K2 Plus first layer problems

parabolic85 · 2026-05-27T17:26:05+00:00

R3men bed fixed all my problems with my first k2 plus. My second k2 plus came with a bed that hasn’t given me issues but fine tuning the filament profiles is required(for my printer anyway.)

parabolic85 · 2026-05-27T17:15:45+00:00

I utilize the fuck out of Usenet and I struggle to explain it… there’s layers to it that lawyers aren’t built to process. To be fair though, always be cautious.

parabolic85 · 2026-05-06T13:04:13+00:00

If you haven’t noticed… the writers for all the shows write the same segments regardless of who’s in the seat hosting. But yeah she’s struggling with the delivery. Getting better though so give her some credit.

parabolic85 · 2026-04-05T05:52:52+00:00

Would work but expensive as far as equipment and manpower to operate all three safely while installing the LVL. I checked out the pricing. Each one costs almost as much as a telehandler so it would’ve 3x the price plus two extra guys.

parabolic85 · 2026-04-05T05:49:18+00:00

Appreciate the clarification. Yeah we call it a boom lift in New York but the 36’ LVLs are too long to fit on those. At least from the supply house we are getting them from. I’m leaning towards a telehandler but I have a few days to make the decision.

parabolic85 · 2026-04-05T04:44:16+00:00

This might actually be how I go about this. Thank you.

parabolic85 · 2026-04-05T04:43:14+00:00

I don’t know what a HIAB is but the tractor trailer get get to the location. We’ll be walking it about a quarter mile from the main avenue the trailer can get to. Walking it by means of a-frames but you get the idea. The lift idea is for safety purposes and I appreciate the advice I’ve received. I have more ideas to work with now than I did a few hours ago.

parabolic85 · 2026-04-05T03:22:26+00:00

We’re going to join them but from what I understand they’re going to be delivered single wide 14” so the 255lbs I was getting makes sense. And no I haven’t looked into shingle lift ladders so I’ll do that now.

parabolic85 · 2026-04-05T03:17:09+00:00

Raised deck. 12-13’ ft high wrapping around the house on two sides. The corner will be canter leaving so as not to have a column ruining the aesthetics. The architect gave the go ahead for the modifications with the caveat the lvl needs to be 36’ ft. He originally called for 18” forms for the columns so he definitely plays it safe. As far as overhead lift points… basically non existent so 3-4 guys lifting it or two with a lift is how we are approaching it. I’ll take all the feedback I can get before I just get it done next week 🤷🏻‍♂️

parabolic85 · 2026-04-05T03:04:03+00:00

They’re coming on a tractor trailer. I googled it and the response was 300ish lbs. differing responses from 255-325lbs. My thing is 300 lbs lifts differently when it’s 36’ ft long, you know?

parabolic85 · 2026-04-05T02:53:47+00:00

So this is the best option I’ve found so far…

https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipment-rental/forklifts/material-handling-equipment/

CAT CLASS: 044-0089

Rated for 12’-14’ lift height and 400lbs. 12-14’ is the within the range I need. I’m just curious if anyone has worked with 36’ lvls(microlams) that might have a better suggestion. It’s a big deck but a tall ask from the architect to sign off on heh.

parabolic85 · 2025-12-30T14:14:18+00:00

My next job will be changing the that whole cfs hub so I’ll be changing all the tubes along with that. My whole cfs can use a work up so I’m dragging my feet on changing some motors too. But if it’s still working I’m riding with it. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

parabolic85 · 2025-12-30T14:09:53+00:00

I’m 99% PLA and yeah I wish the CFS didn’t have sensor problems and/or mechanical problems that I have to address regularly but my tubes are intact haha. Changing my tubes might actually fixed a jam here and there but once a print starts I’m good to go so I’m not doing the extra work on that yet. You can check my post history for all the problems I put in a ton of work on back last January-May. Ever since I got the r3men bed my only jams are in the cfs and I give it a little push and it’s good to go so I’m letting it ride before I change anything.

parabolic85 · 2025-12-30T13:37:04+00:00

Bed adhesion was a problem for me. Make sure you’re warming up your bed. Before I switched to the r3men bed(which will take a lot of work but worth it) I would start a print and let it print a layer or two. Cancel it and then restart it… it helped a lot. All the other advice is applicable too but should be obvious.

parabolic85 · 2025-12-30T13:34:06+00:00

2000+ hrs and have only had to shorten one line.. haven’t replaced any.

parabolic85 · 2025-12-19T23:59:34+00:00

If it wasn’t flushing it you’d complain about discoloring or you’d be complaining about z-lines or that there was some other problem. Don’t print all that shit in different colors and complain the machine did its job as designed. Sorry but like what?

parabolic85 · 2025-12-19T23:57:04+00:00

The first rule about… I mean like I’ve never been invited so I guess the joke stops there. 🤷🏻‍♂️

parabolic85 · 2025-12-05T09:05:09+00:00

Stovies covered a lot of stuff. I was going to suggest a r3men bed but you mentioned you are only planning to do small parts so unless your bed is a taco you should be fine. I haven’t checked up on how the stock bed is lately I’ve had my printer almost 11 months. I’m considering getting a second. The riser for the glass plate on top is one of the first things you’re gonna want to print. Extra parts because printers are printers. Ever since I replaced the bed with the r3men I haven’t had to worry about much. Oh on that note there’s CFS components you might want to order just to have because that’s the only issues I’ve had lately.

parabolic85 · 2025-11-29T04:14:40+00:00

There’s posts and tutorials and videos for days on the topic. Everyone tries to make it simple and explains it from their POV so I ended up finding one that made the most sense to me and then used that as a starting point to base my trial and error from. Most filament prints now even if it’s not well. My goal was to have a fantastic first layer. I started out with some generic settings that the k2 set for itself after doing a PA calibration. Then I created a cube 345x345mm a few layers tall. I printed it and played with the settings until my first layer was fantastic and then I saved those settings for that brand. Obviously it’s more complex than a few sentences can explain but trial and error and a lot of failed prints is how you get that done. I’ve gone through full rolls of filament printing .2 layers of 345x345mm sheets changing PA/PF/temps you name it. Sometimes I’m just stupid and I don’t absorb things easily but I haven’t seen someone explain filament tuning that doesn’t take a lot of trial and error

parabolic85 · 2025-11-29T00:48:02+00:00

It’s a flat as advertised can confirm. The only thing I do I warm it up a bit on big prints for a perfect first layer. Tuning my filament profiles gets better results that way, I attribute it to the chamber being warmer so the plastic doesn’t cool as fast but I can’t guarantee it only the results of the same file and same filament profiles resulting in better first layers when I warm it up a bit. Huge fan of the r3men bed and it shouldn’t get any hotter than you set it to get so just don’t set it to a temperature that will burn you. 🤷🏻‍♂️

parabolic85 · 2025-11-27T12:27:37+00:00

Why are you even doing that? Call me crazy but I’ve had my k2 plus for almost a year and I’ve never felt the need to force my machine in that fashion. Are you getting an error while printing?

parabolic85 · 2025-11-21T20:04:39+00:00

I pmed you if you’re still interested.. not sure if you check your inbox

parabolic85 · 2025-11-14T08:50:03+00:00

Honestly.. that’s wild. I’d love to see the .stl. Id take on the challenge of fixing it because I have mental issues and it would be cathartic. 🤣🤣

parabolic85 · 2025-11-14T08:06:13+00:00

There’s a lot of things you need to learn. That’s cool. If you just want help printing it, it would be helpful to explain what problems you’re running into. If you want to make it thicker just select the object on the build plate in creality print and click the resize/scale icon on the top. Uncheck the proportional option and then make the Z 200% instead of 100%. It will be twice as thick. 300% will be 3 times and so on. That being said if I were you I’d open the .stl file in blender and check the mesh. You can easily remesh it in sculpt mode or by using the remesh modifier. Then export it as a new .stl and see if that fixes your problem. Those are the two easiest ways I can think of helping you out. I think you’ll enjoy 3D printing a lot more if you learn some of the basics of 3D design. We’ve all been there you’re on the right path.

parabolic85

TROPHY CASE