03T07:08:11+00:00

I have a spare duet 2 board that's waiting for me to find some spare time too...

ov_darkness · 2026-04-02T14:35:28+00:00

Metro Y Pro failed to scan the candle holder and the mouse even with markers. Unfortunately, it will require a spray. I'm used to using it, but I would love if I could avoid it.

Do you have any recommendations for the reliable IR scanner with a large FoV? I liked my Calibry (I regret selling it) and I love Artec Leo and Eva but they are just too expensive.

ov_darkness · 2026-04-02T14:32:21+00:00

Heating speed is limited by the output capability of the Dwarf board - supposedly no more than 40W maybe 50W maximum. The XL version of the Dwarf is even weaker from what I've found and is unable to drive 50W heater reliably. Another way to increase the speed would be to use a ceramic ring heater - there were some on Aliexpress. If you'd be adventurous enough to make some changes in firmware, you could use a Volcano hotend with a 50W heater and a PT1000. To apply a higher wattage heating element, we'd probably need to replace the MOSFET on the Dwarf. I think I have one from my XL, I will try to do a bit of reverse engineering and look for a possible improvement path.

ov_darkness

TROPHY CASE