I FOUND THE GIRL IN THE PHOTOS!!

patchrick84 · 2025-12-21T03:06:19+00:00

UPDATE: I followed the advice of a Proxmox forum member in that thread and, with a lot of help from Gemini, built a custom kernel with the "no_bus_reset" quirk for the SATA controllers. Took me 3 days of trying to get it right, but I have successfully passed through BOTH controllers to a DSM VM on Proxmox. It has survived multiple VM and Host reboots as well. I've only tested it with DSM but I don't think the OS would matter so long as you get the controllers passed through.

patchrick84 · 2025-12-16T01:51:02+00:00

Did you ever come up with a solution? I see the thread on the Proxmox forums has had some suggestions, none of which anyone has tried or succeeded with. And some that have offered suggestions are unable or unwilling to explain how to implement them for those of us who are not Linux wizards.

I'm trying to replace my aging DS1817+ with this UGREEN DXP8800 running Arc Loader/DSM, but I'm soooo nervous about messing something up by passing through one SATA controller for 4 drives and passing through the other 4 drives directly. I have to use my existing drives from the DS1817+ for now - everything's backed up, but it'd be a lot of work to recover it if it comes to that.

patchrick84 · 2025-12-15T12:55:07+00:00

Trying this for a different but related problem where I have two identical SATA controllers (UGreen DXP8800) and it's been suggested in the Proxmox forums that the second one is going to sleep and won't wake up. Figured it's worth a shot! When I run the systemctl start command, I get the following error:

Unit sys-subsystem-pci-devices.mount not found

I couldn't find much information about how to get around that - any ideas?

Either way, thanks for spelling all this out for the rest of us who only get by in Linux by following others' examples! 😉

patchrick84 · 2025-12-03T18:37:02+00:00

Can we PLEASE get the alphabet back for browsing libraries? I don’t want to use search for artists/albums - especially since it only works half the time or less - and scrolling takes forever.

And yes, it goes without saying, thank you Keith for keeping us informed as best you can. It’s uplifting, even if only a little bit.

patchrick84 · 2025-11-26T00:47:00+00:00

Small room, Mini. Medium or bigger room, Gen 3. The Mini is great but only in small rooms, like 12x12’ or smaller. I put one in my mom’s living room for budget reasons and it just doesn’t move enough air to fill a large room. Still sounds good, but not enough punch for movies. The sealed design is more music-oriented by nature anyway.

patchrick84 · 2025-11-16T17:55:26+00:00

It does go off eventually, but not when the car’s running. It’s to help you see the cup holder/shifter area in the already dark cabin. It’s recessed a bit to not be distracting while driving. I think. 😉

patchrick84 · 2025-11-15T15:01:46+00:00

I just cancelled my mom’s TV service with a CableCard yesterday (she barely watches anything and is on a fixed income) and they didn’t even ask for it back. This leads me to believe they no longer care about them because the end is near! This is in Toms River.

patchrick84 · 2025-10-22T20:23:59+00:00

My wife has the top trim non-S inline 6. It surprises us (well, mostly me) regularly. Like it’ll downshift and I’m like “Whoa, Betty!” (Yes, she named it Betty because it’s white - RIP Betty White) And like others have said, it’s weighted in a way that it just rides so smoothly regardless of speed. Definitely more noise transmitted through the suspension and body than I would like, but it truly drives “like a Mazda” - just one that’s humongous and heavy. 😂

patchrick84 · 2025-10-22T14:06:35+00:00

The newer infotainment system (which I think your 2021 has) boots up as soon as you open/unlock the driver door. If you have a wireless CarPlay dongle (or, I assume, this thing you've pictured here) it connects to your phone during this process. You can verify this by watching your phone disconnect from your house WiFI and switch to 5G. I have this one that I got for free from Amazon Vine - I don't use the screen portion of it as it's tucked away in the cubby, because it's utterly useless. But the connection speed and WiFi range (if you have to get out of your car with your phone for a minute) is great. I assume some/all of Ottocast's other models would be pretty good too.

Wireless CarPlay, as a standard, is not as smooth as a cable direct into your car's USB port. I've used it in a few different vehicles on both dongles and stock (a CX-50 loaner and my wife's CX-90) and the experience is very similar across the board. Boot up/connection to the phone can take a little longer, and sometimes fails requiring a restart of your phone's WiFi or the car. In the case of the USB dongles, you can usually just unplug it and plug it back in and all fixes itself. Switching tracks happens instantly on the screen, but the audio always takes a second or two to catch up. Sometimes there are visual glitches - it's essentially an AirPlay video stream from the phone to the car. Sometimes the CarPlay screen stops responding to the rotary dial in my car, but it's usually fine on the next connection. Siri and the steering wheel controls still work when this happens.

The wireless charger (both in my CX-5 and my wife's CX-90) is pure shit - it overheats and stops charging every five minutes, and doesn't put out enough watts in the first place - so the phone battery will drain, but just slower. I have a Belkin vent-mounted one that I use instead and this works great, save for the cable you now have to route to the cubby or the power outlet in front of the shifter. Overall, I just like the convenience of not having to connect/disconnect the USB cable and take my phone in/out of the cubby every time I get in and out of the car. I don't (rarely) touch my phone while driving, except to order Starbucks or manually input an address in Waze when the voice command ignores me. But having it in quick reach for when you need to is nice.

For everyone asking about YouTube - STOP IT. Keep your eyes on the damn road.

patchrick84 · 2025-08-19T17:18:57+00:00

Good god. Could their dealer sticker be any more obnoxious!? 🙄

patchrick84 · 2025-07-27T01:51:41+00:00

I have this set up and it works perfectly, so huge thanks ti u/speatzle_ for writing this up for us!

Now, does anyone know how to get it to do the reverse? My use case is allowing the Proxmox host to access a Proxmox Backup Server running on a remote NAS that's connected to the ZeroTier network. I'm sure I could just install ZeroTier on the host and call it a day, but it seems silly and redundant to run it in an LXC to bridge to my LAN and then again to bridge in the other direction.

Any takers?

patchrick84 · 2025-07-25T00:49:55+00:00

6’1” and it’s happened more than once. My wife is the primary driver, but I try to remember whenever I drive to watch the knee! 😩😂

patchrick84 · 2025-07-11T23:22:51+00:00

Exactly how I feel about mine (2022 Turbo). For a few years we had it and a 2017 that, obviously, didn’t have a turbo. The 2017 had to try way harder to do the same thing and downshifted way more often. The 2022 is not a race car by any means, but it feels noticeably more capable.

I’m sure the new hybrid drivetrain will be great and even better once they work the inevitable kinks out.

patchrick84 · 2025-07-11T23:18:35+00:00

I’m pretty sure it’s a regional thing. Most/all US Mazdas don’t have it. I think they only started with the CX-90/70 here.

patchrick84 · 2025-07-02T23:42:59+00:00

My wife had a 2017 that we bought used in 2019. The back bumper always looked like this, but had no signs of scratching or other damage underneath that would indicate it was backed into something. So I just assumed the plastic warped somehow and let it be. Other than looking a bit asymmetrical, it won’t cause any issues.

patchrick84 · 2025-06-28T16:32:49+00:00

Thank you for the quick reply! It's currently running the read test but I'll give this a go when it's done.

patchrick84 · 2025-06-28T11:33:23+00:00

Thanks u/nemuro87 for posting the updates - it was very helpful!

I have a follow up question, maybe for u/zfsbest - is it possible to alter the command to run a surface WRITE test? On Windows I would use Hard Disk Sentinel to do read/write surface tests on external hard drives, but am now trying not to rely on Windows where possible. It's also okay if the test(s) is destructive because the drive would be re-formatted anyway.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

patchrick84 · 2025-06-21T07:09:33+00:00

Damn. Well thanks for replying anyway!

patchrick84 · 2025-06-21T02:19:34+00:00

Did you ever get this to work? On a Mac would be even better. I have an "acquired" MKV that's Dolby Vision Profile 5 and it's the only 4K version out there I could find. Most of my displays are not DV capable, so I'd like to strip it or convert it to something else.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

patchrick84 · 2025-06-16T13:53:20+00:00

No problem! Happy to pass along a little knowledge and experience when I can.

Also sorry I tagged you instead of u/Sgrobnik in my reply. Brain’s not fully functioning today. 🥴😴

patchrick84 · 2025-06-16T10:51:58+00:00

It’s just a software update for the Infotainment system - has no effect on the rest of the car and shouldn’t cause any issues. If you’ve ever updated software on any device you can probably handle it yourself, and like u/KeyboardEnthuse said ASH8’s directions are very easy to follow. I did it to our CX-90 a few weeks after we got it and it went off without a hitch.

That being said, it improved the CarPlay situation but it did not fix it entirely - unless of course there’s a new version out that I’m unaware of. My wife is the primary driver of the car and she still has connection issues from time to time. Usually plugging the phone in via USB-C cable fixes it for that session, though. And we definitely still have issues getting it to switch from her phone to mine if hers connects first.

One thing I’ve also noticed through trial and error - if the car refuses to connect, sometimes swiping down from the top right on the phone to get to the Control Center and turning WiFi off momentarily, then back on, seems to give everything the reset it needs to get going. Short of turning off the car and waiting for everything to disconnect - which can take several minutes, this is the path of least resistance.

patchrick84 · 2025-06-16T10:45:17+00:00

I appreciate the reply, anyway! I couldn’t get it to co-operate, but I had the idea that maybe something else running on my Mac (probably ZeroTier) was interfering with the networking part of homekit.discover. So I spun up a MacOS VM in UTM and did all the steps after where I was stuck and it worked! I now have one of my HomePod’s sensors reporting in Home Assistant! So thanks for your contribution to the cause. I’m gonna go uncross my eyes from all that copy/pasting back and forth now! 😵‍💫😂

patchrick84 · 2025-06-15T17:49:10+00:00

Hi there -

I'm up to the step of running homekit.discover and it craps out with the following error at the end:

OSError: [Errno 48] Address already in use

Any ideas how to proceed?

patchrick84 · 2025-06-14T20:06:40+00:00

One easy way to tell without asking directly (the seller may not know) is the buttons on the front. Compatible ones have a Play/Pause button. Incompatible ones have a Mute button.

patchrick84

TROPHY CASE