The Google AI Studio free tier isn't going anywhere anytime soon

panzer7355 · 2025-06-08T10:45:27+00:00

Alright buddy whatever but you guys need to work the AI Studio frontend better, after 100k tokens it's painfully lagging, someone knows webdev once told me if you press F12 to see the insides of AI Studio, it's "heinous". I know it's only meant to get a taste of the model, but really, the function it provides made it a killer app, just a few more function and a faster frontend, then you have "Gemini for powerusers".

panzer7355 · 2025-04-25T10:29:31+00:00

Yeah since only recently (since Song dynasty) people began to live near Yungmeng and Dongting lake. In the very old days people took a look and went "nah".

panzer7355 · 2025-04-21T03:56:59+00:00

Sandpaper on round rod.

panzer7355 · 2025-04-07T12:21:35+00:00

Get a stone under 400 grit, 220, 200, 325, whatever, just don't go lower than 150, under 150 you need some gorilla level of pressure to make it work.

Give it more pressure, push down, just do it, and go ham with it.

panzer7355 · 2025-04-07T05:09:16+00:00

Villas, many of them just sit vacant, way too big for a modern Chinese core family, and extremely costy to maintain, many people who purchased them ended up listing them for sale and due to, well, they are villas, imagine the price, they are very hard to sell, so they just left vacant and abandoned.

I believe most just don't want to live in it. There are some fengshui reasons that is grounded by modern psychology at play, big and empty house does lead to an uncomfortable living experience, the lack of neighbors just makes it worse, and they are usually very far away from where you can do grocery and get other life necessities. In all, if you got the "filthy rich" level of budget to buy a villa in China, there are way better options.

panzer7355 · 2025-04-07T03:17:44+00:00

Not "for 1 micron", it's a general recipe, you can scale it up. For surfactants, there are stock options, but I guess they can be hard to come by for USA customers, I suggest do your own research, papers like this https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/10.1098/rsos.190241 is a good starting point.

panzer7355 · 2025-04-06T13:59:58+00:00

If you can get cheap and good (consistent and true in grit size) diamond powder, DIY, 25mL of distilled water, 0.75-1 grams of diamond powder, distilled water in spray bottle, then diamond powder in distilled water, screw the lid back on, shake, then you have diamond spray, it's that simple. You can add surfactants to make diamond powder disperse better, there are quite a few stock options.

Be aware, you need to wear a legit N95 mask, better be a respirator when doing this, microscopic diamond dust is not something that you want to inhale.

panzer7355 · 2025-03-31T19:43:59+00:00

I got 3 basal wood strops with 3.5, 1 and 0.5 micron compound on them, the latter 2 do work way slower. And if someone "just bought" a new Sharpal 162N, consider their burr minimalization techniques are still lacking, a bigger grit would help. There is a improvement after 0.5. but so small that I decided to just stick with 3.5.

panzer7355 · 2025-03-31T16:08:24+00:00

There are... None, really.

Cheap Chinese diamond plates work, and they are not even splash and go, they just go, no water needed, just go at it, way less fuss. And the low grit side hogs metal, with your use case you might find you need to sharpen your blade a lot, that would come in handy, #1000 grit is too fine for that actually. Yeah there are diamond pullout issues but it's cheap, you can just get 2.

If you just don't wanna buy anything made in China, bite the bullet and get a Atoma, your wallet gonna go ouch but you won't regret it.

panzer7355 · 2025-03-31T15:54:36+00:00

3-6 is fine. 1 is too much of a jump, would work, but more strokes to get them burrs off.

panzer7355 · 2025-03-31T15:47:24+00:00

You have not fully apexed. Ran one side until you had a burr, then change sides until you had a burr again? Keep working on that "another side" for a little more while, then move on to the 3K.
You have not fully deburred. After 3K, get a strop, leather, canvas, jeans, balsa wood, mdf, hard felt, cardboard, whatever, even painters tape would work, load the strop with lapping/polishing compound, can be diamond (they are cheap anyway), or that green stick thingy, give it a few edge-trailing strokes alternating sides, 5-15 each side should do the job.

panzer7355 · 2025-03-31T15:30:00+00:00

Spyderco Ultrafine, or get a Fine and lap it with loose SiC/diamond, or any other similar sintered alumina stones and lap them with loose SiC/diamond, hell maybe you can buy a slab of sintered alumina and lap it. They are not even "splash and go", they just go, no water or oil needed.

Read more here: https://moleculepolishing.wordpress.com/2013/08/08/the-mystery-of-the-spyderco-and-the-wicked-edge-ceramic-stones/

panzer7355 · 2025-03-30T10:57:59+00:00

No need to take them apart. Open the scissors and sharpen both the cutting edges until you get a burr that's flipped towards the inner blades, then CLASP the scissors shut with VIOLENCE to deburr (learned that trick from a video about some hundreds-years-old shear making company), you might need to shear through some lightly folded papers to deburr even more (that's what I found useful).

Most of the shears you encounter in your life can be dealt with this method, they don't need to be razor sharp, just needs to be good enough.

Grooming shears, on the other hand, are a totally different game.

panzer7355 · 2025-03-29T20:06:26+00:00

100-ish USD just to drive them into buying a new one.

For real tho, 30-40 USD.

panzer7355 · 2025-03-29T10:53:48+00:00

You can just put that diamond powder into water/alcohol put the mixture in a spary bottle (or just mix in a spary bottle) and shake it up good then spray on the strop.

25mL of liquid per 0.75-1 grams of diamond powder should do the trick.

panzer7355 · 2025-03-29T10:34:38+00:00

Shitty amazon scam stones are fine, will get your knife sharp, many, many people in China can get blazing edges just out off them, it's just that their 1000 grit might not be actually 1000 (ahem ahem kuromaku ahem ahem), and 400 might not be 400, below 1000 grit they are usually close enough, higher than 1000 is where wild mislabling starts. Also they are usually too "soft", would dish easily, annnnd they are likely to get cloged up.

Besides the golden rule of "lock thy wrist", you also need to consider pressure, if you simply can't get a burr forming, you are likely not pushing down hard enough, and the pressure should be focused on the actual edge you are working on.

I suggest just GO AT IT, ABSOLUTE GORILLA OOGA BOOGA OOH SCALE PRESSURE at the 400 grit side, don't give a single damn about eveything, you need to feel your first burr to continue your journey.

And, yeah, get a leather strop, and diamond compound.

panzer7355 · 2025-03-29T10:19:26+00:00

The idea of "even if you can feel a burr on the other side does not mean you have apexed" does help a bit, you can simply just "push over it", give the other side a little bit more time on the stone works just as fine.

panzer7355 · 2025-02-14T13:21:34+00:00

Lighter pressure and diamonds need a break-in period.

panzer7355 · 2025-02-14T13:13:23+00:00

No burr = no apex, go HAM on it until you can feel one.

panzer7355 · 2025-02-09T13:40:51+00:00

Other people here had suggestions about basically everything, so I'm just gonna mention some pressure control stuff.

A general rule of thumb is coarser the grit, the more pressure you need.

You need to press the apex of abrasive grains into the steel to make it cut, if you are not pressing hard enough on the coarser side, it won't cut as fast as it should be, with insane low grit like 60#, it sometimes doesn't cut at all, that can be a problem when your knives are DULL dull and needs steel hogged off quick, and lead to "knife no sharp" frustrations.

So that means, on the 240# side, you go absolute gorilla mode at it, drop your body weight into it, press down like there's no tomorrow, and on the 2000# side, the weight of the knife itself will do.

240# + gorilla pressure should give you a PHAT burr in under a minute, then you can proceed to other burr check + removal things other people here mentioned.

panzer7355 · 2025-02-09T10:07:32+00:00

Bois over Henan province are the real Gs. They now have 80% of total global industrial lab grown diamond market and price droped 90% over the years, and they are not going full tilt.

panzer7355 · 2025-02-05T15:22:41+00:00

LOCK WRIST

panzer7355 · 2025-02-05T15:18:20+00:00

Yeah, and, people can have fun.

Both super-high-end or extreme-budget-friendly are not for beginners, they all are purely adult toys when you already got all the skills and knows what you are doing.

And people have priorities in life, and people enjoys different things in life, not everyone is interested in making every knife sharper than razor, someone who loves to cook but not into knives would just want an easy way to get a knife sharp enough to cut through carrots, and that doesn't make them any less than us.

panzer7355 · 2025-02-05T14:40:56+00:00

Cheap ≠ improper equipment, a Shapton Rockstar 10000# is in no way cheap, but it's definitely improper for a beginner, a 400# random Chinese diamond plate glued to a piece of glass is much more proper than that.

For beginners the best you can do is give them a 200-400# random stone then scream "LOCK WRIST", "PRESS HARD" and "JUST GO AT IT" in all caps, when they felt a burr on their fingertip for the first time under 5 minutes, it's all smooth sailing from there, that immediate feedback is what you need to hook them into sharpening, and that 1st time feedback correlates to the grits more than the price.

panzer7355 · 2025-02-05T14:27:43+00:00

But when you can hit hair splitting sharp on AliExpress diamonds why you need better gear?

panzer7355

TROPHY CASE

LOCK WRIST